In the footsteps of Jane Eyre
by Mary McCarney

> more on romantic getaways in England

When the Victorian novelist Charlotte Bronte visited North Lees Hall in1845, it became the inspiration for her gothic romance, Jane Eyre. If you are planning a trip to England, you can re-trace her steps and discover that this literary location is the perfect setting for your romantic break.

North Lees, an imposing tower house dating back to 1590, is located in the Peak National Park, near the village of Hathersage in Derbyshire (about three hours drive from London). It was at Hathersage that Charlotte Bronte stayed with friends. When she visited the Eyre family at North Lees, the gothic atmosphere of the hall obviously fired her imagination. She took the name "Eyre" for her wilful heroine and described the hall in detail as "Thornfield", the home of her temperamental hero, Mr Rochester.

More than 150 years later, in 2003, my husband and I decided to follow in Charlotte's famous footsteps and experience the romantic atmosphere for ourselves. We booked an apartment at North Lees Hall for a quiet weekend break.

The Hall is now owned and managed by The Vivat Trust, an English charity which rescues and restores historic properties and converts them to quality vacation accommodation. By hiring these properties, guests are actively helping to maintain the nation's rich architectural heritage, as well as enjoying an unusual and unique vacation setting. The Vivat Trust's detailed brochure and website provided a good choice of romantic retreats (including a folly and a Jacobean banqueting tower), but we were attracted to the desolate beauty, classic literary connections and history of North Lees Hall.

We followed the clear driving directions to Hathersage, surrounded by fields in every direction. This truly is rural England - quaint and pretty villages, stone cottages and cosy country inns. Having first stopped along the lane to collect the keys from the housekeeper at Bronte Cottage, we soon reached the driveway. There, we were greeted by the dramatic sight of North Lees Hall, which appears almost bleak and desolate, imposing on the gentle landscape.

The Hall has been converted into two splendid vacation apartments. We stayed in the smaller, lower apartment, which is ideal for couples. On arrival, we found that little luxuries (a bottle of wine chilling in the fridge, fresh milk, tea, and homemade cookies) had been thoughtfully provided.

Our apartment was beautifully furnished with antiques. A wood burning stove in the large stone feature fireplace added to the cosy atmosphere. The focus of our vast apartment was the magnificent drape-hung tester bed in the main room. This living room/bedroom was light-filled from the three stone-mullioned windows, with Latin inscriptions above each one. We had open views across the countryside in every direction, the craggy face of Stanage Edge cliff providing a dramatic backdrop. A spiral staircase led to our bathroom, on the mezzanine storey.

It may have felt like luxury hotel, but there was a real sense of seclusion -- if you want a romantic getaway where you won't be disturbed, this is the perfect escape.

For the benefit of reclusive couples, there are full self-catering facilities in the well-resourced farmhouse kitchen (dishwasher, microwave, washing machine -- every modern convenience), but we also discovered some good restaurants nearby, including the excellent George Hotel in Hathersage.

The spirit of Charlotte Bronte pervades the Hall and its surroundings. You can easily imagine her sitting at one of the leaded-glass windows, gazing across the fields and dreaming of her romantic hero. If you take a stroll through the breath-taking countryside you can glimpse the tiny chapel, now in ruins, which may well have been the inspiration for the "quiet and humble temple" where Jane Eyre and Rochester's wedding was cruelly interrupted. And the local legend, that North Lees was once home to a mad woman who perished in a fire, sounds strangely similar to the dramatic death of Bronte's fictitious Mrs Rochester.

If you visit North Lees Hall, why not curl up on the sofa and read Jane Eyre in the very setting its author describes. Unleash your imagination and let the literature come alive. Absorb the tranquillity and desolate beauty of the location. With inspiration this powerful, you may even be tempted to write a love story of your own.

For more information:

Vivat Trust Holidays
61 Pall Mall
London SW1Y 5HZ
England
Tel. + 44 207 930 8030
Web:www.vivat.org.uk availability regularly updated, online booking, brochure request.
Email:enquiries@vivat.org.uk

Text & photos © Mary McCarney 2003

Mary McCarney is a teacher and freelance writer from England. Her recently published work includes articles in The Sunday Times, The Irish Times and Red magazine.

All text and photos copyright Mary McCarney.
No part of this article may be reproduced without written permission from the author.