Isla Mujeres: “Margaritaville” Redux
by Holly Reich

After downing four shots of ‘fire water’ at La Adelita Tequileria on Isla Mujeres, a laid-back island off the coast of Cancun, the owner Juan J. Carrillo Figueroa, asked,” Who wants to swallow the scorpion?”

One in our group of 12 gave a thumbs up, clasped the tequila-saturated scorpion by the tail and swallowed it whole…tail and all. It was then that Figueroa told us that scorpions hold their impregnated eggs in their extremities!

How fitting. The Mayan people once thought of Isla Mujeres (Island of Women) as the sanctuary of Ixchel, the goddess of love, fertility, moon and medicine. Legend has it that Spanish explorers found the ruins of Ixchel in the 1580’s on Cliff of the Dawn, the southernmost part of Isla where the first morning rays of sun hit Mexico. The island is also a point where the Caribbean Sea and the Gulf of Mexico meet in a luminous mix of the best of Crayola’s blues and greens.

Six miles from Cancun, and 20 minutes by boat, a major attraction on the island is Garrafon, an eco-themed park on the edge of the Mayan ruins. In keeping with the low-key feel of the island this beautifully groomed recreational area has activities that include snuba, sea trek (an underwater stroll with a breathing helmet), kayaking, and, a thrilling zip-line which stretches over the sea. A couple of rounds on that and you’ll be pumped up for anything! But if you just want to relax out of the sun, there is a large thatch-roofed restaurant and hammocks strung between palm trees.

Since Isla is a mere 7 miles long, the preferred modes of transportation are golf carts, bikes, or mopeds. Sights to see include a turtle farm, a dolphin park, glamorous beachside villas and the famous white conch house—a funky photo op!! If you tuck down the sandy lanes that lead to the beach there’s smaller private residences that go for as little as $50 a night. (You should see if they are accredited with the local hotel association).

On the edge of downtown Isla, a naval base guards the port. Perhaps this is why this tiny island feels so safe. Also, the fact that it’s only accessible by boat eliminates a lot of drifters and beach merchants who nag you to braid your hair or buy their jewelry. More than likely you’ll see a local woman, baby strapped to her chest, selling hand-made ankle bracelets. The ‘hawking’ level is minimal. The proprietors of the shops and restaurants are friendly, gracious, non-intimidating and respectful (But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try to barter!).

The town of Isla feels very much like how you would imagine “Margaritaville”. I’ve even heard it referred to as a Mexican Fire Island. But it’s not that chic.

People walk around the winding cobblestone streets in bare feet, bathing suits and wraps. Parakeets sing in cages outside of low sherbet colored buildings that use curtains as doors. The sidewalks are a festival of outdoor cafes and shops selling brightly patterned crafts. There are also plenty of hidden garden restaurants with patios and fountains and palapas on the beach that will sell you cerveza and snacks.

The population is a mixture of tourists from all over the world, part time expatriates, and locals. Prices for rooms in town might range from $20 a night for two without air-conditioning ($25 for two with air), to hotels that ring lush courtyards and start at $75 a night. Isla is the kind of place where you can find yoga and meditation classes for $10 a session (Hotel Na-balam), a full course lunch of fresh caught fish, rice and beans for $6, and a nice piece of silver jewelry for $20.

We stayed on the Northern side of the island at the Avalon Reef Club on a private island separating the Caribbean Sea from the Gulf of Mexico by a small bridge. You can also walk over to the “mainland” through deliciously warm chest deep waters.

Avalon Reef Club, the only all-inclusive on the island, was renovated in the spring of 2002 by Avalon Resorts, a family business owned by Michael E. Kelly and run by his 24-year old son Mike Jr. Until that year the island was a vacant ‘ghost village’ ruined by Hurricane Gilbert in 1988.

The rebuilt Avalon Reef Club, a serene oasis on Playa Norte beach, has managed to maintain the integrity of the island. The property has 78 guest rooms in a white towered building, groupings of 56 Spanish style white stucco studios and seven small villas all with views of the water. The furnishings are tastefully done in Caribbean style with large tiled bathrooms and creative craftsmanship.

Avalon’s all-inclusive package includes a freshwater pool with built-in lounges and swim-up bar, a rock-enclosed salt-water reef ocean pool, three restaurants, fitness and spa facilities, water sports and a kids club. Three times a week there are theme nights at Castaways, the Avalon Bar and disco. One evening we chowed down on an extravagant Mexican buffet followed by local folk dance performances and a merengue and limbo contest. It helped to have a few mangoritas!

The food at Kelly’s beachside Grill (where we had buffet breakfast and lunch) was fresh and well prepared. We were quite impressed by the way the chef at Porterhouse Steak and Seafood Grill. He took one our catches (tuna and dolphins) and created an unforgettable sushi appetizer.

By the way, the guy who bagged those fish was the same one who swallowed the scorpion. He said it made him feel more virile. Perhaps legend is true…those goddesses put their whammy on him.

For more information, call 1-800-261-5014 or see www.avalonvacations.com

Holly Reich is a travel and automotive writer based in Manhattan.

All text copyright Holly Reich. No part of this article may be reproduced without written permission from the author.