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Chatham,
Cape Cod and The Captain’s House Inn
by Norm Goldman
Artwork by Lily Azerad-Goldman
Many years ago Patti Page sang these familiar lyrics:
If you spend an evening you’ll want to stay
Watching the moonlight on Cape Cod Bay
You’re sure to fall in love with old Cape Cod
She surely must have in mind one of the most charming towns of
Cape Cod, Chatham, which has often been referred to as the “elbow
of the Cape.” If you look at a map of Cape Cod, Massachusetts,
it certainly does resemble an elbow, with the Atlantic Ocean to
the east and Nantucket Sound to the south.
Romantic Accommodations: If You Spend
the Evening, You’ll Want to Stay
Nearly 200 years after the first Englishman set foot in Chatham,
a sea captain by the name of Hiram Harding, built a house for
his bride, Lydia, in Chatham. The Harding's had 10+ acres and
raised eight children, as well as several cows, pigs, chickens
and apples.
Little did Hiram know that over 160 years later approximately
two and a half acres of his property would be called The
Captain's House Inn, owned by a retired Navy Commander, Dave
McMaster and his charming English wife, Jan.
 When
I asked Dave and Jan what made them purchase the Inn, they indicated
that the town of Chatham reminded Jan of the English Village she
grew up in, and as for Dave, it was like a homecoming-he grew
up on the south shore only fifty miles from Chatham.
Guests will relish staying in one of the inn’s 16 rooms:
the main inn, an 1839 Greek Revival style sea captain’s home,
the attached “Carriage House,” the 200 year old “Captain’s
Cottage,” and the luxurious “Stables.” Awarded
the triple “A” four Diamond rating since 1987 and many
more accolades, it deservedly merits the reputation as being one
of Cape Cod’s most romantic and finest inns. Where one of
the guests of the inn described it in one word - “wow!”
When people come here for the first time, many don’t believe
it. Open year round, peace, friendliness, tranquility, elegance
and the feeling that you are visiting a typical inn in the English
countryside are the hallmarks of The Captain’s House Inn.
When Dave and Jan purchased the Inn in 1993 their primary objective
was to market the property as a romantic getaway. Beyond a doubt,
they have magnificently attained their goal. Immediately they
upgraded all of the rooms to reflect distinct personalities. Installed
were fireplaces, king or queen canopy beds, or four- poster beds,
and TV/VCR combinations. A large complimentary video library has
also been provided for the Inn’s guests.
Occupancy is limited to couples (no cots are permitted in the
rooms). In addition, many of the rooms come with oversized or
double whirlpools and soaking tubs and/or two person showers.
Some of the Inn’s rooms are named after the clipper ships
that Captain Harding and his son Joseph sailed- Northern Light,
Wild Hunter, Wild Pigeon and Whirlwind. While, others are named
after Harding’s daughters, Hope, Mariah, Clarissa and Eliza
Jane.
The Inn discourages weddings, although there are exceptions, when
the wedding party does not impact on their other guests, who might
be on a honeymoon or celebrating an anniversary.
Honeymoons are emphasized, and in fact Dave and Jan have even
had the pleasure of watching many a bride prepare for her wedding
at the Inn and then leave for the ceremony.
The Ritual Afternoon Tea
 When
Lily and I arrived at the Captain’s House, after traveling
eight hours from Montreal, we had the good fortune of being just
on time to experience the Inn’s famous ritual of afternoon
tea served between 3:00 and 5 P.M. It is an occasion you would
not want to miss, abounding with graciousness and hospitality.
It truly felt like experiencing an English high tea with the tiny
sandwiches prepared on very thin slices of bread and filled with
thinly sliced cucumbers and other “goodies.” Just to
savor the famous English scones served with butter and jam together
with different blends of tea was worth our long journey from home.
What a welcoming touch!
The next morning’s breakfast feast was equally something
to savor, and would certainly win a cuisine award for taste, preparation,
presentation and composition. Something expected of a first class
inn. Incidentally, British Hotel Management students serve afternoon
tea and breakfast in the dining room that overlooks the Inn’s
beautiful gardens.
Dave and Jan welcome guests into their kitchen, and they are encouraged
to come in anytime of the day or night and enjoy some of the complimentary
cookies, cakes and beverages that are always available. Jan commented
to me, “we are not afraid if guests do hang around the kitchen,
at least they will know that it is clean.” It certainly is
immaculate!
Recreational Amenities
For the convenience of their guests, the Inn provides beach chairs
and umbrellas, beach towels, coolers & backpacks, croquet
on the lawn, an outdoor heated swimming pool, tennis rackets and
balls, a state of the art compact workout facility.
Romantic Attractions
If you want to know where the most romantic attractions are just
ask the locals. Dave and Jan recommended the following to me,
and I would have to agree their choices were right on the mark:
“The breathtaking view from the Chatham
Lighthouse overlooking the Chatham Break onto the North &
South Beach. Dinning at 28 Atlantic with floor to ceiling windows
overlooking Pleasant Bay. A stroll down Main Street on a warm
summer night and listening to the town band playing music on a
Friday night, and stopping at the Chatham Candy Manor for a fancy
chocolate. Watching the sunset from Rock Harbor.”
I may add to the list, a walk in the Monomoy
National Wildlife Refuge, where hiking the nature trails is
nothing short of astounding!
More Information
THE
CAPTAIN'S HOUSE INN
369 Old Harbor Road
Chatham, Cape Cod, Massachusetts 02633
Tel: 800 315 0728
Email: info@captainshouseinn.com
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History
of Chatham
Once upon a time Native Americans, the Monomoyick, called
this area Monomoit. Eventually, its name was changed to
Chatham-- “first stop of the east wind.” We are
not quite sure if it is in fact the first stop, however,
it certainly sounds enticing to the many visitors who are
attracted to the area every year.
Explorer, mariner
and soldier, Samuel
de Champlain once paid a visit to the area in 1606 before
there were any English settlers, and he anchored in Stage
Harbor. Apparently, according to some historical accounts,
he was in need of rudder repairs, and at the time, he called
the harbor area, Port Fortune.
It is quite interesting to note that it was Champlain, who
had been given the task by the French King, Henry IV, of
chartering the coast of Acadia from Cape Cod to the Bay
of Fundy. The result was the first detailed maps of the
important estuaries and bays of the New England coast.
Fifty years later, an enterprising Englishman, William Nickerson,
purchased four square miles of the land- mass that made
up Chatham from the Monomoyick for a shallop (small boat),
10 coats, six kettles, 12 axes, 12 hoes, 12 knives, and
40 shillings in wampum, a hat and 12 shillings in coins.
Unfortunately, for Nickerson, the authorities of Plymouth
County did not consent to the transaction, and it took another
16 years and a fine of 90 pounds until title had eventually
been transferred to him. Originally part of Eastham, in
1712 the town was incorporated under its present name either
after the English seaport: Chatham or for the Earl of Chatham.
It is a town that can easily be described, as encompassing
all that is enjoyable in life and one of New England’s
most preserved towns. There are no external neon lights,
side street vendors, and the signage is in no way “tacky.”
Its residents take great pride in the visual appeal of their
town with its tree-lined Main Street, quaint shops, and
a working lighthouse, whose beacon at night still illuminates
the harbor and 70 miles of coastline.
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