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The Other Side of Curaçao
By Holly Reich


There is a carving in a watapana tree (means tree of life) in the center of Willemstad, Curaçao, that is one of the most erotic sculptures I have ever seen.

A woman’s naked body is carved into the muscular blood-colored roots of the tree. Like this island’s many layers of dense history and culture, the art is lush, intimate and organic.

According to local wisdom, the craftsman who creates these tree sculptures does them late at night and they appear in town once in awhile. The legend claims the sculptor was on the verge of suicide when he made his first carving - and the way I understand it, his creation gave him back his will to live.

This is what I call the other side of Curaçao.

And there’s more.

Beyond the gingerbread townhouses and silvery sand beaches, in a former military barrack near the airport, lies Campo Alegre, the largest legal brothel in the Caribbean. It is not out of context if you remember that Curaçao is a Dutch colony.

Campo Alegre, Spanish for Camp Happiness, is also a ‘hangout” where women are welcome guests one night a week and the entertainment is pole dancing. The open-air thatch-roofed bar is casual, with couches and cushioned chairs facing an unadorned stage.

The “brothel” part of the property looks like a small well-manicured town of one-room casitas. The only difference is that there are no kids playing on sidewalks. Instead, sultry looking full-figured women are walking around in anything from go-go outfits to sparkly lingerie, while TV screens play a loop of soft-core porn.

I have to admit it was my first experience in a strip bar or a brothel. When I mentioned this to a fellow journalist, he ordered me up a lap dance. It was my first experience with that as well. I’m not sure that many women--especially in the Caribbean/Hispanic culture -- get lap dances but I found the whole experience exhilarating, fun, even liberating!

At least that’s what how I was feeling when our group returned to Breezes resort a little past one AM. A wall of kids confronted us in the main lobby. “You’re late!’ my 11-year-old scolded me. “I’m calling Dad!”

“We didn’t know what time it was,” I sputtered.

“You should have called!” she yelled.

It was one of those stellar moments when you don’t know who’s the adult and who’s the kid. I cut a look to the friend who bought me the lap dance and we just laughed.

Also see:

Photo courtesy Curaçao Tourist Board


Holly Reich is a travel and automotive writer based in Manhattan.

All text copyright Holly Reich. No part of this article may be reproduced without written permission from the author.

 

 

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