JAMAICA NIGHTLIFE

For most vacationers, nightlife is found in the resorts, most which feature nightly shows that range from reggae performers to SuperClubs' Elvis impersonator (don't laugh--he's good!) to island night with fire eaters, limbo dancers, and contortionists.

Those looking for more nightlife will find plenty of it, though. In Negril, evenings start about an hour before sunset at Rick's, the most popular sunset spot on the island. Located on the cliffs of the town's West End, this open-air restaurant and bar is a favorite with American visitors. The action starts with daredevil cliff divers who leap from the rocky crags to the aquamarine depths below, to the cheers of onlookers. As the sun begins to set, the attention turns to the west and couples look for the green flash, a natural phenomena that only occurs when the sun sets on a cloudless evening. Under the right conditions, as sunset cools into the sea, comes a momentary green sizzle on the horizon that science explains as the refraction of sunlight through the thick lens of the Earth's atmosphere. Island lore links it to romance: couples who witness the flash are guaranteed true love.

In Negril, probably the most festive of the resort areas, you can boogie down until the week hours with a night pass at Hedonism II (call 876-957-4200 to reserve this popular, but pricey, night pass). A half-million dollar disco pulsates until 5 a.m. with laser effects, flashing lights, and all kinds of music.

In Montego Bay, a popular night excursion is An Evening on the Great River (876-952-5047), held every Sunday and Thursday. Beginning with pick up at your hotel, the evening includes a boat ride up the torch-lit river, an open bar, Jamaican dinner, reggae band, and a native floor show with limbo dancers.

Mo Bay is also the home of Lollypop (953-5413), an open-air bar on Sandy Bay. This popular spot has reggae shows and also a Jamaica night weekly with a Jamaican buffet.