The Dominican Republic's Amber Coast

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

A couple strolls hand in hand along a palm-lined beach as swimmers jump the gentle waves. Throughout the Caribbean, this version of tropical paradise is replayed daily. Nothing makes it unusual, except that, in this case, the troubled border of Haiti lies only a few hours away.

Welcome to the Dominican Republic, a friendly vacationland that is frequently overshadowed by its tumultuous neighbor. Both countries share the island of Hispaniola, the second largest island in the Caribbean. Geography is about all that unites Haiti and the Dominican Republic, however. Haitians speak French; Dominicans, Spanish. The leadership of Haiti has been frequently torn by assassinations and military takeovers while the citizens of the Dominican Republic enjoy the relative tranquility of a stable, freely elected government. And while life has become a struggle for Haitians, Dominican Republic days are far more carefree, with plenty of time to dance to the throbbing sounds of merengue and to enjoy a glass of "Dominicana gasolina" or locally produced rum.

Dominicans are devoted to the proliferation of tourism, boasting close to 2 million visitors a year. It's the fastest growing tourism business in the Caribbean, with over 60 percent of its visitors coming from Europe.

The Dominican Republic has long been heralded as one of the least expensive Caribbean destinations, some sources estimating it as much as 50 to 70 percent cheaper than its neighbors. Excepting such resorts as Casa De Campo where jet setters come to relax, the island boasts inexpensive prices and bargain resorts.

Much of the allure of the Dominican Republic is its economical price tag. With the favorable exchange rate, Americans can enjoy a stay on the north shore for under $100 per person per day, including all meals, drinks, tips, and watersports.

Amber Coast

Many resorts are found on the Dominican Republic's north side in a region nicknamed the Amber Coast. This area is known for its deposits of amber, fossilized sap formed during the Tertiary period approximately 50 million years ago. The product of a now extinct pine tree, amber is mined from the steep slopes of the mountains that fringe the Amber Coast. It's a dangerous, often deadly, job mining specimens that sometimes contain plant life, reptiles, or even a mosquito a la Jurassic Park.

Visitors to the north shore arrive at Puerto Plata's La Union International Airport and journey to the resort area about twenty minutes away. A drive past fields of tall sugar cane with a backdrop of lush mountains takes travelers to Playa Dorada. This horseshoe-shaped complex includes 14 resorts, several discotheques, a two story shopping mall, numerous restaurants, and a Robert Trent Jones 18-hole golf course. Only guests and hotel vehicles are permitted within the Playa Dorada complex.

Playa Dorada is located on the Atlantic side of the island. Although the sea here is choppier that its Caribbean counterpart on the south shore, a gentle breeze makes it popular with windsurfers, boogie boarders, and families that enjoy playing in the surf. Other guests are just content to lie on the beaches lined with majestic palms.

Puerto Plata

Although Playa Dorada is almost a city within itself, guests should budget at least half a day for a tour of Puerto Plata. Founded in 1504 at the request of Christopher Columbus, this city is rich with history.

Dating back to the 16th century, the Fortaleza San Felipe still stands guard over the city and theharbor. It was built by the Spaniards to protect the city from pirates, and in this century it was used as a prison decades ago. The interior doors are only four feet tall, slowing down would-be attackers (and keeping tourists alert.) The fort includes a small museum, with a collection of period weapons and cannon balls.

Another fort stands at the top of Pico Isabel de Torres, one of the highest points in the Dominican Republic. The dome-shaped fortress is topped with an enormous statue of Christ similar to one that overlooks Rio de Janeiro.

Today the fortress is a gift shop for visitors who take the cablecar ride to the summit. The 18 person car travels up the mountain daily except Wednesday. Be warned, however, lines to board the cars can be long and slow.

The view from the summit, not to mention the cooler weather atop, is worth the wait. At the peak, visitors look out over the city named for its "silver port." While on the mountain, visitors can dine at the restaurant or wander through the 70 square kilometer botanical gardens (but wear sturdy shoes on the steep, uneven paths.)

The Amber Coast is popular for another amber-colored product, this one produced at the Brugal Rum Factory. Open weekdays, the factory takes visitors through the process of making 9,000 bottles daily, 95% of which stay on the island.

Amber Museum

But if vacationers have time for only one sightseeing stop during their stay on the Amber Coast, the choice would likely be the Amber Museum. Housed in a two story Victorian structure, the museum features amber mined in the Septentrional mountains along the north coast.

The museum was founded by Didi and Aldo Costa, the Italian consulate in the Dominican Republic. Their collection of amber is the most extensive in the world, and pieces were even used by Steven Spielberg during the filming of Jurassic Park.

When removed from the geologic layers on the mountainside, amber looks like an unspectacular stone. Cutting and polishing, however, reveals its true nature -- not a stone at all but a translucent fossilized sap. Amber ranges in color from pale yellow to dark brown, depending on the surrounding soil. A rare blue tinted amber is colored by volcanic gas. The most treasured pieces of amber are those that have "inclusions" -- leaves, insects or even small reptiles trapped in these crystal coffins.

The Amber Museum has numerous displays on the amber and provides guided tours in several languages, including English. After a tour of the museum, most visitors head to the shop downstairs (even larger than the museum.) Here shoppers find one of the north coast's largest selections of amber jewelry.

Looking among the varied pieces of amber, shoppers quickly realize that no two pieces are alike. Like Haiti and the Dominican Republic, the two may come from the same island, but each is quite unique.

Shopping Along the Amber Coast

The most unique purchase in the Dominican Republic is amber, available at gift shops along the north coast. Amber prices vary from $3 US for small earrings to $200 US for a mosquito encased in amber to several hundred dollars for large, chunky necklaces or amber set in gold. The color of the amber affects the price as well, with the pale blonde amber the least expensive.

Amber resembles plastic, so check your item before purchasing. Amber possesses a slight electromagnetic charge, so genuine amber, when rubbed on a piece of cloth, should attract particles. Better stores, such as the Amber Museum Shop, also have an ultraviolet light for testing. Genuine pieces will glow under the light. Finally, amber will float in salt water while plastic will sink.

Other popular souvenirs are Brugal rum (about $3 - 4 US per liter), Dominican cigars, merengue cassette tapes, and larimar, a blue stone similar to turquoise.