Malta: Mediterranean Hideaway
by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

The Sirens lured Odysseus to this Mediterranean hideaway thousands of years ago. Today on a romantic excursion to Malta (212/695-9520),you too can seduce your heroic figure in an idyllic seaside grotto or look for more modern diversions in the form of sybaritic resorts or sidewalk cafes.

Located right in the middle of the Mediterranean, Malta is actually three islands: bustling Malta, rugged Gozo, and nearly uninhabited Comino. Renown for its rich history, Malta rises from the sea like a rocky limestone butte, a stone sentinel in a sea of inky blue. Terraced fields, etched with stone fences, carve a canvas of green across a landscape dotted with ancient villages.

US lovers may just be discovering these lovely isles, but travelers have long been enchanted by Malta. Some of the oldest stone ruins on the face of the earth, dating back over five millennia, stand here. Three thousand years ago, Phoenicians came to the island by boat to trade. Later, knights journeyed here to protect pilgrims on the way to the Holy Land during the Crusades.

Those Knights of Malta established their headquarters in the capital city of Valletta, where today most lovers begin their visit to Malta. Valletta is a walled city, protected by heavy stone fortifications best seen in the early morning light when the limestone glows with the guarantee of the day ahead. Just outside the walls stands the 1920's Le Meridien Phoenicia (800/225-5843), a renovated hotel from which the two of you can stroll through the ancient city gate into old Valletta. Here in the Barracca Gardens, where knights once exercised in the clear morning air, today couples snuggle on benches and enjoy the best view of the city.

As Valletta awakens, stroll hand-in-hand down the narrow alleys and cobblestone streets that invite a peek back into history. St. John's Co-Cathedral brims with artwork and treasures and just down the street the Palace of the Grand Masters echoes with memories of the knights. Here you can slowly climb the two-inch steps worn smooth by thousands of feet. The reason for the steps' low height? So the knights could ascend in full armor, of course.

Be sure to save a day for a trip to the resort island of Gozo, just a quick ferry ride from Malta. A favorite with active travelers, the hilly island offers hiking, snorkeling, scuba diving, and leisurely beach fun. After a tour of the ruins of the temple of Ggantija, which dates back to 3600 BC, steal away for a kiss at the Azure Window, carved by Mediterranean waves in the sea cliffs.

Returning to Malta, the promise of the night brings excitement to the city of St. Julians. Couples pull out their evening finery for a quiet dinner at San Giuliano, lingering over a dinner of fresh seafood and a bottle of local Marsovin wine. Late night action takes place at the Westin Dragonara Resort (800/228-3000), home to Malta's casino with plenty of chances to test your skill with Lady Luck.