CURACAO ROMANTIC ACTIVITIES

Independent travelers love Curaçao: it's easy to get around and it's simple to move beyond the resort to experience the stream of everyday life. This is an island without hasslers or pushy vendors, a place where the two of you can walk hand-in-hand along the streets, dine at sidewalk cafes, and be greeted by friendly Curaçaoans.

Start with a visit to Willemstad, a historic city that bustles with activity but also takes a slower pace in its shopping district. Here you can take a guided tour aboard an open-air trolley or a self-guided walk for a look at Fort Amsterdam. And you can't miss the historic harborside shops, as colorful as Easter eggs.

Stroll through the streets and alleyways, then walk across the Wilhelmina Bridge to the Floating Market, one of Willemstad's most colorful sites. Here Venezuelans sell fresh fish and vegetables (a real commodity on an island without much agriculture.) Stroll along the waterway booths and buy exotic tropical fruits or watch fishermen cleaning their catch for a buyer. Behind the stalls, colorful schooners make an excellent photo.

While you're in the city, make time for a visit to Seaquarium 011-599-9-4653160 one of the Caribbean's finest marine exhibits. Along with tanks of local fish, coral, and sponges, the aquarium also has several outdoor tanks with larger species--including sharks, sea turtles, and stingrays. Divers and would-be divers can take a dip here and feed the sharks through holes in an underwater Plexiglas wall. Complete instruction and equipment are provided. For those who want a drier look at these toothy denizens, just walk down into the Seaquarium Explorer 011-599-9-4616666, a semi-submarine parked by the shark tank. The Seaquarium has even been the site of an underwater wedding as well as four deep sea proposals. Divers popped the question by writing on underwater clipboards.

After the Seaquarium have a dip at the Seaquarium Beach, a full-service beach with watersports, restaurant, bar, and plenty of action. There's a small admission charge. This is the beach where Curaçaoans and visitors come to see and be seen, and topless bathing is popular. Waters as calm as a lake make swimming inside the breakwaters easy and safe.

Curaçao has over three dozen additional beaches from which to choose, all located on the Caribbean side of the island. Some of the most popular are Knip Bay and Barbara Beach.

Curaçao may be a dry island, but you'll find plenty of other natural attractions. One of the most romantic is Boca Tabla, a sea cave carved by pounding Atlantic waves. Located on the road to Westpoint, the cave is a short walk off the road (wear sturdy shoes!) but it rewards lovers with one of the region's most breathtaking sights. Kneeling in the darkness of the sea cave, you'll watch the surge of crystal blue waves as they come within feet of you, roaring into the cave and back out to sea. Above the cave walk on the volcanic rock (stay on the pebble path) to the seaside cliffs for excellent photos.

If you'd like to venture into a cavern, take a tour of Hato Caves 011-599- 868-0379, open daily except Monday. Guided tours take the two of you through the stalactite and stalagmite filled rooms, several which include pools or waterfalls.

Nature lovers should save time for a visit to Christoffel National Park 011-599-864-0363, on the western end of the island. This wildlife preserve includes the island's highest point and 20 miles of trails that wind through local flora and fauna. Don't be surprised to see some native wildlife in the park; it is home to iguanas, donkeys, small deer, rabbits, and many bird species.

Curaçao is also home to many man-made attractions. The cunucu or countryside is dotted with landhaisen or landhouses where you can tour, dine or enjoy a cold brew. Stop by Landhais Jan Kock, built in 1650 (and supposedly haunted) for a cold Amstel. If you drop by on a Sunday, enjoy Dutch-style pancakes as well.

For a look at all these attractions, consider an island tour. Tours can be booked through hotel desks or call Taber Tours 011-599-9-737-6637 for a rundown of their packages which include east and west end tours, Hato Cave tour, jeep safari, and sailing and sunset cruises. On the web: www.curacao.com-tabertours-index.html.