Caribbean for Two

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

You want activity. Spirited watersports. Pulsating nightlife. Hedonistic delights.

Your mate wants leisure time. Days spent under a tall coconut tree. Nights lulled by gentle trade winds and the rhythm of lapping waves, as the moon rises over a silver sea.

In the Caribbean, you both will be happy. Whether your idea of a romantic getaway brings to mind a fiesta or a siesta, this sprawling region delivers. Year around warm weather makes possible the sybaritic delights for which the islands are known. Whether the two of you want to slip out of bed for a midnight dip in a private plunge pool or jog side by side on a sandy beach as the first rays of light illuminate the sky, you'll find that temperatures are just right. Even during the winter months, the only goosebumps you'll experience are ones your lover delightfully produces.

The Caribbean spans over 2,000 miles east to west and 1,000 miles north to south, from just off the coast of Florida down to the coast of South America. If you look at a map of the Caribbean, you'll see that the islands arch out like a cracking whip, with the largest islands to the west and the small islands to the east, curving on down to South America and ending with a "snap" with the ABC islands: Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao back to the west. The demarcation line between the placid Caribbean Sea and the tumultuous Atlantic Ocean is marked by a dotted line of islands: the Eastern Caribbean or the Lesser Antilles. This string of small islands lies draped across the sea like a coral necklace.

The amount of activity you'll find on each isle varies with its size and atmosphere. Pick one of the bigger destinations like Jamaica, St. Thomas, Grand Cayman, Puerto Rico, St. Martin/Sint Maarten, or Nassau for your choice of non-stop fun. For plenty of peace and quiet, head to one of the smaller isles such as Anguilla, known for its fine dining, St. Barts, recognized for its unique European atmosphere, Tobago, rich with natural delights, or Nevis, a tropical paradise that's been discovered by few.

FUN IN THE SUN

Ready, set, get wet.

Slip into the calm blue sea that, more than any other feature, unites this region. Every Caribbean island is surrounded by miles of liquid paradise. Whether your idea of enjoying that water means a leisurely afternoon paddle aboard a sea kayak to look at a pristine beach just right around the bend or a night dive to look at fluorescent marine creatures in a sea as warm as a silky bath, the Caribbean has the spot for you.

Scuba diving is a top activity throughout many of these islands. Here the two of you can swim hand-in-hand through waters as clear as white rum and enjoy visibility that often tops 150 feet. Travelers are drawn by reef dives, with coral mounts dotted with sea flora and fauna as colorful as gumdrops, and wreck dives to explore the remnants of old pirates ships still preserved in these warm waters.

And if the two of you don't yet scuba but would like to learn a new sport together, now's the chance. Many hotels offer resort courses and after a lesson and some practice in the pool you and your mate can share your virgin dive offshore that afternoon.

Or act out your Jacques Cousteau fantasies with a snorkel trip. With just a few minutes of quick instruction, you're ready to take a peek at the marine world just offshore. One of the Caribbean's most popular snorkel sites is Stingray City in Grand Cayman. Here you can stand in about four feet of water and hand-feed southern Atlantic stingrays that nuzzle against you as gentle as big gray kittens.

ADVENTURES

Often portrayed as a destination of sun and fun, the Caribbean presents a myriad of outdoor challenges on land as well: cycling, hiking, golfing, tennis, parasailing--just about any type of warm weather sport imaginable. The pace goes from mild to wild--whatever the two of you choose.

One of the most challenging activities in the islands is an all-day hike up St. Kitts' Mount Liamuiga. Climb this dormant volcano all the way to the mile-wide crater rim to view a spectacular cloud forest and steaming sulphur vents in the volcanic region. The hike is a tough one, so come prepared with very good walking shoes and a can-do spirit.

How about something a little easier? The US Virgin Islands offer a whole range of adventures from high-energy shopping on St. Thomas, where poinciana-covered hills overlook streets filled with some of the Caribbean's finest duty-free shopping, to snorkeling at Buck Island Reef National Monument. Here, in about 12 feet of water, swim hand-in-hand as you follow a marked trail for a self-guided tour of this undersea world. And eco-tourists especially enjoy St. John, custom-made for nature lovers, who can camp and hike in the national park which covers two-thirds of this unspoiled island. Don't miss St. John's love bush, an indigenous species with slightly frayed leaves. Follow the local legend to test your love: pick a leaf and carve you and your mate's initials into it. On your return home, plant the leaf. If it takes root and grows, so will your love.

ISLAND FUN

Part of the fun of visiting the islands soaking up their unique cultures. The best way to do that is to explore the island. Sign up for a guided tour or rent a car for the day (but don't forget--driving is on the left in many islands!) for a look at the local sights.

