When you fly into St. Louis, there’s no missing it – the gleaming arch which looms over this Midwest city and the winding Mississippi River. Some said it could not be built.

The idea for a monument to commemorate the pioneers of the Westward Expansion movement began before World War II. The war brought the project to a halt until 1948, when Eero Saarinen was judged the winner of a $225,000 competition for the best memorial design. His inverted catenary curve design, in principle the strongest curve known, was the same shape which a heavy chain would take when suspended freely by two points.

But the choice of the memorial design was just the first step, because the Gateway Arch was truly a unique undertaking. The only other monument which would surpass it was the Eiffel Tower, and although about a dozen were longer, no bridge in the world was as tall as the proposed arch. A look at the measurements is astonishing. The sides of each of its triangular legs are 54 feet wide at the ground, tapering to 17 feet at the pinnacle. This gives the arch, which is 630 tall and 630 feet wide, the appearance of being much taller than it is wide.

Construction began in February 1961. From the outset, incredible exactness was required because the legs were built simultaneously. Even an error of a fraction of an inch at the base would have meant that the two sections could not have been joined when workers reached the top. Margin for error was a scant 1/64 of an inch.

To assure accuracy, nightly measurements were taken. Like the western explorers over a hundred years before, the workers took their readings by starlight. It was too risky for the measurement to be taken during the day, when shadows could have caused a miscalculation.

On Oct. 28, 1965, the last piece was lowered into place, and steamboats blew their whistles up and down the Mississippi. It was the completion of a 30 year project, and a 2-1/2 year construction job. Despite a grim prediction of the loss of 13 men, not a single life had been lost on the project.

Today, you’ll find several hours worth of activities at the Gateway Arch. Underground, beneath the arch, lies the visitor center, the Museum of Westward Expansion, and tram rides to the top of the Arch. After spending a few moments contemplating this incredible structure, visit the visitor center for a look at how this memorial was built and, even more importantly, why it was built.

Are We There Yet?

You can’t miss this park–just look for the silver arch. The park is located downtown right on the Mississippi River; parking is available at the Arch Parking Garage on Washington Street.

What’s There To Do Here?

The Visitors Center shows Charles Guggenheim’s film, Monument to the Dream, throughout the day to show visitors the often hair-raising work of the construction crews who put the arch into place. There’s no better way to appreciate the precision and hard work the project required than to view the 35-minute documentary. Don’t be surprised to hear more than one gasp during the film from your fellow movie-goers – some of the high-rise scenes are enough to make your palms sweat.

Nearby you can experience big-screen fun at the Odyssey Theater. This wide screen theater boasts a screen over four stories tall and features various specially produced films.

The visitor center welcomes three million visitors a year, and is just one part of a number of underground attractions. Unless you are claustrophobic, head for the tram rides, located beneath the north and south legs.

The trip up the arch is unlike any other tram ride you’ve ever taken. From the moment you enter one of the eight cars (which look like giant clothes dryer drums!), you know you’re in for something different. Together with four other passengers, you’ll make the four-minute journey up the Arch in a series of moves which prevent the cars from arriving at the observation area on their sides!

The ride up the arch may be somewhat cramped and stuffy, but step out on the observation area and you’ll know it was all worthwhile. The totally enclosed area is eight feet wide and 64 feet long, with windows lining both sides for views eastward across the Mississippi into Illinois and westward across the sprawling city of St. Louis.

When you look west, you’ll see all of downtown. St. Louis–Busch Stadium, the home of the Cardinals, Union Station, once the busiest railroad station in the country, and Forrest Park, location of the zoo.

But it’s also possible to look out and imagine a much smaller St. Louis. This was once a city of steamboats, fur trappers, and explorers. The Gateway Arch is built on the very site of the original village of St. Louis, founded as a trading center in 1764 by Pierre LaClede. The frontier settlement outfitted Lewis and Clark for their three year exploration of the Louisiana Purchase, and later it was the last look of “civilization” the settlers had as they began their long journey west.

The history of these explorations is traced in the Museum of Westward Expansion, located near the Visitors Center. Thomas Jefferson stands at the entrance to the museum, looking out at the exhibits which trace the exploration of the West. Jefferson’s foresight is responsible for the Louisiana Purchase, and he sent explorers Lewis and Clark on their famous journey to chronicle life in the West.

When you leave the underground museum and return to the sunshine reflecting off the 165,000 square feet of shining stainless steel, you may look to the West and remember Lewis and Clark and the hardy pioneers who braved the unknown wilderness. Or you may think of Eero Saarinen and the daredevil construction workers who completed a project that had never before been tried. The silver arch stands glimmering against the St. Louis sky as a tribute to all of these brave pioneers.

When Are We Going?

Peak season is during the summer months, although you can also expect to see school groups at the park during late spring. This is a busy park with over 4 million visitors last year, so come early in the day to avoid crowds.

How Long Are We Staying?

You’ll want at least half a day to enjoy the Museum of Westward Expansion, watch the films, and ride to the top (allow time for long lines during the peak season). Allow extra time if you’ll be touring the Old Courthouse.

What Should I Bring?

Most of the park is indoors, so just be comfortable. Binoculars are fun for viewing from the arch.

What Are We Doing Next?

St. Louis Carousel, Faust Park 15185 Olive Blvd. Chesterfield MO. We loved our ride on this 1920s carousel that has been lovingly restored. Don’t fight over which horse you ride! The carousel is located indoors, so weather is no problem.

Six Flags Over Mid-America, 30 minutes from the city on I-44, Allenton Exit. This theme park has lots of rides and activities to make the two of you feel like kids again; open April through October.

Union Station, Market Street between 18th and 20th Sts., Tel. 214/421-6655. This restored railroad station is an elegant reminder of yesterday’s rail travel has been restored to its full glory, with a 2,000 piece, Tiffany stained glass window representing the three main railroad areas of the country at that time: San Francisco, New York, and St. Louis.

In its heyday, the station saw over 100,000 travelers a day, but as rail travel diminished so did use of the station. In 1978, the last train pulled out and the station remained unused for several years, until a massive restoration project turned the station and the adjoining train shed (the largest single span shed in the world) into a festival marketplace with shops, restaurants, and even children’s entertainment under the train shed.

For More Information

• St. Louis Convention and Visitors Commission
  

Practical Information

Address: Jefferson National Expansion Memorial, 11 North 4th St., St. Louis, MO 63102
Website: http://www.nps.gov/jeff/
Operating Season: year around; closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day
The tram ride up the Arch and the films cost extra.