Casablanca: Here's Lookin' At You
By Paris Permenter & John Bigley

Casablanca makes an easy introduction to Morocco for honeymooners. If you’ve dreamt of the romantic spirit of the city that you enjoyed in the movie, you might be surprised to see that Casablanca is Morocco's economic and business capital, filled with modern businesses and a busy pace. Still, the two of you will find plenty of reasons to say "here's lookin' at you" on your travels here and find that the city makes a good starting point for your exploration of the more exotic destinations of Morocco.

Modern City

Unlike the Imperial cities of Fes and Meknes or the desert city of Marrakech, Casablanca is a thoroughly modern community, a place where Europe meets Africa in terms of language, architecture, and style. Modeled on Marseille, the largest port city in Morocco was built by the French and retains a cosmopolitan atmosphere, from its beach clubs to its high rise hotels. A suburban sprawl at times makes the city feel a little too much like home; couples have to do a little searching to seek out the old medina and palm-lined parks.

Although the French are responsible for much of the construction today's guests see, the origin of Casablanca dates back to the days of the Phoenicians, who settled west of today's city in what's today the upscale suburb of Anfa. In the seventh century, they were joined by Arabs and things stayed fairly quiet until the 13th and 14th centuries when the port became a pirates' hangout, the perfect spot from which to launch attacks on Spanish or Portuguese ships. It was the Portuguese who gave the city the name, literally the white house.

Reminders of those early settlers are few, however, due to a devastating earthquake in 1755 which leveled the city. Over a century later, Arab merchants cleared the area and built the medina, a site that eventually grew into today's city with its four million residents.

Casablanca Brings in the Tourists

Casablanca (or just Casa if you want to sound like the locals) quickly grew into a financial capital, ranking as Africa's top center outside Johannesburg. But it took a movie--filmed entirely in Hollywood--to bring the city to the attention of tourists. The 1942 Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman classic may have been filmed on the California backlots but Casablanca keeps the tourists coming to see the city where the familiar and the exotic meet.

Using the City As a Home Base

For many couples, Casablanca is a home base from which to explore the Moroccan coast and acclimate before heading east to Marrakech, Fes, and the Atlas Mountains. Home of the Mohammed V International Airport, the country's largest, many travelers start or end their Morocco stay with a day or two in the city, but quickly find that Casablanca offers plenty of diversions, starting with its architecture.

Attractions

The most recognized building in Casablanca is the Mosque of Hassan II, opened in 1993 at an estimated cost of $800 million. This waterside mosque welcomes up to 25,000 worshippers and another 80,000 in its courtyard. Inside, this is no ordinary mosque; designed by French architect Michel Pinseau, it answers the Koranic phrase that "the throne of God lies on the water." Part of floor of this facility is glass so worshippers can kneel directly over the sea; above, a laser beam points to Mecca. Built on reclaimed land, the minaret stands as the country's tallest.

Guided tours of the mosque are available several times daily; this is the only mosque in Morocco open to non-Muslims. Guests must be dressed modestly and must remove shoes before entering.

In contrast to this modern Arabic design, the buildings of downtown Casablanca are colonial French, many with baroque touches--not to mention some art deco and art nouveau buildings as well.

The heart of Casablanca and home to many of its most-viewed buildings is Place des Nations Unies, a traffic roundabout from which the city flows, with the medina gate and its clock tower on one side.

A few years ago, a royal decree swapped the names of the Place des Nations Unies and the Place Mohammed V, the city's other primary center. Even today, some taxi drivers still refer to each by its old name, so extra explanations are often needed.

Adjacent to the Place des Nations Unies (the old Place Mohammed V) stands Casablanca's old medina and its modest souks, far smaller than the maze-like souks for which Marrakech and Fes are well known. Here haggling is the order of the day, whether it is for a rug or leather babouches (soft slippers) or caftans, traditional women's apparel, and the djellaba, a long man's garment with a deep, pointed hood. The medina includes many scattered fruit and vegetable stands but most rug vendors and other merchants are located on the southern exterior wall of the medina. The walls themselves are somewhat of an attraction; with their gates, guardposts, and ancient cannons pointing at the port, the walls stand in stark contrast to the adjacent modern Hyatt hotel.

The Place Mohammed V is the downtown centerpiece of French colonial style, a style echoed along the Boulevard Mohammed V all the way to Parc de la Ligue Arabe or the Arab League Garden. In a style that blends French and Arab influences, sidewalk cafes are filled with local businesspeople, all in the shade of towering palm trees.

