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Texas Romantic Getaway: Round Top
Recommended for: shopping, country getaway, B&Bs, music, history

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Imagine starting your day in a two-story cabin. You and your loved one are snuggled beneath a down comforter in an attic room lit with windows that have seen a century of Texas sunrises. After a country breakfast, you sit on the porch and watch as Texas’s smallest town slowly wakes up. Later that day, you shop for antiques, tour a historic village, then dine on shrimp marinara or grilled red snapper. Finally, the day draws to an end with a production of Shakespeare, performed in a barn deep in the Texas countryside.

This is Round Top, population 81. A favorite getaway for Houstonians, this village is a marriage of country charm and city culture, a place where you can bicycle on quiet backroads and enjoy a concert by a world-class pianist performed in a grand hall reminiscent of a European cathedral all in the same day.

That talent has made Round Top a shopping hotspot for Texans who are looking for quality antiques and a country getaway. They park their cars downtown and enjoy walking from shop to shop; almost every store is located on the square or just one block away. One of the longest running shops on the Square is the Round Top General Store (979-249-3600). Since 1848, this two-story structure has met the needs of Round Top area residents by serving as a hardware store, grocery store, barber shop, funeral home, and even a hotel. Today it’s a shop once again, but one specializing in antiques and collectibles.

Round Top is best known as the home of Festival Hill (TX 237, 5 blocks north of Henkel Square, 979-249-3129), the brainchild of pianist James Dick. Started about 25 years ago, this center serves as a training ground every summer for serious music students from around the world, selected to live and study here under the direction of a world-class faculty. Their work has brought universal recognition including a 13-hour series recorded and distributed through National Public Radio.

The focal point of Festival Hill is the concert hall, a 1,000-seat limestone structure whose interior, when not hosting a concert, is still a construction zone. In its grandiose scale and its dedication to craftsmanship, the concert hall rises from its rural surroundings like a grand cathedral looming above a European town. Work on the concert hall and the rest of Festival Hill is on a “pay as you go” basis. Carpenters recreate Old World craftsmanship slowly, with projects such as a ceiling filled with compass stars, each composed of over 700 pieces of beaded board.

"This woodwork and the creation of it is something that can still be done today,” explains James Dick. “You can still aspire to do something with your hands. That’s what Festival Hill is--doing something with your hands and doing something that blooms out of that endeavor.”

Even if you don’t have the opportunity to attend a concert, call to schedule a tour of the building. Your look at Festival Hill can include the David Guion Museum Room, housing a collection of belongings and music of this Texas composer, and the Oxehufwud Room, a collection of Swedish decorative arts which recalls the life of a Swedish noble family whose final member retired in La Grange.

But when there’s no concert, the most romantic activity at Festival Hill is picnicking. Bring a picnic lunch and enjoy the 100-acre grounds, planted with thousands of trees and crossed by walking trails and a recently completed stonework bridge, constructed to resemble a Roman footbridge. Tucked beneath tall oaks, the grounds are quiet and you’ll usually dine without disturbance.

Another well-known area stop is the Winedale Historic Center (4 miles north of Round Top on FM 1457, north on FM 2714, 979-278-3530). Operated by the University of Texas, this site hosts annual Shakespeare productions. A cast of students from assorted disciplines have come to Winedale every summer for the past two decades to perform the works of the Bard in an old hay barn. For 15 to 18 hours a day, the students make costumes, prepare lighting, and practice, practice, practice. Public performances are held Thursday through Sunday evenings in late July and early August.

Although Shakespeare at Winedale is only a summer-only activity, the historic center is a year-round attraction. Winedale is the creation of the late philanthropist Miss Ima Hogg, daughter of former Governor James Hogg. The project began in 1964 and was donated to the University of Texas three years later. Today the 215-acre complex houses a collection of historic structures, a research center, a nature trail, and a picnic area. Weekend tours take visitors through homes furnished with period antiques and boasting features such as stenciled ceilings that recall the German culture of the area.

You can also get a glimpse into the lifestyle of the area’s earlier residents at Henkel Square, a collection of historic homes and businesses dating from 1824 to 1915. The 40 buildings of Henkel Square were assembled from around Fayette County and include an apothecary shop that now serves as a visitors center, a schoolhouse-church, and a log house whose walls are tinted with wash bluing. The preservation of the buildings and the thousands of artifacts with which they are filled is due to the early residents of Round Top.

From Shakespeare to shopping, Beethoven to bed-and-breakfasts, Round Top offers big city culture with small town simplicity.

Short and Sweet

Getting there:
Round Top is located northwest of Houston. Travel west on US 290 to the intersection of TX 237 (west of Brenham). Turn south on TX 237 and continue for eight miles.

Festivals:
Although shopping in Round Top is good on any weekend, twice a year it’s so good that it draws shoppers from around the country. These are the weekends of the Round Top Antiques Fair, when over 200 dealers bring their wares to this small town. This show is held the first weekends in April and October. Often called the best antiques show in Texas, the three day fair focuses on American country antiques.

This show began as a way for 22 antiques dealers to add to their collections. For nearly three decades the show has continued to grow and word of its uniqueness has spread. Every dealer is required to bring fresh merchandise to his booth--items not shown in previous shows. Booths offer everything from teddy bears to Windsor chairs, quilts to majolica, tole to tinware. Other exhibitors offer American Indian rugs, rods, reels, creels, lodge furniture, country wicker, and baskets.

In recent years the fair has added displays in an air-conditioned dance hall, so now the show includes booths featuring decorative arts, more formal furniture, Tiffany silver, Staffordshire, antique oriental rugs, Flow Blue, and other fineries.

The Round Top Antiques Fair combines with the Round Top Folk Art Fair as the overflow of antiques dealers sets up with folk artisans on Highway 237. The Folk Art Fair is a real bonanza for collectors of folk dolls, vintage buttons, woodcarvings, needlework, and more. All the fair participants are selected because they work in colonial and traditional styles, so their work is not at all like what you would see in a typical arts-and-crafts show. They have been chosen because their work compliments the country antiques look featured in the show.

Dining:
Royer’s Round Top Cafe (on the square, 979-249-3611) is a country cafe with surprisingly sophisticated entrees such as grilled red snapper and pasta with fresh marinara and shrimp. It’s open Friday and Saturday for lunch and dinner, and Sunday for late lunch.

Love Nests:
In keeping with the historic emphasis of the town’s attractions and shops, Round Top’s many bed-and-breakfast operations have an old-fashioned, small town flair. Visitors at the Anderson’s Round Top Inn (102 Baver Rummel, 979-249-5294; www.andersonsroundtopinn.com) stay in historic structures. These 19th-century buildings each have 20th-century comforts, including air conditioning, central heating, and private baths. The inn spans a city block, formerly the property of Johann Traugott Wandke, an herbalist and organ maker who is known to have hand-crafted seven pipe organs from local cedar during his residence here. (His home is part of the inn; his stone workshop now houses an herb shop.)

Bed-and-breakfast lovers looking for a slightly different atmosphere appreciate Heart of My Heart Ranch (CR 217, 800-327-1242; www.heartofmyheartranch.com), located about two miles from town. Heart of My Heart has nine rooms, all containing antique furnishings. Guests can enjoy a taste of country life, fish in the stocked lake, bicycle country backroads, or just sit out on the grounds and listen to the sounds of the ranch’s cattle herd.

For More Information:
Write the Round Top Chamber of Commerce, Round Top, TX 78954, or call (979) 249-4042, or see www.roundtop.org.


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