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Strawberry Hill...Forever
By Paris Permenter and John Bigley

Rest. Relaxation. What better place to seek a little R&R than in Jamaica's luscious Blue Mountains? Rising high above the city of Kingston, these lofty peaks clothed in lush vegetation beckoned us around every curve in the winding road. As our car labored up steep switchbacks, we said goodbye to the sprawling capital and its urgent, urban rhythms. Instead, we were greeted by scene after dramatic scene, each framed by wanton foliage, punctuated by small villages and coffee plantations. Higher still, we plunged into cool mist, quiet and still except for birdcalls echoing from walls of green vegetation.

Lucky us, we were on our way to one of Jamaica's most secluded and exclusive hideaways, Strawberry Hill, to recharge our batteries with a few days of pampering and peacefulness amidst the cool mountain splendor. Indulgent spa treatments and long walks would be the perfect antidote to too many deadlines, overburdened schedules, and information overload. Far from the madding beach resorts, Strawberry Hill and the Blue Mountains promised to be just what we needed: sophisticated simplicity deeply in tune with restorative nature.

The curative powers of the place have drawn many visitors over the years but none more famous than reggae superstar and Jamaica national hero Bob Marley. In 1976, Marley sought the tranquility of Strawberry Hill while recuperating from a gunshot wound. The resort was owned (and still is) by Chris Blackwell, Marley's music producer. Now out of the recording business, Blackwell dedicates his time these days to the portfolio of unique properties which make up Island Outpost, a business operated by president Jason Henzell, known for his work in community tourism in Jamaica.

Marley may be Strawberry Hill's most famous guest but he's by no means the only notable name in the hotel registry. Mick Jagger, Melissa Manchester, Robert Palmer and, during our stay, models Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell have been for a few days respite from the limelight.

Although certainly not concerned about escaping our fans, we were ready for the relaxation that the Blue Mountains promised. Finally, at 3,100 feet above sea level, we arrived, greeted by what must be the world's best resort room amenity: quiet.

Strawberry Hill is composed of 12 wooden villas, each filled with antique Jamaican decor. The villas survey the Blue Mountains from bedrooms, living rooms, and expansive porches. We spent part of our time just lazing about on an oversized hammock on our porch.

Every room includes electric mattress pads to warm up the bed on chilly evenings, mosquito-netted mahogany four-poster beds, stocked kitchenettes, coffee makers, televisions, VCRs (videos are available for loan), and even CD players with a full array of tunes.

But the pampering pace of the guest rooms is just the beginning. Peek at the wine list in the room service menu and you know this is no ordinary island resort. Louis Roderer Cristal 1988, almost $400 a bottle. Jordon Chardonnay 1994, over $100. Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Robert Mondavi, Opus One, close to $300. Dom Perignon 1988, over $200 worth of bubbles.

Rich vintages perfectly complement the elegant atmosphere of the resort. From this lofty perch, the sprawling resort looks down on the lights of Kingston but the atmosphere here is pure nature. Jamaica's Doctor Bird, a hummingbird with an unbelievable plume tail, flits through the trees. A morning mist hangs over the mahogany trees. The sound of life in small neighboring villages wafts up from the surrounding valleys.

Although it's difficult to leave the cocoon of the cottages, we found that the relaxed atmosphere of our room extended throughout the quiet resort. A negative edge swimming pool overlooked the distant city slumbering on the shore under a warm haze. Four acres of lush gardens tempted us to stroll among the blooms and indigenous flora. Hikes along nearby nature trails, visits to area coffee estates, and challenging mountain biking also await visitors, who can then relax with a visit to the resort's Aveda Concept Spa.

For many guests, a central gathering point is the open-air restaurant that serves up a continental breakfast daily, followed by lunch and dinner featuring "new Jamaican cuisine." Dishes such as jerked lamb loin with a road garlic guava glaze, mashed potatoes and green plantains; pan-seared herb-crusted grouper filet; and coconut curried shrimp bring new twists to traditional island food.

But the highlight of the week is the restaurant's Sunday brunch, a regular event with Kingston society. Diners arrive at the lofty resort dressed in their Sunday best for a relaxing meal and an escape from the hustle and bustle of capital life below.

For more information, visit www.islandoutpost.com

About the Authors: Husband and wife team Paris Permenter and John Bigley have authored over 20 guidebooks and also edit Lovetripper.com, a site featuring honeymoons worldwide.

 

 

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