Although traditional clothing fills the markets, a quick look around Casablanca's beach area reveals a very Western feel. Pools, bars, and clubs fill Âïn-Diab, a European-style fun-in-the-sun getaway located south of the Hassan II Mosque. Thatched palapas, colorful umbrellas, waterslides, and pools cool the hottest days.

Near Âïn-Diab stands Sidi-Abd-er-Rehmane, a religious shrine perched on a small rocky outcrop that, during high tide, is cut off by the sea. The shrine is dedicated to a medieval mystic from Baghdad named Sidi-Abd-er-Rehmane who was believed to have healing powers for those with psychological or mental problems. Today the shrine is visited by pilgrims but cannot be entered by non-Muslims.

Hotels

Casablanca's modern look is especially apparent in its hotels, sleek high-rise buildings that could easily fit into any Western city.

Hyatt Regency Casablanca
Tucked right in the center of Casablanca and a short walk from the seaside promenade, this 255-room hotel is quiet and refined. An eight-floor Regency Club offers personalized attention; downstairs, five restaurants cater to international tastes with options ranging from Moroccan to Parisian. Don't miss the Bar Casablanca, decorated with reminders of the movie.

Le Royal Mansour Meridien
Moroccan architecture combines with French elan to create what's often ranked as Casablanca's most elegant hotel, located near the Place des Nations Unis and the old medina. Every guest room includes a minibar while marble baths add elegance to superior rooms. The hotel's Royal club features a private lounge, Turkish bath and sauna, special room amenities, and limo transfers. A ninth floor fitness center (which includes spa treatments) overlooks the harbor and the Hassan II Mosque.

Crowne Plaza Casablanca
This modern high-rise is favored by business travelers but it offers plenty of luxury amenities as well. Twenty-four hour room service, along with two on-site restaurants, make it easy to stay on property but the city center lies just half a mile away.

Sheraton Casablanca Hotel and Towers
Located within walking distance of the Place Mohamed V and the kasbahs, this 306-room hotel is a favorite with travelers thanks to its free time offerings. The high-rise hotel includes a sports facility with squash courts, a gym, sauna, Jacuzzi, traditional hammam, an outdoor heated swimming pool, and more.

Restaurants

With its French influences, it's no surprise that Casablanca is well known for its dining options. The local specialty is tajine, a dish (usually of chicken or lamb) named for the conical earthenware in which it is prepared and served. Couscous, fruit, and honey cakes make their appearance at most traditional meals, often followed by strong coffee or, a Moroccan staple, sugary mint tea. International cuisines are well represented throughout the city as well. "We'll always have Paris" is holds true; fine French food is the specialty of many of the city's top restaurants.

À Ma Bretagne
Often cited as the best French restaurant in North Africa, this eatery serves classic dishes ranging from duck to sole to squid in snail butter sauce, using fresh ingredients gathered every morning. Wine waiters help select the best choice from an extensive wine list, all to be enjoyed with a view of the sea from inside or out on the terrace. Dinner costs about $60.
Restaurant A Ma Bretagne
Boulevard Sidi Abder Rahmane
www.amabretagne.com

Le Cabestan
Fine French food with a seaside view is the draw of this elegant eatery, located near the El-Hank lighthouse. Dishes range from steak with foie gras to lobster, all served in a quiet, refined atmosphere. Dinner from $40.
Le Cabestan
90 boulevard de la Corniche

Phare d'El-HankLe Port de Pêche
Popular with local residents, this informal harborside eatery serves fish fresh from the sea. Look for seafood tajines as well as fried and baked dishes as well. Dinner costs about $30.
Le Port de Pêche
Casablanca Harbour

Dar Beida
Traditional cuisine, from couscous to tajine, is served with a Moroccan flair which includes bellydancers, musicians and singers nightly. Dinner is about $28.
Dar Beida
Hyatt Regency Casablanca

Sakura Restaurant
Casablanca's true international atmosphere comes out in the numerous cuisines represented throughout the city; this popular restaurant serves Japanese teppanyaki. Meals are prepared at diners' tables in a setting that's purely Asian. Dinner is about $25.
Sheraton Casablanca Hotel and Towers
100 Avenue des F.A.R

Exploring the Region
Kicking back in Casablanca generally means more than an exploration of the city but getting out to see the whole region, which stands in stark contrast to the modern seaside city. Traveling Morocco is easy thanks to modern highways and an extensive network of domestic flights.

For most travelers, checking out the region means visiting the nearby cities but golf buffs will find several courses to explore not far from the city. Golf has long been a favorite in Morocco, played here for over a century, and a beloved sport of the late King Hassan II, who even created the Hassan II Trophy.

