Texas Romantic Getaway: Highland Lakes Chain
Recommended for: birdwatching, sunset watching, winery, lake cruise

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Slowly the boat winds its way up the wide river, passing a pair of white-tailed deer along the banks. A great blue heron fishes the tree-lined shallows on long graceful legs. A steep bluff dotted with yucca and prickly pear casts its shadow on the waters below.

This may sound like a scene from Texas’s past, but it greets boaters daily at Lake Buchanan. Aboard the Vanishing Texas River Cruise (www.vtrc.com), you have the chance to look at a slice of Texas removed from harried highways and bustling business. Kick off your shoes, settle back in a deck chair, and watch a little bit of Texas drift by while someone else takes over driving.

The Vanishing Texas River Cruise is located about 50 miles northwest of Austin on Lake Buchanan, the largest in the Highland Lakes chain. Although you probably think of boating as a summer activity, this cruise is perhaps best known as a wintertime treat. That’s because these cold-weather cruises feature a sight that’s found in Texas only during the winter--the American bald eagle. Aboard one of the multilevel cruise boats, winter visitors can float through eagle country for a rare look at our national bird, all from within the confines of the glass-enclosed decks or, for real bird-lovers, from the open-air top deck.

The eagles are popular with birdwatching groups and photographers, but other birds seen along the cruise route have their share of fans also. Egrets, blue herons, a variety of ducks, kingfishers, wild turkey, white pelicans, and sea gulls are seen regularly at various times of the year. Some, such as the gulls and the pelicans, follow the tour boats closely, looking for handouts.

But with warmer weather and the departure of the eagles, you’ll find many other attractions of the rugged shoreline. In the spring, wildflowers are popular attractions. Bluebonnets, red Indian paintbrush, and multicolored firewheels turn the riverbanks into colorful tapestries during the months of April and May.

During the summer, voyagers can spot deer, feral hogs, and wild turkey as they come from the hills to drink at the river’s edge. And warm summer evenings are perfect for sitting on the top deck and taking life easy.
The cruise also passes by the fields of Falls Creek Vineyards (2.2 miles northeast of Tow Post Office on FM 2241, 915-379-5361; free). Save time after your cruise to return to the winery for a tour and taste of this award-winning product.

For a look at other lakes along the Highland Lakes chain, created in 1937, drive south from Lake Buchanan. Inks Lake, the second in the chain, is a small lake only three miles long, but it has a special charm all its own. Much of the water’s edge is lined with homes, and a large section is bordered by the Inks Lake State Park (Park Rd. 4 off TX 29, 512-793-2223; www.tpwd.state.tx.us). This 1200-acre park is the largest of any of the Highland Lakes parks, with a 143 campsites, fishing piers, a concession for buying groceries or bait, and a nine-hole golf course. Nearby lies Longhorn Caverns.

Travel down FM 1431 to the third in the lake chain, Lake LBJ. Renamed for Texas’s hometown boy, Lyndon Baines Johnson, the lake is protected by tall granite cliffs which shield it from gusty winds. Because of the calm waters, skiers and fishermen are attracted in droves.

Next is Lake Marble Falls, named for the slick marble ledges that formed a waterfall and a natural lake. Today these falls are hidden in the depths beneath Lake Marble Falls and seen only when the water level drops.

You may not get to view the marble falls, but there’s no way to miss the granite for which Marble Falls is famous. This glimmering stone is everywhere, from the bluffs lining the lake to the picnic areas at City Park. In fact, one of the largest quarry operations of its kind is found on Granite Mountain, just west of the town of Marble Falls. Pink granite from the quarry was used to construct the nation’s largest state capitol building in Austin, Texas. A century ago, hundreds of stonecutters from Scotland along with gangs of Texas convicts performed the backbreaking work of cutting the stone from Granite Mountain.

The rough, rocky terrain of Marble Falls diminishes somewhat by the time you reach Lake Travis, a large, meandering lake that winds its way from the Hill Country to Austin’s front door. At 65 miles long, Travis is the longest lake in the chain and over three miles across in some spots, with literally hundreds of coves and inlets along its snakelike boundaries. Much of the land on Travis’s shores is controlled by the LCRA and remains undeveloped, but there are several excellent public parks from which to choose.

