NEGRIL

Negril visitors don't have to venture all the way to Ocho Rios to enjoy waterfalls. Western Jamaica has a much quieter alternative in Y.S. Falls. These spectacular waterfalls cascade in steps through tropical forest. As spectacular (and far less crowded) as Dunn's River Falls, Y.S. is a Jamaican attraction that has remained untouched by hassling vendors and long lines. At the top, swimmers enjoy clear waters under a canopy of fern.

The falls have been open to the public since the late 80s, but this property has existed as a farm since 1684. Some say its unusual name (the shortest place name in Jamaica) came from the Gaelic word "wyess", meaning winding or twisting. Others believe the name was formed from the initials of the farm's original two owners: John Yates and Lt. Col. Richard Scott.

Nearby in the community of Black River, enjoy the Black River Safari Cruise, a popular day trip for Negril vacationers looking for a little respite from sun and sand. This hour and a half long tour takes travelers up the Black River, at 44 miles the longest river in Jamaica. The waters here are home to snook and tarpon, some reaching as large as 200 pounds. You may see spear fishermen with a snorkel, mask and speargun, swimming in the dark water stained by peat deposits. The fisherman's canoes are hand-hewn and burned out using a generations-old technique. Among their catch are tiny brine shrimp, sold by women in the St. Elizabeth parish along the roadside. Highly salted and spiced, these are a popular snack with locals and visitors.

The biggest attraction on the Black River are the crocodiles. Once hunted, these crocodiles are now protected but still remain wary. These reptiles can live as long as 100 years, so long that some have become known by local residents. One 15-foot-long specimen named Lester is seen nightly.

You'll also find plenty of opportunities to get out on the water aboard sunset cruises, most with an open bar. During the day, catamaran trips take visitors out to small offshore cays.

For a look at the countryside around Negril the way it used to be, consider at day at Belvedere Estate, one of the first sugar cane plantations on the island. Located an hour from town, this estate is set up as a living museum with costumed guides to show you the ruins of the 1800's great house, the sugar factory, and the boiler where the juice of the cane is made into brown sugar. In the craft village, watch a weaver make coconut palms into baskets, talk to an herbalist about Jamaica's bountiful herbs, visit a canoe maker, and have a taste of island bread at the bakery. A traditional Jamaican lunch is included with the tour. For reservations, call 876-952-6001 or 957-4170.