Romantic Getaway: River Walk, San Antonio, Texas
Recommended for: hotels, nightlife, live music, evening strolls

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From an open doorway, the sound of dueling pianos, accompanied by the clamor of voices both on- and off-key, fills the street. A few doors down, the sound of Tejano hits and the shuffle of dancing feet present an audio invitation for fun. It’s a scene witnessed by couples enjoying hand-in-hand strolls down a winding flagstone walk and other visitors cruising the river in open-air barges.

This is the San Antonio River Walk, one of the most romantic sites in a city that’s custom-made for lovers. Combining the romance of Mexico with the sophistication of a cosmopolitan metropolis, San Antonio ranks as a top romantic hotspot.

Lovers journey to San Antonio to enjoy its exuberant yet leisurely atmosphere and to let the relaxed attitude of the Mission City soothe their urban blues. While other cities may speed along in the fast lane, San Antonio prefers the scenic route, a perfect pace for the city’s many tourists who visit from around the world. Although attractions abound, in this city either a siesta or a tour of a museum is equally acceptable.

Except during the early morning hours, expect a fiesta rather than a siesta along the River Walk. The popularity of this site goes back far before the days when people came here for sizzling fajitas and frozen margaritas. The Payaya Indians called this river Yanaguana or "refreshing waters." It also had a less elegant nickname--"a drunken old man going home at night," referring to its numerous twists and turns. Indians camped along the river banks and hunted on the rich land nearby.

In the early 1700s, the Spaniards constructed missions on the river’s bends. The northernmost site, San Antonio de Valero, later known as the Alamo was built first. Soon settlement began on the riverbanks.

Eventually the riverside neighborhood became undesirable. The River Walk did not come about until the 20th century. As part of WPA program, Robert H. H. Hugman was commissioned to develop the scenic walkway. He pictured a festive area he called “The Shops of Aragon and Romula,” named for the cities of Old Spain.

Still, development along the River Walk remained minimal until the World HemisFair. In the late 1960s, preparing for global visitors, the city beautified the park, investors opened businesses along the walkways, and the River Walk, as visitors today know and love it, was born.

No matter what day of the week, or what time of the year you visit, activity abounds along the River Walk. This is where city residents come to party, conventioneers come to meet, and lovers come to taste the flavor that is San Antonio. For the best overview of the 2 1/2-mile River Walk, take a ride on a river barge, a narrated tour that provides a look at stretches most pedestrians never see.

The river winds below numerous bridges (35 in all), each different in style. It flows on past several hotels and finally reaches the floodgates that mark the beginning of the horseshoe bend, the U-shaped section that makes up 50 percent of the walkway but a far greater percentage--from banana and cypress to colorful crepe myrtle.

But it’s at night when the River Walk puts on its most romantic face as the lights shine off the shallow river and sidewalk restaurants illuminate cozy tables with candles. This is the liveliest time at this popular site and you’ll find plenty to do, regardless of your musical tastes.

The hottest nightspot on the River Walk is the South Bank. Until recently, this stretch was generally quiet except for the purr of the river barges and the click of a brew laid on the longest wooden bar in Texas at the Esquire Bar. Today, the South Bank is the liveliest spot on the River Walk.

Jazz lovers should immediately head to Jim Cullum’s Landing (123-7 Losoya at the Hyatt Regency Hotel, 210-223-7266). Jim Cullum and his jazz band play New Orleans-style Dixieland several nights a week. You’ll also find Dixieland as well as traditional jazz at Dick’s Last Resort (406 Navarro St., 210-224-0026), a restaurant that features many local performers.

A lot of folks look for a hole-in-the-wall kind of place when they visit a city. That’s not easy to find along the River Walk, but the closest you’ll come is the Esquire Tavern (155 E. Commerce St., 210-225-2521). Located on the north bend of the River Walk, just past the floodgates, this joint has been a San Antonio watering hole since 1933. The smoke-filled tavern is dominated by the original bar.