For couples looking for something a little different than the usual sunbathing, a popular spot is McGregor/Hippie Hollow Park (Comanche Tr. off RR 620). This is a clothing-optional park, the only one in the Austin area. On summer weekends, it is packed with nudists, curious onlookers, and swimmers who want to enjoy a beautiful swimming hole. Onlookers outnumber nudists many weekends, but to see the beach (and the swimmers) you must leave your car and walk down the trail to the water’s edge. The swimming area is protected from curious boaters, who are kept at a distance by patrolling Parks Department boats.

If you’re at Lake Travis at sunset, stop by the Oasis Cantina del Lago (6550 Comanche Tr., 512-266-2441), where Austinites flock to watch an unparalleled sunset from the restaurant’s multilevel decks.

When the day draws to a close, the sun bathes the lake in orange and red tones and a quiet comes over the water. As the last of the boats come in for the night, the Hill Country wildlife move in on the shoreline. Whether it’s a raccoon washing his evening meal or a white-tailed deer coming down for a cool drink, the lake returns to its rightful owners. And that’s the way the people of the Hill Country--and the couples lucky enough to spend a few days here--hope it will remain.

Short and Sweet

Getting There:
The Highland Lakes are located in the heart of the Hill Country, northwest of Austin. From I-35, travel west on FM 1431 to turnoffs for Lake Travis, Lake Marble Falls, Inks Lake, Lake LBJ, and Lake Buchanan. The fastest route to Lake Buchanan is via TX 29, west from I-35 in Georgetown.

Vanishing Texas River Cruise:
For information on the cruise, call (512) 756-6986 or write the Vanishing Texas River Cruise at P.O. Box 901, Burnet, TX 78611, or see www.vtrc.com. Reservations are required. Along with the 2 1/2 hour bald eagle cruises from November through March, Vanishing Texas offers a 4-hour vineyard cruise from March through May, wildflower cruises in April and May, and romantic sunset dinner cruises May through October. Charter cruises are also available.

Love Nests:
Nature lovers flock to another nearby park: Canyon of the Eagles Lodge and Nature Park (800-977-0081, www.canyonoftheeagles.com), on the north side of Lake Buchanan. Named for the American bald eagles that nest in this wilderness area, this park offers ecotourism activities from bird watching from an observation platform to canoeing along quiet waters. The lodge is a favorite with couples interested in stargazing (it has its own astrological observatory), fishing, hiking, or just enjoying nature.

On Lake Travis, try the Lakeway Inn (101 Lakeway Dr., 800-LAKEWAY or 512-261-6600). Located in the golf community of Lakeway on Lake Travis, this large hotel has 170 rooms featuring Southwest decor and a lake view. Some accommodations include fireplaces and kitchens. A lobby bar serves evening cocktails, and an attractive restaurant offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

On Lake LBJ, Horseshoe Bay Resort and Conference Club (RR 2147, west of Marble Falls, 800-252-9363 in TX or 800-531-5105 outside TX; www.horseshoebaytexas.com) is one of the premier resorts in central Texas. Golfers have their choice of three courses, including Applerock, designed by Robert Trent Jones. Other features include Oriental gardens, a yacht club, horseback trails, and tennis courts.

Bridal Bits:
One of Texas’s most unique (and often difficult to book) wedding venues is Falkenstein Castle, located between Burnet and Marble Falls. The castle is newly constructed but accurate down to historic details such as a 125-foot-high knight’s tower. The castle offers several wedding packages; see www.falkensteincastle.com.

For More Information:
Contact the Burnet Chamber of Commerce, Drawer M, Burnet, TX 78611 or call (512) 756-4297, or see www.burnetchamber.org. For information on the upper lake chain, contact the Lake Buchanan Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 282, Buchanan Dam, TX 78609 or call (512) 793-2803, or see www.highlandlakes.com/chamber.