Cyprus: A Royal Romance
by Eleanor S. Morris

Richard I, the Lion-Heart, lauded for centuries as a gallant Crusader knight, has been revealed in modern times as rather a rascal. Instead of properly ruling England, not only did he run off to the Crusades, he left Britain practically bankrupt.

But he did do something right. He married his princess, Berengaria of Navarre, in a royal castle on the island of Cyprus. She and Richard had met once, years before the union, and contemporary writers speak of the attraction between them.

Berengaria was the daughter of King Sancho VI of Navarre. She was chosen as Richard's wife by his mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and although he was already engaged in the Crusade, he had Berengaria brought to him by his mother.

The two women had a long and trying journey, catching up with Richard. Their ship went aground off the coast of Cyprus, and were threatened by one Isaac Comnenus, self-proclaimed "Emperor" of Cyprus. But heroic Richard came to the rescue. He overthrew Comnenus, captured Cyprus, and married Berengaria in the Chapel of St. George in the Fort of Limassol. There, she was also crowned Queen of England--although she never set foot in Britain.

(Cyprus has had quite a history. Years later Richard sells the island, for 100,000 dinars, to the Knights Templars, who in turn resell it to Guy De Lusignan, deposed King of Jerusalem.)

You'll want to visit the Chapel in the Medieval Fort, where the royal wedding took place in 1191. The fort also houses the Cyprus Medieval Museum. Nearby is the Limassol Archaeology Museum, with an interesting collection of antiquities from the Neolithic Age to the Roman Period. Also while in Limassol, tour the beautiful collection of Cyprus Folk Art of the early 19th and 20th century in the Municipal Folk Art Museum in a restored old house.

Limassol stretches along the island's south coast, and hotels, restaurants and nightspots abound along the beach. From Limassol, follow the sea east to Larnaka, with its almost-Continental Palm Tree Promenade. Palm trees line the walk, and there are cafes and tavernas, popular during the long summertime.

At the western edge of the promenade is the town's 17th century fort, now the Larnaka Medieval Museum. Built in 1625, the British used it as a prison during the first years of their rule. In the Larnaka Municipal cultural center you can see ancient fossilized remains of the pygmy elephants and hippopotami that once lived on the island.

You won't want to miss Nicosia, in the center of Cyprus, the only capital city in the world divided by force. While the southern two-thirds of the island belong to the Republic of Cyprus, the northern third was invaded by Turkish troops in 1974, and you can peek over the wall of United Nations' Green Line and see some Turkish soldiers hanging around. Though the Turks claim northern Cyprus as a breakaway pseudo-state, it has been recognized by no nation other than Turkey.

The city blends a historical past well with the bustle of a modern city. The heart of the city is enclosed by strong fortress walls built by the Venetians in the 16th century. Narrow streets and old houses with ornate balconies will take you back in time. LaikiGeitonia (Folk Neighborhood) is a pedestrian area, lined with shops, galleries and restaurants. Craftsmen in small workshops practice trades unchanged for centuries, and as you stroll through the narrow streets, friendly Cypriots will greet you with enthusiasm.

Organized walking tours are a great way to become acquainted with the character of the old city. They begin on Mondays and Thursdays at 10:00 at the Cyprus Tourist Organisation in Laiki Geitonia, the Folk Neighborhood. (Tel: (02) 67 42 64)

The modern city developed outside the walls, becoming a contemporary and cosmopolitan business and cultural center. But within the walls, and just a few miles outside the city, there are enchanting Byzantine churches and monasteries and archaeological sites.

The Cyprus Handicraft Centre has various workshops where you can watch artists working. There's a showroom and shop there, too, if you're looking for craft souvenirs.

You might be overwhelmed by the huge black statue of Archbishop Makarios III in front of the Byzantium Museum and Art Galleries he stands guard over. Inside, you'll find the largest collection of icons on Cyprus, all from the 9th to the 18th centuries. Also, the museum contains oil paintings, maps and lithographs.

Quite an experience are Cyprus' 10,000 years of history and civilization. Do you suppose Richard the Lion-Heart would regret selling the island to the Knights Templars back in the 12th Century?