Malta Getaway
by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

After almost a week without running into a fellow American, it came as a surprise to hear "Are you from Texas?" from a stranger on the ancient streets of Valletta. Standing in a narrow passageways where the Knights of Malta had stood centuries before in this bastion of the Mediterranean, we met a fellow Texan--and one with a Maltese accent, at that.

This was Chuck, a retired US Air Force serviceman who had grown up on this 122- square-mile island, moving to the States after WWII, and finally retiring in Corpus Christi. Recognizing our accents on the street, he welcomed us to his homeland with the spirit of one greeting a returning friend, proud of the progress he had noticed here during his extended vacation.

The changes that Malta has experienced within Chuck's generation are paralleled few other places on the globe. Malta was one of the most heavily bombed sites during World War II, receiving twice as many bombs as London during the height of the blitz. Many residents, like Chuck, left the island to see work after the destruction.

Today, though, apart from museum displays, we found few reminders of Malta's turbulent 20th century but instead far older history side by side with lots of 21st century plans. Malta is charging ahead with a recent membership in the EU, a vibrant movie industry, and a booming tourism business which accounts for a quarter of the nation's economic activity and 40,000 jobs.

Located right in the middle of the Mediterranean, the nation of Malta, is actually three islands: bustling Malta, rugged Gozo, and nearly uninhabited Comino. Tourism--primarily from Brits and Europeans--may be booming on these lovely isles now, but travelers have long been enchanted by Malta. Some of the oldest stone ruins on earth, dating back over five millennia, stand here. Three thousand years ago, Phoenicians came to the island by boat to trade. Later, knights journeyed here to protect pilgrims on the way to the Holy Land during the Crusades.

Familiar Movie Scenes

But while Americans might not be hitting Malta's sybaritic beach resorts and spas like British and European travelers, we soon realized that much of the landscape looked familiar, thanks to the many Hollywood movies shot right in this Mediterranean countryside. With their mild climate, picturesque settings, and many varied locations, the islands of Malta, Comino, and Gozo have starred in flicks which include Troy, Gladiator (thanks to a replica of the Colosseum), Popeye, the Count of Monte Cristo, and the upcoming Alexander.

Along with its varied terrain, Malta draws film crews because it is home to the Mediterranean Film Studios which, since 1963, has offered a shallow water tank for filming water scenes.

Although the movie industry has filmed on all three islands, other business activity is primarily focused on the largest island of Malta in the capital city of Valletta. On foot, we explored this walled city, once the headquarters of the Knights of Malta. Just outside the walls stood our hotel, the 1920's Le Meridien Phoenicia, a short walk from the Barracca Gardens, where knights once exercised in the clear morning air.

In the Footsteps of Knights

Memories of the Knights were found everywhere as we continued to walk and explore the cobblestone streets of Valletta. St. John's Co-Cathedral brims with artwork and treasures and just down the street stands the Palace of the Grand Masters where we slowly climbed the two-inch steps worn smooth by thousands of feet. The reason for the steps' low height? So the knights could ascend in full armor, of course.

Leaving behind the busy business scene of Valletta, we set out a few days later to explore the villages and countryside of Malta. History and hedonism combine in the town of St. Julian's, home of some of the island's top hotels like the Hilton and to its most sophisticated dining scene, thanks to the often-lauded San Giuliano, serving fresh seafood accompanied by local Marsovin wine. Late night action takes place at the Westin Dragonara Resort, home to Malta's casino. The resort's unusual name dates back to this site's days as the home of Dragonara Palace, a place whose sea caves rumors claimed were home to dragons (stories once encouraged by local smugglers.)

Goin' to Gozo

Though there was more to see on Malta, we also wanted to schedule a few days on the smaller island of Gozo, a short ferry ride away. We weren't the first travelers drawn to this craggy isle--legend has it that Odysseus was lured here to Calypso's Cave. While the cave itself isn't all that alluring, the rest of the island certainly is with dramatic cliffs, quaint fishing villages, Baroque churches, excellent scuba diving, and a small town atmosphere that made it easy to like this island of just 26,000 residents. Despite its small size, the island is home to several five-star hotels including the luxurious Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort & Spa on the island's west side. Guests at the resort can take small fishing boats out to Fungus Rock, where Knights once harvested medicinal mushrooms. Those Knights were just johnny-come-latelys compared to the builders of Gozo's most historic site: Ggantija. Believed to be the world's oldest freestanding monuments (yes, older than the Pyramids), these two temples date back to about 3600 BC.

But it was our last stop in Gozo's capital of Victoria where we found just how much the residents of Malta value their history. We heard several locals call the town "Rabat." After asking our guide, we learned that Victoria was a "recent change." And just when did the name change take place? 1897.

We'll look forward to our next visit to Malta, a place which gives a whole new meaning to the term "island time."

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