Inn of the Anasazi
By Kathie Farnell
Photos by Jack Purser Jr.

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The romantic city of Santa Fe is home to a small, luxurious hotel loaded with ambiance. Inn of the Anasazi, steps away from Santa Fe's historic Plaza, prides itself on giving personalized service to its guests. With just 59 rooms, the Inn's atmosphere is much like that of an elegant home. It has been honored with a number of awards, and was named the #1 boutique city hotel in North America by Departures, the magazine of American Express.

All rooms feature gas kiva fireplaces, four-poster beds and traditional Southwestern ceilings of vigas and latillas. Antique Indian rugs and authentic artwork of the region add to the romantic atmosphere. The hotel is designed to evoke the sense of being in an ancient Anasazi dwelling; the top two floors feature a stunning waterfall--a sandstone wall with a trickling curtain of water--providing a soothing sound, while adding a refreshing touch of humidity.

The Inn's 92-seat restaurant is the recipient of a number of awards including Four Diamonds from AAA and Four Stars from Mobil (the only New Mexico restaurant to win this designation). Executive Chef Tom Kerpon, in residence for five years, cooks up a fresh and exciting cuisine which relies heavily on locally-grown organic produce. The restaurant serves three meals a day; we enjoyed a dinner of salmon with leeks and ginger polenta and pork tenderloin with wild rice-basmati pilaf. Dessert was coconut cheesecake with raspberry and mango coulis.

The wine cellar--actually a well-lit, stylish little room whose walls are lined with wine bins-- is available for private dining, accommodates up to twelve guests, and will store wine for returning patrons.

The Inn's intimate lobby, anchored by a traditional kiva fireplace, is a perfect spot for planning to explore the Plaza area. We consulted with concierge Jody Neff who assisted us in planning forays to Santa Fe's museums and two hundred art galleries. The Inn can arrange to pack and ship your purchases home, should you hit pay dirt. If you're headed farther afield, individual tours can be arranged by on-staff guides to escort guests to the ancient Anasazi ruins of Chaco Canyon, Bandelier National Park (which features interesting cliff dwellings) and other historic sites. The Inn also hosts fireside chats in its living room complete with artists, historians and archeologists.

For more information or reservations, call Inn of the Anasazi at 1-800-688-8100 or check the website (which lists specials and packages) at www.innoftheAnasazi.com

Part of Santa Fe's charm lies in the strolling; the Plaza area is made for walking and looking. Native American vendors sell turquoise and silver jewelry on the steps of the Palace of the Governors, which houses an historical museum. Just down from the Plaza, the Museum of Fine Arts is home to more than 20,000 pieces with an emphasis on artists working in the American Southwest. One of the most famous of these artists, Georgia O'Keeffe, has her own museum a short walk away.

On the other side of the Plaza, the Institute of American Indian Arts Museum, across from St. Francis Cathedral, features art ranging from traditional to contemporary and also grants a two-year college degree; in its 38-year existence, it has served students from most of the 557 federally recognized tribes.

Santa Fe is a food town as well as an art town. On our forays from the Inn, we enjoyed brunch in the peaceful courtyard at La Casa Sena, just around the corner, and dinner at Santacafe--featuring a dynamite sunken chocolate souffle--right down the street.

The city's high altitude and clear air encourages a spirit of introspection. There is a thriving Tibetan community here, and the area has long been a favored site for spiritual retreats. We decided to indulge our Zen side with a trip to Ten Thousand Waves Japanese Health Spa, located in the hills just out of town. Opened twenty-two years ago as a hot tub place, Ten Thousand Waves has hit the big time; Conde Nast Traveler included it in a list of Top Five Spa Treatments for 2002. Visitors may choose from a variety of facials, massages, and spa treatments, as well as public and private hot tubs. Ten Thousand Waves has more than 100 massage therapists on staff; the level of expertise and variety of treatments led Travel and Leisure to vote it the 5th best spa in the world.

The setting offers beautiful views over the Sangre de Cristo mountains.

Jack and I opted for a fairly straightforward couples' therapeutic massage on dry land; we could have chosen an aquatic massage or another specialty including Japanese hot stone massage.

For a romantic experience, couples can book a private hot tub under the stars; the spa is open until midnight on Friday and Saturday. Plan ahead, though--the spa is popular and is sometimes booked months in advance. Owner Mary Johnson, who is from Santa Fe, now offers lodging in nine units referred to as "Houses of the Moon." The spa's website at www.tenthousandwaves.com offers internet specials monthly.

If all this romance gets the better of you, Santa Fe is a hassle-free zone for marriages. All you need for a license is $25, an ID and your significant other. The County Clerk's office, near the Plaza at 102 Grant Avenue, accommodates hopefuls between 8 and 4 daily, and there is no waiting period. The city Convention and Visitors Bureau (www.santafe.org) can assist you in finding a wedding planner.

Summer--which brings the Santa Fe Opera and the Chamber Music Festival--is the most popular time to visit Santa Fe; the Indian Market, world's oldest and largest juried Indian arts and craft fair, draws crowds each August.

The closest airport is Albuquerque International Sunport, which is served by American, America West, Continental, Delta, Frontier, Northwest, Southwest, Trans World, and United Airlines. You can rent a car, but traveling to Santa Fe via shuttle is a low-hassle, low-cost option. Sandia Shuttle Express, 1-888-775-5696 offers round trip service between the Albuquerque airport and your Santa Fe hotel.

For more information on Santa Fe attractions, call the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau at 1-800-777-2489 or visit the website at www.santafe.org

Kathie Farnell and Jack Purser are based in Alabama and have been doing travel writing and photography since the early 90s. Their favorite topics include nature travel, romantic destinations, weekend getaways and offbeat topics. They both come from a legal background; Jack was an attorney for the US Department of Agriculture, and Kathie founded Farnell Legal Research. Kathie also produces programming for public television and radio. kfarnel@gulftel.com, www.artemismedia.org