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A Garden
of Culinary Delights:
Amsterdam's Cafes and Tasting Houses
by Eleanor S. Morris
If the two of you
love food, you'll love this look at Amsterdam's unique dining
opportunities
There's no need to
go without refreshment while taking in the piquant sights of Amsterdam;
the city has a unique variety of establishments dictated by years
of tradition. Progress from chocolate and coffee bars to pancake
houses, from brown cafes and tasting houses to rijsttafel, in
a parade of exotic delights.
For a break from the hiss of bicycles whizzing by or the rumble
of small lorries trying to pass without brushing pedestrians along
the narrow Prinsengracht, step into one of the many coffee houses
across from the trolley tracks. Settle in to watch the passing
scene from the glassed-in cafes, like small conservatories bright
with hanging greenery.
Thick strong coffee and velvety hot Dutch chocolate is enjoyed
by both tourists and Amsterdammers alike. Lounging comfortably
over their refreshing beverages at round tables on the edge of
the shadowy rear of the cafe, yes, the locals say in perfect English,
this is a favorite pastime for them on a day when rain spatters
come and go.
The rain stops and it's time to venture out again, dodging the
puddles and the ubiquitous bikes--Amsterdam has 500,000 of them!
Trolleys, too: Cross the trolley tracks carefully, looking carefully
in every direction. The ding- dong of the warning bell comes from
all sides.
 At
lunchtime find the cobbled corner alongside the Looiersgracht
where Pannekoekhuis "Welcome" is famous for pancakes
as only the Dutch can make them.
From a table in the front corner window there's a wonderful view
of the canal, lined with small boats tied up at landings. The
counterman brings steaming coffee in a cup and tea in a glass,
the amber liquid clear and hot. He waits patiently for diners
to make a difficult choice. Which of the 25 varieties of "grootmoeder"
pancakes--"grandmother" pancakes--to choose? With a
flourish he serves one ham and one apple pancake, each large as
a wagon wheel, yet thin and tender like a huge French crepe, the
ham spicy and the apple sugar-and-cinnamon sweet. Each makes a
perfect lunch.
Now its time to wander around the historic Jordaan district of
canals, the Prinsengracht, Browersgracht, and Lijnbaansgracht
as well as the Looiersgracht. It's safest to walk single-file
along the narrow sidewalk or hug the black iron railings guarding
against the canal waters swirling below.
Other sights along the way: an indoor rabbit warren of a flea
market, with one room leading on to another and another; an outdoor
flower market ablaze with red, yellow, pink and violet tulips,
hyacinths, daffodils; and an open stall shining with painted and
polished wooden shoes. Then it's time for a stop at another famous
Amsterdam refreshment tradition, a Brown Cafe.
continued
on page 2
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