The capital city of Kingston lies on the south shore, a metropolitan area of over 800,000 residents that's visited primarily for business rather than pleasure. Within this sprawling metropolis, however, beats the true heart of Jamaica. Travelers interested in the culture and history that define this island nation must make time for a visit to Kingston, the largest English-speaking city south of Miami.

Kingston is not an easy city to love. It's big, brash, and boisterous. Crime is a major problem, one severe enough that some taxi drivers won't even venture into the downtown region. Life spills out from storefronts and homes onto the streets of this city, filling the sidewalks and every inch of available space. Goats are seen roaming the downtown area, sidewalk vendors peddle all type of merchandise from carts and tables, pedestrians are everywhere.

Along the waterfront, you'll find the commercial center of Kingston. Here goods come and go from around the world. Near the Jamaica Conference Centre, the waterfront takes on a pedestrian look, as people get out to enjoy some sunshine, to share some conversation, and to buy some local foods from vendors along this stretch. Look out across the waters and you'll see a peninsula. This is where Norman Manley International Airport is located. Beyond the airport lies the fishing village of Port Royal, once one of the greatest cities in the Caribbean. Nicknamed "the wickedest city in Christendom," Port Royal was a hangout for, literally, the pirates of the Caribbean. All that rollicking fun came to a screeching halt on June 7, 1692, however, when a violent earthquake shook the region and pummeled Port Royal into the sea. Archaeologists have recovered artifacts from the scandalous community and today shoppers can buy reproductions of Port Royal pewter plates and cups from Things Jamaican.

Today plans are underway for big development in Port Royal, ones that will once again focus attention on the history of this area. Plans call for protection of the offshore cays, development of an historic interpretive master plan, construction of a cruise ship pier and arrival center, and especially the restoration of many historic buildings such as Fort Charles, the Old Naval Hospital, Victoria and Albert Battery, and more. For today, however, Port Royal is a quiet stop, just a small fishing village located past the airport. If you're here at lunch, don't miss Gloria's fish shack. Here you can sit on picnic tables under awning and enjoy fish: escoveitch, fried, or steamed.

Just which sections should you avoid? The worst regions are found in the west and south of the city. Arriving from Spanish Town, the neighborhoods of Six Miles and Riverton City are some of the city's worst. (Our taxi driver warned us if the car broke down in this area, there would be nothing left of it by the time we could come back with a mechanic.) South along the waterfront, Spanish Town Road skirts through the downtown, a high-crime district where many Kingstonians (including two taxi drivers we rode with) will not visit, day or night.

Most Kingston travelers spend their time in New Kingston, located north of the downtown area. Bounded by Old Hope Road on the east side and Half Way Tree Road (which changes to Constant Spring Road) on the west, the main thoroughfare through New Kingston is Hope Road. Here you'll find the modern convention hotels, restaurants, and nightclubs preferred by most of the city's visitors.

North of New Kingston lies the city's most beautiful area. Magnificent homes are found in the Constant Springs neighborhood. Stunning vistas are found here, especially in the early evening when you can watch the city lights come out.

East of Kingston, the views are even more spectacular, both day and night. Follow Hope Road past the University of the West Indies as it becomes Gordon Town Road and curls its way up into the Blue Mountains. Hire a good driver for this stretch of Colorado Rockies-type road: drop-offs are sheer and there are no guardrails!