Texas Romantic Getaway: Big Bend
Recommended for:hiking, rafting, star gazing

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Looking for a peek at the way Texas used to be? Then head off to Big Bend, one of the most rugged areas of the state. Formed by a southerly dip in the Rio Grande, this country is often referred to as the Lone Star State’s “last frontier.” If you and your sidekick are looking for a chance to get away from it all, this is it. Here the land stretches unbroken by highways or highline wires, all the way to the horizon. It’s a region of stark canyons and desert blooms, where sunsets explode nightly across the Technicolor sky.

It may be remote, but this area is rich with attractions--both of the natural and man-made varieties. Your first look at the Big Bend region is Fort Stockton, the largest city in the area. Located on I-10, it’s the most accessible town in the region. Stop first at the Visitor Information Caboose (I-10 and Highway 285, 915-336-8052) for free brochures.

Fort Stockton has several attractions, including the Annie Riggs Museum (301 S. Main, 915-336-2167). Housed in the 1900 Victorian Hotel, this adobe structure is filled with local history exhibits. The town is also home to the Ste. Genevieve Winery (25 miles east of town). Tours of the winery, the fifth largest in the U.S. and the largest in the state, are available only on Saturday through Roadrunner Bus Tours. For details call the Chamber of Commerce at (915) 336-2264, or stop by the Visitors Information Caboose.

Heading south from Fort Stockton on US 385, near the same route covered by the Comanche War Trial, is the town of Marathon. Historic hotel lovers know Marathon for its Gage Hotel built in 1927 (see “Love Nests”).
West of Marathon on US 90 lies the picturesque community of Alpine. Perched at an elevation of 4,481 feet, this tree shaded community enjoys a temperate climate and beautiful vistas. From here you’ll mountain peaks over 6,000 feet in elevation, projections that soar from the floor of the Chihuahua Desert.

Fort Davis, north on TX 118, is called the “highest town in Texas” at 5,050 feet. Here you can visit Ft. Davis National Historic Site (915-426-3224; www.nps.gov/foda) where restored buildings recall the city’s founding in 1854 as a US military post.

Lovers can gaze at the stars at the McDonald Observatory ( TX 118 N. 16 miles to Mt. Locke, 915-426-3640). Internationally known, the observatory is staffed by researchers and offers viewing, observatory tours, and a visitors center that’s open daily. The most spectacular views occur during Star Parties, held on Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. Here you can take in the heavens over West Texas by means of the telescopes provided. (Bring a jacket even during warm months because the desert air is chilly.)

South of Fort Davis on US Highway 67 lies the community of Marfa, home of Texas’s most unusual phenomena. Here, nine miles east of town, folks gather to view the mysterious Marfa lights. A historic marker identifies the spot where the lights have been seen for over a century. The viewing area fills with cars nightly as curious onlookers come in hopes of a glimpse of the lights, whose cause has never been explained. Search the horizon for the lights, which are seen year-round but not every night.

South of Marfa lies Big Bend National Park (915-477-1158; www.nps.gov/bibe). This may be the most rugged area of Texas, but it’s a fragile ecosystem. Travel carefully here and realize that the plant life has a tenuous hold in the rocky terrain.

Outdoor activities--from easy walks to strenuous climbs, from camping to photography--abound throughout the park. You’ll find that, although roads cover the area, one of the most popular ways to view the park is aboard white-water rafts. Guided float trips (or individual ones with a free park permit) cover the region. The two of you can spend a day or two weeks floating the river in style.

Short and Sweet

Getting There:
Big Bend is not an area you stumble upon as you journey. To reach this remote region, you must be headed here.

To drive to Big Bend, follow I-10 or US 90 to US 385. Turn south and continue to Big Bend National Park. This is not Yellowstone--don’t expect guided tour buses to help you with transportation needs. A vehicle is a necessity, so make prior arrangements for rental cars.

Festivals:
If you’re a follower of unexplained phenomena, then head to Marfa for the Marfa Light Festival on Labor Day weekend. The Marfa lights, seen most nights outside the city, have been spotted since 1883 and sometimes appear very bright, other times dim. The three-day celebration includes arts and crafts, food booths, and plenty of discussion about the mysterious lights. For more information, call the Marfa Chamber of Commerce at (915) 729-4942.

Love Nests:
Similarly, you also need to make prior arrangements for accommodations in this remote area. A night spent in the back seat of your car sounds romantic, but you’ll be left with painful souvenir and a sure way to kill romance--a sore back and a stiff neck.

One of the best known facilities in this part of the state is the Gage Hotel (Hwy. 90 in Marathon, 800-884-GAGE; www.gagehotel.com). This restored state historical landmark has both old and new sections (in the new section, some rooms include fireplaces.)

In the Davis Mountains State Park, make your reservations early for the Indian Lodge (Davis Mountains State Park, 915-426-3254). Built by the CCC, this 39-room classic inn features rooms with pine and latrilla cane ceilings. The hotel includes a restaurant.

Also in Fort Davis, The Hotel Limpia (100 Main St. on the Square, 800-662-5517; www.hotellimpia.com) offers 32 quiet rooms in a historic inn dating back 80 years.

At Lajitas Resort (877.424.3525, www.lajitas.com),couples find a full-fledged luxury resort complete with an 18 hole PGA championship golf course, spa, equestrian center, and hunting lodge--not to mention a private airport in case you need to jet in aboard your own ride.

In Big Bend National Park, the Chisos Mountains Lodge (915-477-2291; www.chisosmountainslodge.com) offers 72 motel rooms and stone cottages at an elevation of 5,400 feet above sea level.

For More Information:
For Fort Davis information, call the Chamber of Commerce at (800) 524-3015, or (915) 426-3015 or write Box 378, Fort Davis, TX 79734, or see www.fortdavis.com. For Marfa, call the Marfa Chamber of Commerce at (915) 729-4942. For more on the park contact the Superintendent, Big Bend National Park, TX 79834, or call (915) 477-2251, or see www.nps.gov/bibe.