The most extensive course in the region is the 18-hole Royal Golf of Mohammedia (Tel 033 32 46 56 or 033 32 46 66, fax 033 32 11 02), about 20 miles from the city. An omnipresent wind adds challenge to the par 72 course, which is shaded by pines and eucalyptus, and decorated by laurel, gorse and acacias. The clubhouse, which dates back to the 1920s, has an open-air terrace that's a favorite place to discuss the game.

Just 10 minutes from downtown Casablanca in Anfa, the upscale residential area of Casablanca which began as a Phoenician settlement, the par 35 Royal Golf d'anfa course (Anfa-Casablanca Racecourse, tel 022 36 53 55 or 022 36 10 26, fax 022 39 33 74) offers nine holes. The site is shared by a horse racetrack and overlooks gardens and, in the distance, the Hassan II mosque.

Beyond golf, the region holds an allure for both history lovers and shoppers. Just an hour from Casablanca lies the closest getaway lies to the north: the capital city of Rabat and its twin city, Salé. Stroll along 12th century walls in Rabat to really get the feel of ancient Morocco. Here, within the kasbah stands a whitewashed Andalucían village, a reminder of the strong Spanish influences seen in everything from architecture to language as you travel further north.

Along with the kasbah, most couples stop to see the Palace Museum of Oudaïa and the Andalucían Garden. This walled palace, constructed in the late 17th century, now houses galleries exhibiting the finest in Moroccan crafts, from costumes to pottery to musical instruments.

Excursions from Casablanca

Although Rabat attracts travelers due to its proximity to Casablanca, east of the capital lies an ancient imperial city with far more exotic allure: Fes. Dating back to the eighth century, many of the buildings of this medieval Islamic city have been preserved thanks to the efforts of UNESCO. Today couples can wind their way through the ancient alleys which form a veritable maze of commerce selling everything from freshly slaughtered meat to fine handmade carpets. Since medieval times, the souk has been reserved for pedestrians -- and donkeys -- only. Be sure to keep an ear out for cries of "barek" to warn of incoming donkey deliveries.

The Souk des Teinturiers or dyers' souk features leather items in every imaginable color. Visitors are warned of the souk's odors (leather is treated in vats that contain everything from pigeon droppings to lime), but clever guides provide visitors with a sprig of mint to smell during their view of the multi-colored vats that produce some of the area's finest leather goods.

For all the practicality of the souks of Fes, in Marrakech, located southwest of Casablanca, a circus-like atmosphere prevails. If Hollywood devised a movie set of the North Africa city, it would undoubtedly resemble Marrakech. Protected from the sands of the Sahara by the High Atlas Mountains, the city combines the feel of a desert hideaway with a rich oasis. Sand-tinted buildings, many dating back centuries, are often shaded by date palms. Long the crossroads of Africa and Europe, a waystation for the great caravans, the city throbs with excitement.

The heart of Marrakech is Jemaa el Fna or "assembly of the dead," a public plaza named for its days as an execution site. Today life, not death, permeates every inch of the square. Here performers gather in the late afternoon and into the evening; for the price of a small tip travelers can watch a cobra dance to the sway of a wooden flute, photograph the colorful watersellers with their chests covered in dangling brass cups and have a look at the "dentist," whose quick extraction skills are advertised by a table full of teeth.

But for most travelers the real attraction of this area lies behind Jemaa el Fna. Here sprawls the souk, with miles of turning walkways that offer a startling array of goods for sale. Here you can wander the souk's alleyways, narrow passageways far more orderly than they first appear. Within its borders, specialty souks overflow with fabrics, spices, meats, brass and ironwork, clothing, and more. Budget at least half a day to stroll along the displays of Berber jewelry, carpets, and the obligatory silver teapot, a symbol of Arabic hospitality; when it's time for a break from the frenetic action, take a break at the nearby La Mamounia (Avenue Bab Jdid, 40 000 Marrakech, tel 212 44 38 86 43 or 212 44 38 86 44, fax 212 44 44 49 40), one of Morocco's most romantic hotels and formerly a favorite with Winston Churchill.

For all its fascination, there's far more to Marrakech than its captivating souks. Dating back to the 11th century, the city is filled with a sense of history. Eleven kilometers of sand-colored walls surround the medina or the old city. Here the tallest structure is also one of its oldest: the 12th century Koutoubia Mosque. The square tower stands only 230 feet but the distinctive shape of the minaret has been used as a pattern for mosques throughout the country.

After a morning of touring, many lovers make an afternoon stop at the peaceful Majorelle Gardens, owned by French designer Yves Saint-Laurent. The quiet retreat is a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech; the quiet of the garden is interrupted only by a few coos from doves in the honeysuckle-covered palm trees.