A Kinder, Gentler Sicily
by Paris Permenter and John Bigley

Hiking a wooded hillside trail that wound upward toward the stark lava fields of Mt. Etna, we encountered two Sicilian men. Deep in conversation, they did not notice our approach as they peered and gestured toward a nearby tree.

We knew Sicily's infamous history, steeped in Mafia lore, stories of vendettas lasting generations. What had we stumbled on--a hit or some other dark deed? We leaned against a volcanic boulder and watched warily as the elder man reached a leathery hand, one that had seen many Mediterranean summers, into his overcoat.

And he pulled out a pair of binoculars.

These weren't wiseguys. They were birdwatchers.

While Sicily's history with the Mafia dates back to Medieval times, today honeymooners are far more likely to enjoy Greek ruins, great food, and good times than to spot any godfathers. This island off the southern coast of Italy is also home to excellent ecotourism adventures, from climbing the largest active volcano in Europe to swimming in a sea lined with a lava beach.

Our destination this trip was Catania, on the island's east side. While much of Sicily is dotted with ancient Greek ruins, Catania's structures are far newer due to dual catastrophes in the 17th century. In 1669, Mt. Etna erupted, its lava burying the city. As Catania started to rebuild, a catastrophic earthquake flattened the city in 1693.

Like a Sicilian Pompeii, an entire ancient city lies buried beneath modern day Catania. We had a peek at this subterranean history at the Bonajuto Chapel, an ancient church built in the sixth century. Filled with Byzantine elements, the private site has long been owned by the Bonajuto family, which came to this region in the 14th century from Spain. Today Baron Salvatore Bonajuto, with his wife, Baroness Marina Bonajuto, are working to transform this private chapel into an historic touristic site with art galleries tucked within its ancient stone arches.

From the chapel, we strolled to Catania's more recent attractions. Walking past busy bakeries whose windows tempted shoppers with bright displays of pasta reale--colorful fruits sculpted of marzipan, we headed to the symbol of Catania: the Fontana dell'Elefante. This statue features a lava elephant from whose back rises an Egyptian obelisk. But the elephant was a quiet contrast to the square it overlooked. At its base sat a group of Sicilian men, discussing the day. Steps away, the flurry of the day's fish market was taking place. Locals ordered up the day's food from a fresh catch that ranged from live octopus to shiny eels to slippery anchovies.

Throughout Sicily, food is an art form in itself, and meals are an experience to be enjoyed over a period of hours, not minutes. Shops and businesses close for a long lunch followed by a siesta; dinner is a late affair that involves a flurry of courses. In our stay in Sicily, we'd had meals that ran into the wee hours of the morning, hours spent enjoying dishes like pasta cu finocchiu rizzu (pasta with wild fennel), pasta topped with grated pistachio nuts, and canolli filled with candied fruit.

That evening, though, we were headed to the hills above Catania to the village of Mascalucia to enjoy a homemade meal prepared with ingredients fresh from the garden. We were headed to Azienda Trinita, the family homestead of Baron and Baroness Bonajuto where today a small handful of lucky travelers can spend a few days on a farm that dates back to 1609. Surrounded by blooming citrus trees, we dined on traditional Sicilian dishes like arancini (little oranges), made with fresh oranges and rice, and sfoglia fritia, a thin dough filled with herbs straight from the garden, just steps away.

Along with fine food, Sicilian culture also includes the fine arts; Catania is especially known as the birthplace of Vincenzo Bellini, one of the most important of the Romantic Italian composers.

The next day, however, we were set to enjoy another type of Sicilian performance: the puppet show. These traditional puppets or pupi carry out bloody battles based on Norman chivalry. Carved wooden puppets, clad in velvet costumes, reenact epic poems of the Middle Ages. We watched a performance by the Napoli family, who for four generations have entertained Sicilians both on the island and relocated throughout the world. Skillfully manipulating the knee-high puppets while simultaneously stomping wooden shoes to create the sound effects of battle, the family members portrayed the battle between the knight Orlando and other paladins for the love of Angelica, a princess from the Far East.

As the performance was in Sicilian dialect, we turned to our fellow viewers for a translation of the drama's high points, although the action on the stage (and the crowd's reaction) left little doubt as to the drama's larger themes. Swords clashed, shields clanked, heads flew. The Sicilian crowd followed the tale with laughter and applause, tracking the puppets' progress in the centuries-old story like they were watching a first run movie.

The violence reenacted in the puppet show was typical of the island's long history of battles, bloodshed, and catastrophe, from ancient conflicts to World War II, from volcanic eruptions to earthquakes. But, still, Sicily is a land to enjoy. As the Godfather character Michael Corleone explained in the final movie of the trilogy, "I love this country. All through history, terrible things have happened to these people, terrible injustices. But they still expect the good, rather than the bad, will happen to them."

As we left the puppet show and joined the bustling throngs on Catania's streets, the sun illuminated Mt. Etna's majestic slopes. The peak, usually cloaked in an ominous cloud, smiled down on the city. The Mediterranean breeze was soft and cool on our faces, and we smiled back.

IF YOU GO

Transportation: Direct flights to Catania are available aboard Alitalia www.alitaliausa.com with a connection in Milan.

Where to Stay: In Catania, Grand Hotel Baia Verde (39-095-491-522, www.baiaverde.it) is tucked on the volcanic cliffside overlooking the Ionian coast. Azienda Trinita offers four guest apartments; some rooms sleep up to six. Rates are 85,000 Lira per person for half board (breakfast with either lunch or dinner). For information, call or fax 39-095-727-21-56; see www.aziendatrinita.it for more information.

Language: The official language of Sicily is Italian, although the Sicilian dialect is spoken. English speaking guides are available, and most larger hotels, restaurants, and shops have English speaking employees.

Currency: The local currency is the Euro. Major credit cards are commonly accepted in hotels, restaurants, and larger shops.

For more information: US travelers can contact the North American office of the Italian Government Tourist Board, 630 Fifth Ave., Suite 1565, New York, NY 10111, (212) 245-5618, Fax (212) 586-9249 or see www.italiantourism.com.

Related Pages:

• more romantic getaways in Italy