Waldo County: Rustic, Romantic Maine
By Kathie Farnell

Thanks to Stephen King, the state of Maine may be better known for horror than romance, but picturesque Waldo County, on the south central coast, offers plenty to appeal to starry-eyed visitors.

The little towns of Belfast and Searsport were built in the heyday of the region’s shipbuilding, and sailing ships still glide through the waters here. Belfast’s pretty brick downtown, intact since the 1880’s, slopes downhill to a harbor filled with sleek small craft. Nowadays, Belfast makes a living from lobsters and tourism, and we split the difference by going for a sail aboard the Amity, a 37-foot wooden sloop built in 1901 as a lobster boat which now takes visitors around scenic Penobscot Bay. Another trip aboard the modern-day lobstering boat Good Return, captained by Melissa Terry, provided a view of the harbor and a chance to watch lobstering in action.

Speaking of lobster, it may be possible to eat lobster at every meal here, though I tried to make breakfast a crustacean-free experience. One eatery even experimented with lobster ice cream, though it didn’t go over quite as well as expected. Our favorite spot for lobster turned out to be Anglers Restaurant, an unassuming café in Searsport, featuring absolutely fresh seafood and fabulous homemade desserts. Lobsters aren’t the only draw at Anglers; the Boston Globe voted the fried clams number one on the coast. For dessert, the Maine blueberry pie is the obvious choice, although the rhubarb crisp and the grapenut custard (a local specialty made with the good-for-you cereal) run a close second.

Another seafood spot, Papa J’s and the Lobster Bar, in Belfast, offers a view toward the water and a well-rounded wine list along with the seafood.

The Maine Chowder and Steak House, also in Belfast, is noteworthy both for its spectacular view of the water and its variety of chowders. The Scottish chowder, made with smoked finnan haddie, has an appealing smokiness.

There are plenty of outdoor activities in Waldo County. We hiked along the shore at Moose Point State Park, where a spruce forest provides welcome shade, toured Fort Knox (no, this isn’t that Fort Knox) with its commanding view of the harbor town of Bucksport, and sampled merlot-like blueberry wine at Winterport Winery in Winterport. The Penobscot Marine Museum, in Searsport, offers a unique look at the area’s seafaring past; the museum includes several blocks of sea captain’s houses, boatbuilding yards, and a church—all original to the site.

Around Belfast and Searsport, many of the old houses have been converted to bed and breakfasts. I enjoyed my stay at the Londonderry Inn, just outside Belfast. Built in 1803, this farmhouse boasts extensive grounds, a shady porch, and an enormous kitchen complete with fireplace. Host Marsha Oakes, her parents, and her grandmother offer Down East hospitality complete with sumptuous breakfasts featuring the local blueberries along with delicacies such as French toast, quiche and homemade muffins.

The Inn is air-conditioned, a feature which does not sound like a necessity in Maine, but when the temperature hits 95, as it did during my stay, the innkeeper’s foresight pays off.

For the cat fanciers among us, two fluffy Himalayans are available for general petting.

Meanwhile, a different breed of cat is in evidence at the charming Mad Captain’s House in Belfast, which has the distinction of being haunted, not by the aforementioned captain, but by a cat. Guests find locked doors are no protection against a phantom kitty who bounds up on their beds, purring spectrally, and snuggles up against them. Those who have the presence of mind to switch on the light find nothing there.

This is still Stephen King country, after all.

Getting There

Waldo County is easily accessible from the airport at Bangor, thirty five miles from Belfast, or from Portland International Jetport, roughly two hours from Befast via interstate. U.S. Airways and Delta have regularly scheduled flights.

For More Information

For more information on Waldo County, contact the Waldo County Marketing Association, www.waldocountymaine.com, or call 1-800-870-9934.