Mention "San Antonio" and "mission" in the same sentence, and the Alamo will come to most travelers' minds. The Alamo was, however, just one in a chain of missions built by the Spanish to convert the Indians to Catholicism. The Spanish also had political reasons: they wanted to stake a claim on the lands to which their rival, France, was showing little interest.

While the Alamo is fascinating for its historic story, visiting the missions park is a better way to get a picture of historic use of these forts. Once these missions covered many acres, land that was irrigated with an acequia or aqueduct fed by the San Antonio River. Today one historic purpose of each mission, from religious to agricultural, is showcased at each mission.

The first San Antonio mission, the Alamo, was built to serve as a way station between missions in East Texas and those in Mexico City. The East Texas establishment proved unsuccessful, however, due to the French influence in Louisiana and the widespread malaria that resulted from settling in the swampy woodlands. In 1731, three missions were relocated to San Antonio, forming the densest concentration of Spanish missions in the New World.

The Indians who lived in the missions were Coahuiltecans, hunter-gatherers from South Texas and northeastern Mexico. Because European diseases had taken their toll on the native population and nomadic tribes were moving in on their lands, the Indians allowed themselves to be recruited by the friars. By the late 1700s, however, the missions had become secularized, and the Indians moved to neighboring land. Many of the mission buildings began to fall to ruin.

In the 1920s the citizens of San Antonio began to preserve the deteriorating structures, then in 1978 the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park was established, protecting and operating the four sites. The cooperative effort between the Park Service, the San Antonio Conservation Society, the State of Texas, the City of San Antonio, and Bexar County was expanded by a cooperative agreement with the Archdiocese of San Antonio to keep the mission churches open for regular services.

Today the missions are each open to the public free of charge, with a suggested donation of $1 for adults and 25 cents for children. The drive along the mission trail is somewhat hard to follow .

When planning your visit, remember that these are active parish churches (unlike the Alamo). Services are conducted every Sunday, and respectful visitors are welcome. Mission San Juan has a Mariachi Mass every Sunday at noon; it is very popular with visitors.

Getting to the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park can be a little tricky (even the National Park Service brochure warns that "the route that connects the four missions can be confusing for visitors"). The way is marked with brown park signs, but it twists and turns between residential neighborhoods and parks. Further, during heavy rains, two low-water crossings are closed, necessitating an alternate route. The free brochure from the National Park Service outlines both the traditional Mission Trail as well as alternate routes to take during inclement weather.

To reach Mission Concepción, the first stop for most travelers, travel south on South St. Mary's; the road turns into Roosevelt Avenue. Turn right on Lone Star Boulevard and continue to Mission Road. Mission Concepción is located south of the I-10 overpass.

The drive from downtown to the Mission Concepción takes about 15 minutes. This site is tucked into a residential neighborhood, a quiet place far different from the bustling Alamo area. Concepción (pronounced "con-cep-see-OWN") was moved here in 1730. Its full name is a mouthful: Mission of Nuestra Señora de la Purisma Concepción de Acuna.

For your tour of the missions, be sure that you wear some type of sturdy walking shoes. All the sites have irregular staircases and stone walkways that are especially slippery on rainy days. The missions are open daily 9 AM to 5 PM but are closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.

Mission Concepción
807 Mission Rd. at Felisa St., San Antonio

Mission Concepción is especially notable for its wall paintings. Geometric and religious symbols in ochre, blue, and brown decorate the ceilings and walls of several rooms. The most striking is the "Eye of the God," a face emanating rays of light. Displays at each of the four missions illustrate different aspects of mission life. At Concepción , the theme is "The Mission as a Religious Center," appropriate for a place known as one of the oldest unrestored stone churches as well as the oldest unrestored Catholic church in the nation.

Like the Alamo just over two miles to the north, Mission Concepción saw its own share of bloodshed. On October 28, 1835, Colonel James Bowie and 20 Texans were surprised by a detachment of the Mexican army. They fought well and forced the Mexicans, with 60 dead and 40 wounded, to retreat. The Texans only suffered one loss, further bolstering their spirits. Less than five months later, however, Bowie and his men would again fight the Mexican army, with far less success.

Mission San José
6539 San Jose Dr., San Antonio

The second mission stop on the trail is the grandest in terms of size and architectural detail, so much so, in fact, that over 200 years ago it was termed "Queen of the Missions." Founded in 1720 by Fray Antonio Margil de Jesus, in its heyday Mission San José boasted 300 residents, a granary that held 5,000 bushels of corn, and elaborate ornamentation. Its full name is San José y Miguel de Aguayo, named for the Governor of Texas at that time.

You may find yourself humming "Do You Know the Way to San Jose?" when traveling the mission route to this second site. The route mapped by the Park Service is the most scenic but not the most direct. Just follow the signs, and be patient; when you do reach San José, the drive will have been worth the effort. Thanks to an extensive renovation in 1936 for the Texas Centennial, this mission is in spectacular condition.

The elegant structure echoes with reminders of an earlier time, when Texas was a frontier and this mission was a haven in an unsettled land. The most famous detail here is "Rose Window." Legend has it that an architect named Pedro Huizar created the window for his lost love, Rosa. (When you're downtown, look at the Dillard's exterior window displays at the Rivercenter Mall. These are copies of Rosa's Window, built by the former Joske's store.)

Begin your visit with a stop at the modern visitors center adjacent to Mission San José to pick up a free Park Service brochure (a necessity for driving the Mission Trail)then start your self-guided tour of the chapel. The flagstone floor has borne thousands of worshippers, from barefooted Native Americans two centuries ago to tennis-shoed tourists today.
Walk around the grounds to get an idea of the size of this former community. Indians lived in rooms along the outside wall, and the priests lived in the two-story convento. The land in the quadrangle was used for crops. The theme of San Jose is "The Mission as Social Center and a Center for Defense." Displays show that Indian residents were taught the use of guns and lances to help defend against raiding Apache and Comanche Indians. The mission also shows a 23-minute film about early mission life.

Mission San Juan
9101 Graff Rd., San Antonio

This mission, fully named San Juan Capistrano, was once completely self-sustaining, supplying all its own needs from cloth to crops. San Juan provided not only for its own agricultural needs, but it also supplied other communities in the area. Skilled artisans made ironwork and leather goods and wove cloth in the workshops.

To appreciate the natural richness of this area, take a hike on the San Juan Woodlands Trail. In about one-third of a mile, the trail winds along the low river bottom land and gives you a look at many of the indigenous plants used by the mission.

The chapel, with its bell tower and elaborate alter, was destroyed by a storm in 1886. In 1909 the building was repaired and in the 1960s it underwent an extensive renovation. Today it is an active parish church and a good example of how San Antonio continues to use its historic structures both for tourists and for the local community.

San Juan also has a small museum featuring items found at the site and artifacts typically used by missionaries in Texas. The theme of San Juan is "The Mission as a Economic Center," and displays show how this self-sufficient mission worked with others to provide food and goods.

Mission Espada
10040 Espada, San Antonio

From Mission San Jose, head west on Mission Road to Ashley, turn left, then right on Espada Road. This will take you to the most remote spot on the trail: Mission Espada. Located about nine miles from the downtown area, this mission was named for St. Francis of Assisi, founder of the Monastic order of Franciscans. The mission's full name is Mission San Francisco de la Espada (de la Espada means "of the sword," referring to a decision by St. Francis as to whether he should be a soldier of God or of Spain).

This mission's theme is "The Mission as a Vocational Education Center," carried out through displays on the education of the Indians in blacksmithing, woodworking, and other vocational areas.

continued from San Antonio Mini-Site