For laughs, you might try the River Center Comedy Club (849 E. Commerce in the Rivercenter Mall, 210-229-1420), which features both San Antonio’s top comics and nationally known comedians. A favorite with locals and visitors alike, reservations are recommended.

If you’d rather dine before hitting these hot nightspots, you’ll find plenty of restaurants along the River Walk. If it’s barbecue you’re craving, The County Line (111 Crockett St., 210-229-1941) is an institution among Texas barbecue lovers. Like its other locations around the state, this County Line specializes an all-you-can-eat extravaganza where you’ll feast on beef ribs, brisket, and sausage.

Ask many San Antonians for their favorite River Walk eatery and you’ll hear the name Boudro’s (421 E. Commerce, 210-224-8484). This steak and seafood restaurant offers the finest in Southwestern cuisine, usually with a twist that makes it unique even among San Antonio’s plethora of excellent eateries. Start with a cactus margarita, a frozen concoction highlighted with a jolt of red cactus liqueur. Follow that eye-opener with an appetizer of smoked chicken or crab quesadillas or crab and shrimp tamales. Save room, though, for Boudro’s specialties—coconut shrimp, pecan-grilled fish fillet, or the specialty of the house, blackened prime rib. Seating is available along the River Walk or in the dining room.

The River Walk’s most romantic dining is found at Little Rhein Steakhouse (231 S. Alamo, 210-225-2111). Located where La Villita meets the River Walk near the Arneson River Theatre, this restaurant offers an excellent selection of fine steaks and serves diners at candlelit tables on terraces overlooking the river. On less pleasant days, you may choose to dine inside this historic steak house (built in 1847), which witnessed the development of San Antonio under six flags. The stone building also survived the battle of the Alamo only a few blocks away. From the extensive menu here you can choose anything from T-bone to ribeye to porterhouse steak, all served with Texas caviar, a mixture of black-eyed peas and chopped onion. Reservations are recommended.

And, if it’s a really special occasion, look to the most elegant and pricey restaurant near the River Walk (and indeed in the city). The prix fixe menu at The Fig Tree (515 Paseo De La Villita, 210-224-1976) features continental cuisine, including beef Wellington, lobster, and rack of lamb, as well as buffalo ribeye, venison and antelope tenderloins, and quail. This restaurant is open for dinner only, and reservations are recommended.

But don’t spend all your time on the River Walk dining. Budget some time for another favorite River Walk sport: shopping. Small boutique shops feature Texas-made products, Mexican imports, art, and clothing. For a shopping blow-out, head to the Rivercenter Mall, located on a man-made arm of the River Walk specially constructed to link the shopping center with the popular tourist destination. With aqua-tinted windows and a U-shape construction that surrounds an arm of the river, Rivercenter is more than your typical mall.

The most unique River walk shopping is found in La Villita. This historic site, the first permanent settlement in San Antonio, is today filled with art galleries, studios, and import stores.

Short and Sweet

Getting There:
The River Walk area is located in downtown San Antonio.

Festivals:
Every visitor feels romantic during the holiday season, when Fiesta de las Luminarias illuminates the River Walk with thousands of luminarias, tiny candles in sand-weighted paper bags. During the Holiday River Festival, the River Walk is transformed into a Christmas wonderland with hundreds of thousands of tiny lights. On the night following Thanksgiving, the river hosts a floating parade. But the most moving event is Las Posadas, a beautiful ceremony dramatizing Joseph and Mary’s search for an inn, with costumed children leading a procession down the River Walk. Holiday songs ring out in both English and Spanish.

Love Nests:
Some of the most romantic accommodations on the River Walk are found beyond the stretch that most pedestrians reach. King William, a historic neighborhood located on the southernmost reaches of the River Walk, is home to many elegant B&B properties, some located directly on the river. For more information, read about this area in the B&B section of this book.

Directly on the River Walk, you’ll find some of the nicest and priciest rooms in the city. Near South Bank, La Mansion del Rio (112 College St., 210-225-258; www.lamansion.com) is housed in an elegant Spanish-colonial-style structure that began as the St. Mary’s Academy in 1854. Today the hotel has 337 rooms and suites, many with private balconies overlooking the River Walk.

