ST. LUCIA: ROMANTIC ACTIVITIES

Here's the toughest part of your St. Lucia vacation: trying to decide what to do. The choices are all so tempting that you can easily spend several days touring the island--and still have plenty of sights to justify a return to visit.

On the northern reach of the island lies Pigeon Island, a 35-minute drive from Castries. No longer a true island but connected to the main island by causeway, Pigeon Island has a long history as everything from a pirate hideout to a military fort. The ruins of the fort can still be seen at Pigeon Island National Park, a popular day trip for north shore vacationers and the site of many of St. Lucia's festivals. North of Pigeon Island lies Gros Islet, known throughout the Caribbean for its Friday night jump-up (see Nightlife).

Most couples stay on the northeast section of the island near Castries, the island's largest city with a population of 60,000. This capital city was destroyed by fire several times, but some colonial period wooden structures still remain. You'll see several of them as you head south on Government House Road. This twisting, climbing slice of road is slow going but offers you a great view. Save time for a stop across from the Governor's House for a panoramic look at the city. From atop Morne Fortune, hill of good luck (not such good luck for the French soldiers who resided here in the 18th century; they were plagued with yellow fever), you'll have a postcard view over Castries Harbour, Vigie Peninsula and Pigeon Island

Continuing south, the road soon drops into a veritable forest: the first of several banana plantations. Driving past this display of the island's number one crop, you'll see blue plastic bags hanging from many trees. These cover the bananas themselves to shield the crop from insects and bruising by the banana leaves. The banana plant yields only one crop during its lifetime, a process that takes nine months to bear fruit.

Marigot Harbour, located just off the main road, is the next stop. This magical harbor, often considered to be the most beautiful in the Caribbean, is dotted with yachts from around the globe. If you don't have your own, don't worry. The Moorings, a company headquartered in the British Virgin Islands, can rent you a yacht with or without a crew to enjoy a sailing vacation of your own. Landlubbers will enjoy the scenic harbor as well, and may recognize it from the movie Dr. Doolittle.

South of Marigot, the road passes through many small communities and fishing villages. Make time for a walk around Anse La Raye (Beach of the Ray), a traditional St. Lucian fishing village. Enjoy a walk along the waterfront to view the hand-crafted fishing canoes painted in bright primary colors and the various fishing nets and traps used in these waters. In town, stroll past traditional Caribbean homes with lawns outlined in conch shells, past the large Roman Catholic church, and make a stop in the authentic Creole bakery for a treat.

The Soufriere region is the heartland of the island's many attractions. There's no denying that the most scenic part of the island is this south-central region. Starting with the rain forest and continuing down to the Pitons, this spectacular region is the breadbasket of the island. Every tropical fruit and vegetable thrives in this rich region, which is sparsely populated.

For many visitors, the most fascinating area is the rain forest. You'll need a guide to enter the restricted rain forest region, so sign up for a guided tour with one of the island's tour operators. Hiking tours are available with guides from the Forestry Department. You'll walk through the dense foliage, swim in a tropical waterfall, and learn more about the plants that make up this fragile ecosystem. And, if you're lucky, you may have the opportunity to see the rare St. Lucian parrot .

This area is also home to a unique Sulphur Spring volcano, often called the "drive-through volcano." Actually, visitors cannot drive or walk through the volcano anymore (a few years ago a Rasta guide fell through a weak part of the crust--and fortunately received only severe burns). Groups walk only to the edge of the volcano which last erupted two centuries ago. With the smell of sulphur heavy in the air, you'll see jets of bubbling water black with ash and bubbling with gases released from deep in the earth's core. (Leave your silver jewelry back at the hotel for this trip. The gases can cause silver to tarnish.)

Near the volcano, the Diamond Waterfalls and Gardens bloom with tropical splendor. A self-guided walk through the garden leads the two of you past well-marked trees and flowers, and finally to the Diamond Waterfalls, a cascade that leaves a spray of "diamond" twinkles in the air. If you stop by on a Sunday, you can also enjoy a soak in the mineral baths. Originally funded by French King Louis XVI, these baths date back to 1784 when the king had the baths constructed for use by his troops.

Another major attraction of St. Lucia is its scuba diving. Anse Chastanet is considered to be the top dive spot on the island and one of the best in the Caribbean. The reason? Extraordinary fish life, coral formations, and sponge growth right off shore. Divers and snorkelers can enjoy spectacular underwater exploration just yards from the beach.

Night divers can also have the chance to see Anse Chastanet's unidentified sea creature known only as "The Thing." Frequently spotted on night dives, this shy creature, a 15-foot long worm-like being with hundreds of legs, has never been identified.

St. Lucia's beaches run from golden brown to a salt-and-pepper mixture of sand and volcanic elements. Some of the most popular beaches are Anse Chastanet, Anse Cochon, and Reduit Beach. Sunbathers take note: topless and nude sunbathing is prohibited throughout St. Lucia.