Hotel Majestic: Well-Preserved

by Sandra Gurvis

As if San Francisco isn't romantic enough, there is the Hotel Majestic. This five-story, Edwardian lodging, built in 1902, is just a few blocks from cool-to-ride but clamorous cable cars and bustling downtown. Yet it's nestled atop Cathedral Hill in the quiet, tony neighborhood of Pacific Heights. So already you have the best of all worlds.

The Belle Epoque lobby with its fancy-schmancy antiques -- 18th century Chinese screens from Paris, Austrian Biedermeier chairs, alabaster and gilt bronze chandeliers, elegantly woven tapestries and brocaded, tassled sofas -- offer even the most uninitiated a taste of historic San Francisco. Sure, the Majestic has been recognized by the California Heritage Council and was frequented by Hollywood luminaries such Joan Fontaine and Olivia de Havilland as well as being popular with today's stars (Nicholas Cage is a regular, for instance, although the employees refuse to divulge more details). But the staff is friendly and the common areas have a lived-in hominess. And cocktails and complementary appetizers every night, as well as the Avalon, with its horseshoe-shaped bar and granite top from a Parisian bistro and amazing collection of exotic (but long-dead) butterflies and drinks named after same are sure to ease that frazzled, just-stepped-off- the-airplane feeling.

The Hotel Majestic started out as the private mansion of railroad magnate Milton Schmidt, who was also influential in the state legislature. However, he moved after only two years and it began its present incarnation as one of the city's oldest lodgings, surviving even the earthquake of 1906, where the subsequent fires that destroyed much of San Francisco stopped at Van Ness Avenue, just two short blocks away. Using original photographs, it was faithfully restored to its former grandeur in 1985, although it never really seemed to fall out of favor with both natives and tourists.

Along with 58 bedrooms of assorted shapes, sizes and arrangements of antiques, the Majestic boasts the Perlot restaurant with its Edwardian furnishings, high ceilings and total linen, china, and crystal white-glove service. This regional institution is ideal for that amorous, special dinner (or if you just want to impress the heck out of someone). Choose from a prixe fixe menu of three courses at $45 per, a 5-6 course chef's tasting menu for $65, or order a la carte. At least with the first two, you can circumvent end-of-the-meal sticker shock. But the always-changing menu is consistently good and usually full of culinary surprises -- summer truffle salad, baby squash ratatouille, and at opposite ends of the PC spectrum, buffalo ribeye steak and free-range veal chops. There is a well-stocked wine bar (how could there not be, given the location), with jazz and piano available on selected evenings. The cuisine, prepared by Chef Geoffry Blythe, is called Seasonal American but it's more like "a theme park for gustatory daredevils," according to San Francisco's Moda magazine.

Even bedding down for the night can be cause for flights of fancy: all sleepers have large canopies, laden with soft tapestries and covered with feather pillows, comforters and fine linens. No two rooms are alike, so pay attention to the various categories (from suites to standard), which can range from almost cavernous accommodations with gas fireplaces and sitting areas to the littlest chamber, which is kind of cute although slightly larger than your average laundry room. All are elegantly appointed, no matter what the size.

Need *more* romance? Ask for a weekend package.

Hotel Majestic
1500 Sutter St.
San Francisco Ca 94109
800/869-8966
www.thehotelmajestic.com