Continuing south, you’ll reach one of the crown jewels along the River Walk, the Hyatt Regency San Antonio (123 Losoya St., 210-222-1234 or 800-233-1234; www.sanantonio.hyatt.com). This hotel is located on the bend in the river and it captures all the excitement of the Paseo del Rio. Whether you enter from the street or the River Walk, you’ll admire the soaring atrium filled with palms and the sounds of falling water. Glass elevators whisk guests to the 631 rooms above.

Near the Rivercenter Mall, couples can select from two Marriott hotels. The original property was the Marriott River Walk (711 E. River Walk, 210-224-4555 or 800-228-9290; www.marriott.com). Built in 1979, the 500-room hotel is located directly between the mall and the convention center. Just steps away, the Marriott Rivercenter (101 Bowie St., 210-223-1000 or 800-228-9290; www.marriott.com) soars from the Rivercenter Mall, looming high over the River Walk above any other downtown hotel. The hotel boasts an executive health club with indoor and outdoor pools, hydrotherapy pool, saunas, and exercise equipment to use if you feel like too many Tex-Mex dinners are slowing you down.

Further south stands the Hilton Palacio del Rio (200 S. Alamo St., 210-222-1400 or 800-HILTONS; www.hilton.com). The hotel has a wonderful location, right in the middle of the River Walk action and just a few short steps away from La Villita and HemisFair Plaza.

And, if you’re looking for ultra luxury (a la Donald Trump), you can have the run of the house at the Lone Star Palace (123 Losoya, 210-222-1234 or 800-233-1234; hyatt.com). Directly across from the Alamo, this penthouse includes two bedrooms, three baths, a sitting room, a living room, and a kitchen, all decorated in true Texas style, and a patio and rooftop terrace where you’ll enjoy the city’s best view of the Alamo.

Available for groups as large as 200 (perfect for a wedding and reception), this downtown hideaway is also available as an overnight suite with concierge service and continental breakfast. (Catering is available through the Hyatt Regency San Antonio, which also handles reservations for the unique getaway.) Romantic packages include such luxuries as chilled champagne, gourmet dinner for two on the terrace, breakfast in bed, a hot air balloon ride across San Antonio, a sunset carriage ride, a moonlight ride on a River Walk barge, or a limo tour of the Alamo City. Be warned: Such luxury comes at a hefty price. If you have to ask, you probably can’t afford this hideaway.

Bridal Bits:
In historic downtown San Antonio, a charming limestone cottage was named a Texas landmark in 1873. Today this site, The Bright Shawl (210-225-6366, www.brightshawl.com), is a landmark for many couples who choose the site and its adjacent banquet facility as a venue for their wedding, reception or shower. Whether you’re opting for an intimate wedding or a large extravaganza, The Bright Shawl has just the right facility to accommodate your wedding party. You can choose the Living Room for groups of 24, the Club, for parties of up to 400, or select something in between. San Antonio’s excellent weather also makes outdoor wedding popular and The Bright Shawl’s courtyard, with its antique brickwork, fountain, and lush landscaping, is a favorite with brides.

Historic hotels are also top options with brides. Dedicated in 1909, the Sheraton Gunter Hotel (888-999-2089, www.gunterhotel.com) lies right in the heart of historic downtown, across from the Majestic and the Empire Theatres. Many couples have exchanged vows in the elegant Crystal Ballroom, with its majestic chandeliers and formal atmosphere. Wedding parties from 25 to 725 can be accommodated in this beautiful historic hotel.

San Antonio is also home to many historic churches which are popular wedding sites. In La Villita, Little Church (210-226-3593) was constructed in 1879 and features carved pegs carved by a Norwegian sailor. The quaint church is a favorite for small wedding ceremonies and just steps from the heart of the River Walk. Downtown’s San Fernando Cathedral (210-227-1297) was constructed in 1738 by Canary Island colonists, making this the oldest cathedral sanctuary in the nation. The cathedral performs over 100 weddings every year.

