ST. MARTIN: ROMANTIC ACTIVITIES

Let's get this straight. We're not boaters. But we would name this boat race as one of our most exciting activities in the Caribbean. Our boat: the Stars and Stripes (yes, the same one that brought Dennis Conner to glory.) Our mission: to win the America's Cup.

Well, maybe not THE America's Cup. This is the 12-Metre Challenge 011-599-54-2075, a race for both first-time sailors and salty skippers alike, held three times daily, six days a week from the Philipsburg marina. We learned that this was no pleasure cruise -- we were there to work. For the better part of an hour we practiced our jobs, tacking and jibing, kicking up a salty spray and often leaning so far into the wind that half the crew enjoyed a cool Caribbean bath.

The division of labor was spread among the crew. A navigator kept us on the course (which ranges from 8 to 12 miles, depending on wind conditions that day). A timekeeper ensured that we started the race without penalty. A hydraulics expert operated the hydraulic primer to control the boom and keep the sails tight. Backstay grinders and trimmers moved sails and ropes, as did mainsail grinders and trimmers.

With the wind whipping as hard as 20 knots and swells churning up at six feet, we were quickly dowsed as we turned into position. "Red flag up! Start!" The race was on. We were now on course, racing upwind and zigzagging through the eye of the wind by tacking as fast as the crew could shout orders.

Minutes later, we jibed around the windmark and began sailing downwind. Canada II had pulled into the lead, but we were just a boat length behind. From our position we could see the masts, the height of an eight story building, leaning into the wind.

For 45 minutes, we edged both Canadian vessels for the lead. Finally, on the last stretch, Stars and Stripes pulled ahead. With one last "Primary grinders, go!" instruction, we were leading.

And suddenly, there was one last shout. "Blue flag up!" Blue for Stars and Stripes. We had won.

Dennis would have be proud.

There's plenty of action on St. Martin's shores as well. Beaches such as Cupecoy, Mullet Bay, Maho, and Dawn Beach on the Dutch side attract sunlovers. On the French side, beaches are all topless and include Baie Rouge and Orient Beach, best known for its clothing-optional stretch. Orient Beach is lined with restaurants, beach bars, and souvenir stands, but on the nude beach photography is prohibited (although tour bus loads of gawkers come by daily). Chairs and umbrellas rent for about US $5 each.