Romantic Getaway: King William Historic District, San Antonio, Texas
Recommended for: b&bs, historic homes

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Imagine San Antonio without the River Walk. Without the Tower of the Americas. Without the bustling business that fills this modern metropolis.

It is the late 1800s. Texas is still a new frontier, gaining statehood after its years as an independent republic and a territory of Mexico. After years of subsistence on a rugged frontier, San Antonio residents were finally ready for comforts, culture, and a community spirit that emphasized education, music, and the language of their homeland.

With these goals, the King William district began. Started by the founder of the utopian community of Comfort (see the “Cozy Communities” section of this book), this elegant neighborhood on the banks of the San Antonio River soon became the home of the city’s German community. Here merchants built the city’s grandest homes, and this became the preferred address in the Alamo City.

Its status as a superior neighborhood goes back to the mid-1800s, when this district was populated by the Alamo City’s most successful businessmen and their families. Many of these frontier citizens were German immigrants with names like Guenther, Wulff, and Heusinger. With their wealth gained in merchandising and investing, they set about building the most lavish homes in the city, most in the grand Victorian style.

For visitors seeking a romantic getaway in San Antonio, a place to enjoy historic elegance in a quiet neighborhood that’s within easy walking distance of the River Walk, King William is an ideal destination. Tucked in a quiet neighborhood beneath towering live oak trees, this area is home to numerous bed-and-breakfast establishments. Ranging from country comfort to ante-bellum elegance, there’s a B&B for every taste.

Enjoy an overview of this 37-block area with a walking tour. At the San Antonio Conservation Society (107 King William, 210-224-6163, www.saconservation.org), pick up a free brochure. It will lead you past grand mansions built in the Neoclassical, Greek revival, and Queen Anne styles.

One of the most opulent of these residences was the Steves Homestead (509 King William St., 210-225-5924), positioned right on the banks of the river. Besides a natatorium and a carriage house, the home also boasted the finest furnishings and detail work of its era. Today it’s open for public tours, as is the Guenther House (205 E. Guenther, 210-227-1061 www.guentherhouse.com) next to Pioneer Flour Mills. Built in 1860, this was the home of Carl Hilmar Guenther, founder of Pioneer Flour Mills.

With its crystal chandelier, gold-leaf mirrors, and piano from Stuttgart, Germany, the parlor offers a lovely glimpse of the elegance once enjoyed by the Guenther family. The home’s library is now a museum, displaying pieces used by Pioneer Flour throughout the years, from Dresden china anniversary plates to cookie cutters and family photos. The San Antonio River Mill Store is housed in the former music room and bedroom, and visitors can purchase stoneware, baking accessories, and gift items here. Finally, the Guenther House Restaurant, decorated in the Art Nouveau style, serves breakfast, lunch, and Sunday brunch with indoor and outdoor seating (our favorite). The old mill still churns out some of the best flour gravy mix found on grocery shelves, along with cornbread, pancake, and similar mixes.

But the best way to enjoy the homes of this neighborhood is as a guest. One of the most unique properties in King William is the River Walk Inn (329 Old Guilbeau, 800-254-4440, www.riverwalkinn.com). The inn is located in a two-story log cabin that dates back to the 1840s. Constructed from log cabins brought in from Tennessee, these lodgings recall the atmosphere of San Antonio’s earliest days when Tennessee volunteers Davy Crockett and Jim Bowie fought at the nearby Alamo. Although rustic in appearance, inside, the rooms are pure luxury, filled with antique furnishings plus a fireplace, private bath, phone (with voice mail), cable TV, and refrigerator. From its 75-foot porch, rock away your cares and enjoy a glass of lemonade as you watch the activity on the quietest stretch of the River Walk.

For a completely different atmosphere, try the Ogé House (209 Washington, 210-223-2353; www.ogeinn.com). One of the most elegant B&Bs in town, this 1857 three-story plantation-style home has king and queen rooms filled with antiques. Located directly on the Paseo del Rio, this lovely spot is just minutes away from restaurants and shopping.

You’ll also find an authentic historic atmosphere at the Beckmann Inn and Carriage House (222 E. Guenther St., 210-229-1449 or 800-945-1449; www.beckmanninn.com). This beautiful home dates back to 1886 when it was built for the daughter of the Guenther flour mill family. Originally this home’s address was on Madison Street, but in 1913 the owners decided to extend the front porch around the house on the Guenther Street side. They wanted a new street address, one not shared by a notorious brothel also located on Madison Street at the time! Today this Victorian inn has four guest rooms, each with private baths, and also an adjacent Carriage House with a private entrance.

Another popular King William bed-and-breakfast is A Yellow Rose of Texas (229 Madison, San Antonio, TX 78204, 210-229-9903 or 800-950-9903; www.ayellowrose.com). The 1878 home has undergone a major renovation and now has an elegant Victorian atmosphere, offering five double rooms with private baths and cable TV.

Short and Sweet

Getting Around:
To experience King William in tune with the 19th century, leave your car and travel by trolley. For a quarter fare, hop aboard the Romana Plaza/King William/Blue Star Arts Complex line of the VIA streetcar trolley. This streetcar travels through King William to the Blue Star Arts Complex, La Villita, the Southwest Crafts Center, and the Spanish Governors Palace.

Festivals:
Organized home tours are conducted annually on the Saturday following Thanksgiving. For tour information, write the King William Association, 1032 S. Alamo St., San Antonio, TX 78210, or call (210) 227-8786.

Shopping:
If you’re looking for contemporary art, head to the Blue Star Arts Complex (116 Blue Star, 210-227-6960, www.bluestarcomplex.com). Located on the banks of the river, the complex is a stop on the King William/Blue Star trolley line. The main feature is the 11,000-square-foot Contemporary Art Museum, operated by the artists. Other galleries feature folk art, experimental media, ceramics, and furniture. The Milagros Contemporary Art Gallery displays contemporary art from Latin American, European, and American artists.

Art lovers should also visit the McDaniel Carriage House, built in 1896, now the home of the San Antonio Art League (130 King William St., 210-223-1140). Have a look at changing exhibits featuring various types of art, from members’ current works to pieces from previous decades.

For More Information:
Call the San Antonio Convention and Visitors Bureau at (800) 447-3372 for a free visitors packet, or visit www.sanantoniocvb.com.