San Juan, Puerto Rico for Lovers

Taking a Caribbean cruise? You might very well find yourself with a free day before or after the cruise in San Juan, Puerto Rico. It’s well worth coming a day early to enjoy this historic city of over one million residents that buzzes night and day with commerce, cruise ships and savory cuisine.

The  historical heart of the city is Old San Juan, home of the best known sites including  Fuerte San Felipe del Morro or El Morro. This fort, one of the most photographed places in the Caribbean, is administered by the U.S. National Park Service.  Start with a video then take a self-guided tour; you’ll find exhibit signs posted in both English and Spanish. Even if you’re not a history buff, El Morro is a great place to gaze out on the sea and enjoy the gentle tradewinds. Don’t miss the "garitas,” circular sentry towers now a symbol of Puerto Rico. While you’re in the area, drop by Casa Blanca, the home built for Ponce de Leon.

Shopping in Old San Juan

Old San Juan is also one of the city’s top shopping districts, best known for the shops along Calle Christo and Calle Fortaleza. In search of a distinctive island product? Popular buys are cuatros (small handmade guitars), mundillo (bobbin lace), santos (hand-carved religious figures), rum and premium cigars.

Hit the Beach—Or the Rainforest

But for all its historic and city attractions, San Juan is still a beach town. Along the water’s edge of Isla Verde Beach, traffic sounds give way to the slap of waves on the honey-colored shore and the clear piping of the tiny coqui (co-kee) frogs. (It's said that the coqui can survive only on the island, so to be "as Puerto Rican as a coqui" is a declaration of island pride.)

Nature also takes center stage at El Yunque National  Forest, the only tropical rainforest in the US National Forest Service. Forty-five minutes east of San Juan, the two of you can stroll through the rainforest that blooms with 240 species of trees, ferns, and flowers. Walking trails carve through the dense forest, perfect for a romantic stroll.

Nightlife

As the day draws to a close, the focus turns toward food and drink in San Juan. Meals are late and lengthy. The trendiest area for fine dining followed by an evening of bar hopping is "Sofo," the South Fortaleza district. Look for restaurants featuring “Nuevo Latino Cuisine” as well as traditional Criolla or Puerto Rican dishes, a mix of Taíno, Spanish and African influences. Start with an appetizer of tostones (fried plantains) before moving on to asopao (rice and chicken stew) and mofongo (seasoned mashed plantains). Save room for tembleque, a custard made with coconut milk and sprinkled with cinnamon. And there’s no need to worry about going thirsty: along with some of the Caribbean's finest rums, the island offers excellent local beer and stout Puerto Rican coffee.

After dinner, the action lies in the city’s casinos, most remaining open until the early hours of the morning. You’ll find a full menu of table games and slots at the luxury hotels found in the Condado and Isla Verde districts. Formerly, these casinos required jackets but today the dress code is semi-formal, just no shorts and sneakers.

For more information on San Juan:

• visit www.gotopuertorico.com