ST. MARTIN-SINT MAARTEN

Fine French food. Topless French beaches. Dutch architecture. Casinos that ring with baccarat and roulette.

This is St. Martin, the island that calls itself "a little bit European and a lot Caribbean." Located 150 miles southeast of Puerto Rico, this 37-square-mile island is occupied by Dutch Sint Maarten and French St. Martin, the smallest land mass on the globe shared by two nations.

Today you'll find that the line between the French and Dutch sides is the simplest border crossing you'll ever make. No passports. No customs. No immigration. Just a simple sign marking the demarcation between two nations.

Although the border is almost superficial, there are distinctions between the two countries. Mention "St. Martin" and many visitors will immediately think of topless bathing that's de rigeur on the Gallic beaches. And on one mile and a half stretch, au natural is the order of the day. Orient Beach or Baie Orientale is the home of Club Orient, a naturist resort. The public beach is an equal mixture of nudists and cruise ship gawkers, sprinkled with folks who just want to enjoy gentle surf and powdery sand the color of toasted coconut.

The most cosmopolitan area of the island is found on its Dutch acres. Most visitors arrive in Simpson Bay's Princess Juliana International Airport. Don't let the modest size of the terminal fool you -- this is one of the Caribbean's busiest airports, with direct service from New York, Newark, Miami, Baltimore, and San Juan -- not to mention Paris and Amsterdam. Regional air service to many small islands also travels through this hub.

Simpson Bay hops with vacationers who come to enjoy pristine beaches, the island's best snorkeling at Mullet Bay, and the only golf course on the island, but in nearby Philipsburg it's shopping that draws visitors. Duty-free shops line the busy streets, and pedestrians can spend an entire day popping from store to store in this commercial center. Cameras, electronic goods, perfumes, and fine jewelry are especially good buys.