Other brides picture the perfect setting as something more newly constructed, perhaps incorporating the beauty of the region into their wedding. For these brides, the answer might very well be Los Encinos Texas Hill Country Estate (210-698-1654, www.losencinos.com) “We’re almost a one-stop so the bride only as four or five items to be responsible for,” explains Los Encinos’s Bertha Dominguez. “We do our own catering, photography, reception, and we have a honeymoon suite. We do all the decoration so the bride doesn’t have to worry about anything.” Located in the Hill Country on Boerne Stage Road, Los Encinos is surrounded by oaks and secluded, giving groups the feeling of an escape just miles from San Antonio.

The consultation that Los Encinos and several other properties provides simplifies the task of wedding planning, helping couples to coordinate the wedding of their dreams. “We customize weddings to the way the bride wants it,” says the Los Encinos wedding coordinator. “We’ve done medieval weddings, butterfly releases, horse and carriages, doves, fireworks, whatever the couple likes.”

Or perhaps you picture exchanging vows in one of San Antonio’s well-known hotels. The Omni San Antonio Hotel (210-699-5831, www.omnihotels.com) has a wedding coordinator right on site to help with every last detail, from decisions like decorating to catering. The Omni has a spectacular rooftop ballroom with a view of the city, a setting that’s sure to be memorable for your guests.

Spanish colonial architecture, Mexican tile, and tropical courtyards set the backdrop at the DoubleTree Hotel (210-321-4821, www.doubletreeweddings.com), an elegant hotel that makes a beautiful setting for weddings and receptions. Arranging a wedding at the hotel, located on Loop 410, is easy; wedding packages include everything from your choice of bridal cakes to beverage station and dance floor setup. The hotel’s full-time wedding coordinator helps with all the details, which also include wedding night accommodations for the bride and groom, a bottle of champagne, chocolate dipped strawberries, and breakfast for two. For wedding parties of 250 guests or more, lucky brides and grooms also receive an extended wedding package that includes spa pampering, perfect for calming last minute jitters.

A Mediterranean style sets the mood at the Bushnell (210-733-7705, www.bushnellsa.com), located in Monte Vista. Built in 1926, the historic building serves as the setting for many weddings on its rooftop terrace, which showcases a view of the skyline. The terrace isn’t all that attracts couples to this building, designed like a Spanish palace; the Bushnell is also home to a 2,000-square-foot top floor penthouse. Highlighted by black tile fireplaces and a Jacuzzi tub, the penthouse is a favorite hideaway as a honeymoon suite.

Spanish and Mexican accents transform Los Patios (210-655-6171, www.lospatios.com) into a favorite location for weddings and receptions. Located on Loop 410, Los Patios is tucked deep in ancient oaks, protected from the hustle and bustle of the city by lush landscaping that provides a home to swans, peacocks, and other birds. Once a campsite on Salado Creek used by Native American tribes, in modern days Los Patios has been the site for thousands of unique weddings. Along with outdoor settings, the facility also has two buildings decorated with Mexican elegance that can host weddings and receptions of all sizes.

For many couples, water makes the perfect backdrop for their vows and there’s no better place in San Antonio that the world-famous River Walk. Several hotels such as the Adams Mark Hotel San Antonio Riverwalk (210-354-2800, www.adamsmark.com) offer onsite wedding specialists to help plan every last detail, from a selection of locations to a banquet menu. For the largest of weddings, the Marriott Rivercenter and Riverwalk Hotels (210-228-4325, www.marriott.com) offer everything you need and on-site assistance. Weddings ranging from intimate to gala events of up to 800 can be planned at the Westin Riverwalk (210-224-6500, www.westin.com), complete with two ballrooms that overlook the River Walk.

For More Information:

Call the San Antonio Convention and Visitors Bureau at (800) 447-3372 for a free visitors packet or see www.sanantoniocvb.com.

When you reach San Antonio, the best source of information is the Visitor Information Center (317 Alamo Plaza), operated by the San Antonio Convention and Visitors Bureau. The center sits directly across from the Alamo.