Jamaica's Small Inns

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

"Try my callaloo!" urged Kathleen Sterling. The smiling Jamaican hostess pushed a steaming bowl of greens closer. "I picked them myself!"

We were enjoying a genuine Jamaican meal at Verney's Tropical Resort, a small inn perched in the hills overlooking Montego Bay.

This was a true Jamaican feast--not a watered down version for tourist tastes--served with real Jamaican hospitality.

It's that opportunity to meet local residents, taste island dishes, and retreat from the typical resort experience that brings travelers to Jamaica's all too often overlooked small inns. Consider a Jamaica vacation and the slick, glossy brochures you've seen at the travel agency might come to mind. Jamaica is home to many of the Caribbean's most lavish resorts, places where you can lose yourself in all-inclusive luxury and around the clock activities.

More and more travelers are finding that the Caribbean's third largest island is also home to over 100 small inns, properties with less than 50 guest rooms. Inns vary from modest properties such as Verne's to luxurious getaways like Strawberry Hill, located in the misty Blue Mountains on the island's south side.

"I am really keen on the development and promotion of small inns," said Chris Blackwell, owner of Strawberry Hill and founder of the Island Records label which brought Bob Marley to fame. "Small inns give visitors the chance to get more into the culture and life of Jamaica. These are the strongest assets of Jamaica."

Blackwell's Strawberry Hill offers guests seclusion over 3,000 feet above the lights of Kingston, the island's capital city. A newly opened Aveda Spa pampers guests with treatments using natural products. Look at the faces of other guests at Strawberry Hill and you may well recognize some. On our recent visit, supermodels Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss were relaxing on the grounds of the 26-acre inn.

You might also do a little star gazing at Blackwell's western property, The Caves in Negril. We did our star gazing in the evenings, however, staring out over Negril's calm waters to a sky unmarred by city lights. At this tranquil property, guests fall asleep to the sound of waves echoing through the namesake for this inn, sea caves formed from ancient volcanic material and the pounding surf. In the day, vacationers leave one of five hand-crafted cottages and snorkel among these grottos and caves or sun on the decks among the cliffs. A special treat is a massage in the sea cave, enjoyed to the sounds of undulating waves. Like Strawberry Hill, The Caves offers Aveda services from massage to an invigorating sea salt glow using salts from the Dead Sea.

Another small inn along Negril's cliffs is Rockhouse. Just steps from busy West End Road, once through the gates at Rockhouse you'll feel that you are tucked away from the world. The restaurant and bar are perched high on Negril's bluffs and look directly out to sea and an unbeatable sunset. Rooms here, constructed from wood, thatch and stone like something out of Gilligan's Island, carry out the natural theme of this resort as do the accommodations' most unique features: open air showers. This inn just added new studio rooms and a spectacular clifftop pool.

Up the road lies Negril's claim to fame: sprawling Seven Mile Beach. This former bohemian getaway now attracts a crowd just looking for relaxation, good food, and good prices. Small inns such as Coco La Palm and Charela Inn are some of our favorites. Charela Inn recently underwent a renovation and sports a new face. Coco La Palm is managed by accomplished chefs Bruno and Maggie Cantieni who bring to the resort's Seaside Bar and Grill a long history of food experience, making this an excellent home base for those looking to end their day on the beach with a good meal. Rooms at this newly constructed resort are large and include a mini-refrigerator and a small patio.

If you aren't looking for a beachside retreat, then consider a getaway at the charming Lethe Estate. This serene hideaway is tucked on the banks of the Great River near the village of Lethe just west of Montego Bay. Quiet except for the sounds of singing birds in the surrounding forest, this 15-room inn is for those truly looking to get away from it all. Guests don't need to worry about leaving amenities as well, however, because the inn includes a gourmet restaurant, pool, tennis, and plush rooms. A top daytime activity here is float on a bamboo raft down the river under a canopy of forest.

For more information: For more on Jamaica and the small inns of this island, contact the Jamaica Tourist Board at 800/233-4JTB or check out the web site at http://www.visitjamaica.com

Copyright Paris Permenter and John Bigley