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Isla Mujeres:
Getaway Built for Two
by Paris Permenter & John Bigley
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Looking for a quiet alternative to Cancun? A place where
the two of you can concentrate on each other?
Head to Isla Mujeres. Although only a half-hour ferry ride
from Cancun, the island is worlds apart in terms of ambience, substituting
Cancun's pulsating discos and high-rise hotel zone with nature parks,
golf cart transportation, and the occasional sand street. Whether it's
as a day trip or a destination all its own, Isla Mujeres offers lovers
an opportunity for an island getaway with a small town atmosphere.
The island is a growing destination for day trippers from
Cancun; numerous shops and tourist businesses have built near the ferry
docks to serve the thousands who make the journey daily. Beyond the ferry
landing, however, the remainder of the island remains quiet, served by
only a handful of roads. Many local residents and most travelers navigate
the 4-1/2-mile-long island by moped, bicycle, or golf cart.
Getting There
 Arrival
in Isla Mujeres is via boat, either a high-speed ferry or catamaran. Public
ferries depart Puerto Juárez and make the 20- to 30-minute journey
to the island. (Travelers with cars can take the ferry from Punta Sam;
the journey takes about 90 minutes.)
What to Do
The largest attraction on the island is Garrafón
Park (011-52-998-883-31-43, www.garrafon.com),
a sister facility of the Riviera Maya's Xcaret and Xel-Ha parks. Located
on the southern end of the island, this extensive park combines watersports
and reef activities with cultural and recreational fun. The centerpiece
of the park is its excellent coral reef. Guests may snorkel, SNUBA, a
popular scuba-like experience for children and non-divers, or enjoy Seatrek,
an underwater walk on the sea floor in a dive suit and helmet. To protect
delicate marine life, visitors must exchange their lotions for complimentary,
specially formulated sunscreen.
Cultural activities at the park include tours to the park's
new Punta Sur or South Point, a 15-minute walk or a quick ride
on an open-air tram. This southernmost point on the island includes a
museum about the life of Fermin Mundaca, a pirate who made the island
his home. A trail leads to a sculpture garden, created by Mexican sculptor
Sebastian but showcasing the works of sculptors from around the world.
Nearby, overlooking the sea, stand the ruins of the Mayan temple to the
Goddess of the Moon and Fertility, Ixchel. For pure relaxation, Garrafón
also offers the Garden of Hammocks, kayaking, inner tubes, and a zip line,
rappelling the rider over the water at speeds of up to 40 mph.
Several tickets options are available for Garrafón
visitors. Basic packages include access to the park and pools, Punta Sur
while an all-inclusive package adds a buffet at the park's Tamarindo Restaurant
as well as an open bar with domestic drinks, snorkel gear, towels, and
lockers.
Another option for couples with an interest in marine life
is Dolphin Discovery (800-417-1736, www.dolphindiscovery.com),
located in the center of the island. This marine attraction offers three
different dolphin experiences: Encounter (standing on a submerged platform),
Royal Swim (swimming with the dolphins to see different behaviors), and
the Swim Adventure (a combined swim and snorkel experience where guest
are towed by the dolphin). Day trippers can also travel to the island
by ferry from Playa Langosta, Cancun.
Where to Stay
The largest property on Isla Mujeres is the Avalon Reef
Club (800-261-5014, www.avalonvacations.com).
A favorite with couples, the all-inclusive resort opened in 2002 on a
small private island connected to Isla Mujeres by bridge. The resort includes
standard hotel rooms and suites in the main tower as well as studio, one-
and two-bedroom villas in adjacent Spanish-style buildings. Avalon includes
three restaurants (one not on the all-inclusive program), watersports,
a supervised children's program if you'll be bringing the kids along but
would like a romantic break, a private ferry, reciprocal privileges with
the Avalon Grand Cancun, wedding facilities, and more.
Other five-star accommodations include Hotel Villa Rolandi,
Gourmet and Beach Club (011-52-998-87-70-700, www.rolandi.com),
five minutes from the ferry terminal. The property includes 20 junior
suites, each with an ocean view and is well known for its fine dining.
Romantic Dining
At Avalon Reef Club, the Porterhouse Grill Restaurant offers
a fine dining experience for both guests and non-guests; steaks as well
as seafood are served in the glass-walled restaurant. For Italian food,
Casa Rolandi (52-998-87-70-500) offers pastas, seafood, and more, many
prepared in a wood oven and served al fresco. On North Beach, casual eateries
such as Sunset Grill (011-52-998-770-785, www.sunset-grill.islamujeres.info)
serve seafood at torch-lit tables on the beach.
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