The islands blossom with romantic sites, places where the two of you can feel like Adam and Eve in a tropical paradise. St. Lucia, a fertile utopia, is home of the Diamond Waterfalls and Gardens. Garden trails lead to a cascade that leaves a spray of "diamond" twinkles in the air. If you stop by on a Sunday, you can also enjoy a soak in the mineral baths originally built by French King Louis XVI for use by his troops.

The island of Jamaica is also known for its waterfalls and tropical splendor. Although the north coast's Dunns' River Falls is far more visited, on the island's southern reaches Y.S. Falls offer couples a much quieter paradise. Cascading in steps through tropical forest, the falls can be climbed with the help of a guide then swimmers can enjoy clear waters under a canopy of fern.

Not every island is known for tropical lushness. Some are rugged reminders of the power of the elements and the raw energy of the sea. On the friendly Dutch island of Curaçao visit Boca Tabla, a sea cave carved by pounding Atlantic waves. Kneeling in the darkness of the grotto you can sneak a kiss while crystal blue waves surge within feet of you, roaring into the cave and back out to sea.

FESTIVE FROLICKING

Throughout the Caribbean, fun means partying and no party beats Carnival. Various islands schedule this blowout at different times throughout the year, from April in St. Thomas to August in Anguilla.

When it comes to Carnival, no island's festivities can beat Trinidad'spulsating party, perhaps second only to Rio de Janeiro's celebration. In Trinidad, Carnival is more than a festival; it's a way of life. Held the Monday and Tuesday prior to Ash Wednesday, this pre-Lenten blowout is preceded by weeks of parties, balls, competitions, and calypso shows. J'ouvert, Carnival Monday, starts at 2 in the morning as Trinidadians take to the streets in costume. Grab your mate and practice Carnival dances: chipping (a slow shuffle down the street), jumping up (you can picture that one), and wining (a pelvic dance that would put Elvis to shame.) Soca music pulsates from giant trucks while steel pans deliver traditional calypso sounds. The two of you can jump in and shuffle along as the whole parade gyrates down the street.

NIGHTLIFE

On many islands, nightlife is as hot as the daytime sun. Puerto Rico, Aruba, Nassau, and Sint Maarten sizzle when the sun sets and really heat up in the wee hours. Here casino gambling is a favorite pastime with most visitors, and you can court Lady Luck at blackjack, poker, roulette, and other gaming tables. Most casinos open at noon and remain open until early morning. Many have dress codes which require semi-formal attire; leave the shorts, tank tops, and flip-flops in the room for your night at the tables. This is your chance to dress up and party. And in Puerto Rico you may be surprised to learn that alcohol cannot, by law, be served in casinos. You will find bars in each hotel, but no drinks are served on the casino floor.

No visit to the Caribbean would be complete without a stop at some of its infamous beach bars. Foxy's Tamarind Bar is a legend throughout the Caribbean, thanks to the boaters that frequent this beach bar and pass along the word at other island ports. Located on tiny Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgin Islands, the yachties so love this joint that many have removed clothing--shoes, T-shirts, even bras--and stapled them to the posts and the underside of the palm-thatched roof. But the real treat is Foxy himself. Foxy, a.k.a. Philicianno Callwood, is a one-man show greeting incoming guests with impromptu songs that may feature a political viewpoint, the person at the next table, or Foxy himself. Sung to a calypso beat, these off-the-cuff tunes bring Foxy's loyal fans back for more.

Music lovers will recognize the name of Bankie Banx, Anguilla's best known musician. The reggae singer is also the owner and operator of The Dunes Preserve, a charming bar and restaurant set up high above the seashore. Constructed entirely of recycled ship parts and driftwood, this open-air roost gives visitors the feeling they're visiting Robinson Crusoe. Every Friday night Bankie performs his lively tunes and at other times you'll find him behind the bar serving drinks.

There's nothing like the pulsating energy found in local bands to make your heart beat a little faster. Nightlife is usually pretty quiet on the island of Tobago but once a week calypso and soca rhythms bring residents and vacationers out into the streets to dance. "Sunday School," held every Sunday in the community of Buccoo Village, is an open-air street party doesn't get cranked up until near midnight. The two of you can move to a Caribbean beat and soak up the atmosphere at this unique island party.

OR JUST DOING NOTHING

"The number one activity is to do nothing," says Tom Lewis, general manager at Ocean Club in the Turks and Caicos. Located on the tranquil island of Providenciales, this resort recognizes that many travelers and especially honeymooners are here to make their own fun. Here island visitors enjoy all that lovers could want from a Caribbean getaway: peace, privacy, and mile after mile of pristine beach.

And those elements -- enjoyed by you and your lover -- ensure that any island getaway can turn into a romantic seaside tryst. No matter how the two of you define fun, your island in the sun be a surefire guarantee of romance.

Copyright Paris Permenter and John Bigley