Boating the BVI

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

Mention the Virgin Islands and many travelers think of ports-of-call where cruise ships passengers quickly disembark in search of jewelry, perfumes, and designer clothing duty-free shops.

But those are the U.S. Virgin Islands. Just east lie the British Virgin Islands, a quiet contrast to its American cousin. Visitors to the British Virgin Islands are drawn, not by sales, but by sails. These small islands comprise the capital of the Caribbean boating world. Boats of every description, from the royal yacht Britannia to small sailboats, come here year around to enjoy calm waters and a maritime atmosphere.

Sailing Capital

"Because of the number of islands, the great harbors and coral reefs, this is an excellent place for a sailing vacation," explains Keith Dawson of the BVI Tourist Board. "It is kind of off the beaten path. The natural beauty is what we sell."

The boating history of the British Virgin Islands goes back to the days of Christopher Columbus who landed on Tortola in 1694. The multitude of tiny islands reminded Columbus of the tale of Saint Ursula and her 11,000 virgins so he named these the Virgin Islands.

Although there are over 50 islands in the chain, only a handful are of any size and have facilities for travelers. Tortola, named for the turtle doves found here, is the largest island with only 21 square miles. Don't let distance fool you, however. Because of steep hills, a car trip around or across the island is a slow undertaking (and one accomplished on the left side of the road).

A drive around Tortola reveals numerous coconut palms and flowering hibiscus, mixed with tall organ and squat barrel cacti. Tortola and the other islands are semi-arid, with only about 16 inches or rain a year.

The capital of the BVI is Tortola's Road Town, a small community that includes government offices, banking, shops and the home office of the largest charter yacht company in the world. The Moorings started here 24 years ago with a small fleet of boats. Today it is one of the largest chartering companies in the world with operations throughout the Caribbean as well as the Mediterranean and the Pacific.

Sailors at the Moorings have two options: bareboating or crewed vessels. Bareboating means that you act as captain and crew. Crewed boats come with both a skipper and a cook. You can participate in the operations of the boat as much or as little as you wish, and you select your own ports of call.

With a week's rental, most boaters have several dinners onboard but prefer to try local restaurants a few nights. Sampling local restaurants is easy for boaters because many have docks for dinner guests, and they also accept reservations by marine radio.

West End

Tortola's other town is West End, the ferry stop to the US Virgin Islands where many BVI vacationers make a day trip to enjoy duty free shopping. West End is also the home of Soper's Hole, a marina surrounded by shops splashed in pink, sea green and turquoise. This pastel shopping center offers Caribbean arts, crafts and more. Drop by Pusser's, a shop and bar named for the rum that was part of the British seaman's rations. You can buy a bottle of Pusser's Rum or enjoy a tin cup of grog in the open air bar that overlooks the harbor.

Jost Van Dyke

From West End you can also take a ferry to Jost Van Dyke, an island named for a Dutch pirate. Jost (pronounced Yost) Van Dyke is a real getaway, a Robinson Crusoe kind of place without luxury hotels, gourmet restaurants or pricey shops. What Jost Van Dyke does have are nearly deserted beaches, crystal clear water, coral reefs teeming with colorful fish, and a place called Foxy's.

Foxy's Tamarind Bar is a landmark in the world of Caribbean boaters. It is located beneath palm thatched roofs plastered with paraphernalia ranging from autographed boat flags to bras to business cards left here by visitors. The restaurant serves West Indian specialties like curried chicken rotis as well as burgers, but the real treat is Foxy himself.

Foxy, a.k.a. Philicianno Callwood, is a one-man show greeting incoming guests with impromptu songs that may feature the visitor, the President of the United States, a political happening, or Foxy himself. Sung to a calypso beat, these off-the-cuff tunes delight Foxy's loyal fans.

Jost Van Dyke may be named for a pirate, but the best known pirate connections in the BVI are Norman Island and Dead Chest. Norman Island is thought to have been the inspiration for Robert Lewis Stevenson's Treasure Island. Dead Chest is where the pirate Blackbeard allegedly marooned 15 men and one bottle of rum, starting a fight that left no survivors. The incident inspired the mariners' ditty: "Fifteen men on a dead man's chest. Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum."

Peter Island

Both islands can be seen from Peter Island, located south of Tortola. This luxury resort is aimed at boaters and nature lovers who come to enjoy the quiet beaches or to bicycle on mountain roads. Huts are positioned along the road, each overlooking a spectacular view of a beach or the nearby islands.

Virgin Gorda

Luxury resorts are also found on nearby Virgin Gorda, the second largest island in the BVI. The area's first resort was built here by Laurance Rockefeller in the early Sixties, and today the Little Dix Resort is still luxurious without overshadowing the Caribbean atmosphere. Little Dix is a short drive from Virgin Gorda's most photographed attraction: The Baths. Left by volcanic upheaval, giant boulders provide a picturesque contrast to the white beach. Duck between two boulders to enter the sea cave where you can wade in the cool, shady baths. Outside, swim among the boulders that form an excellent snorkeling spot.

From The Baths, it's a short drive over Gorda's highest peak to the ferry landing for Bitter End Yacht Club. This 100 room resort is located at the "bitter end" of the BVI on the North Sound, and it can be reached only by boat. The resort boasts 150 vessels, the largest fleet of recreational boats in the Caribbean. Many guests arrive via their own craft and simply dock for their stay. Those without a boat can stay in a resort room or aboard one of yachts. Spend the day in your "room" boating among the islands, then return to port at night and enjoy a candlelit meal in the restaurant.

Dinners are the highlight of the evening at most BVI resorts. Although some hotels will feature local musicians, don't look for casinos or nightclubs here. The BVI makes no claim to being a swinging destination, and even in the large resorts most activity stops by 11 p.m.

The reason is simple. Only hours away, the sun will again rise on another Caribbean day. And across the British Virgin Islands, boaters want to be ready.

IF YOU GO

Currency: The US dollar is the legal tender.

Shopping: Unlike the US Virgin Islands, shopping is not a major attraction of the British Virgin Islands. However, you will find a good variety of shops in Road Town and West End at Soper's Hole. Look for Pusser's Rum, spiced rum or guavaberry liqueur; you may bring back one liter of liquor duty free. Spices are also a popular buy, from hot sauces to West Indian mustards to chutney. One of the best selections is at Sunny Caribbee in Road Town. This store also has a selection of local art. For inexpensive buys, visit the open-air market on Road Town's Main Street. Here you can haggle for jewelry, t-shirts, dolls, calabash bags, and straw hats. The mood is friendly, and you'll be entertained most times by steel band musicians.