WINTER FUN IN THE UTAH VALLEY

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

The cold winters of the Utah Valley were almost too much for the area's earliest settlers in 1847. The Mormons who followed Brigham Young to the Salt Lake region were faced with nearly 500 inches of snow in the mountains and blanketing snows in the valley below.

Those pioneers stuck it out, though, and went on to found a city that today draws visitors from around the world to enjoy winter skiing, summer hiking, and a sunny Southwest atmosphere.

The heart of the Utah Valley is Salt Lake City, a thriving city of over 700,000 residents. It's probably best known as the world headquarters of the Church of Latter Day Saints, more commonly known as Mormons. Mormons and non-Mormons alike are invited to attend the weekly broadcast of the famous Mormon Tabernacle Choir every Sunday morning at 9:30 or their rehearsal on Thursday evenings at 8:00. Plan to be early for the Sunday broadcast, because the doors close promptly at 9:15. After the 30-minute concert, you can take a walk around Temple Square and stop by the Visitors Center where exhibits and dioramas explain the history of the Utah movement. Just across the street, the world's largest genealogical library contains records on families from around the globe. Use of the library is free, and you may be surprised to find that work has already been compiled on parts of your family tree.

A few blocks away stands Brigham Young's former residence, the Beehive House. Considered a sign of industriousness, the beehive is a symbol for the Mormons, a today it's also a symbol for the state of Utah. You can tour Young's home, where many dignitaries and government officials were entertained during Young's days as governor. The Mormon leader was a polygamist, and he lived with his most social wife in the Beehive House. His other wives and many children lived next door in the Lion's House, today a restaurant run by the Church.

Salt Lake City has two natural attractions: the Wasatch Mountains and the Great Salt Lake, the second saltiest body of water in the world. Generally the lake is made up of nearly one quarter salt, making it impossible for any life except the brine shrimp and the brine fly to survive in its waters. During summer months, swimmers and non-swimmers alike enjoy bobbing up and down in the lake, whose salt content makes it all but impossible not float.

To the east of Salt Lake City lie the Wasatch Mountains, forty minutes from downtown. These mountains are the heart of Salt Lake's winter activity, drawing travelers from around the world to ski the powder which Utah swears are drier than snow found in other regions of the country.

Salt Lake has four ski resorts, and the best way to sample them is aboard the UTA Ski Bus. For a few dollars, you and your gear can board the bus and head to any of the local resorts.

The oldest resort in the area (and the second oldest in the United States) is Alta, which dates back to 1938. Originally a mining town, the heavy snowfalls proved too much for the miners, but perfect for deep powder skiing. Although the resort is best known for its deep powder, you'll also find 39 groomed runs.

One of the most glamorous ski areas in northern Utah is the community of Park City, located east of Salt Lake City on I-80, then south on Highway 224. If you ask about their most famous guests, you'll hear names like Tom Cruise and Bruce Springsteen. The city is also frequently used as a movie location.

Unlike most Utah cities, you'll find that nearby Park City was not founded by Mormons, but by silver prospectors, who gave it a fun-loving atmosphere that's still apparent today. In the 1870's when miners tapped into a rich silver vein, Park City began to boom. The activity brought the town a rowdy red light district, complete with over 30 saloons. After $400 million in silver was mined, the town turned to another source of wealth: snow.

Today Park City is home to 5000 residents as well as the U.S. Ski Team. The picturesque historical town has three resorts, only minutes apart. The Park City Ski Area, the largest ski resort in Utah, has hosted the World Cup and the Pro Cup.

Just a few miles away, Park West Ski Area offers the most economical skiing in town, and it's the most popular with families. This resort is also Utah's Snowboarding Headquarters, drawing a young crowd to try the two "half pipes" and several miles of off-trail boarding.

On the other end of the spectrum, Deer Valley Ski Area is known for its glamour and elegance. Its extra amenities begin with valets who unload your equipment and follows through to the padded chair lifts. The trails are generally not crowded because the resort limits the number of skiers on the mountain.

Cross country skiing on the Park City golf course is easy and fun for the whole family. If you're looking for speed, try High Country Adventures' snowmobile tours. You can ride single or double on the guided tours, which average two hours. There's an opportunity to practice in open meadows before heading out on aspen-lined trails that climb high into the mountains.

Of course, Park City wouldn't be complete without its apres-ski activities. You'll find no less than 13 fine art galleries in historical downtown, along with shops featuring designer clothing, leather, furs, and fine jewelry. Leave your car and take the Main Street Trolley, which travels up and down the hilly downtown to help overloaded shoppers.

Romantic twosomes will enjoy the sleigh rides at The Homestead in the nearby community of Midway. The Homestead dates back to 1886 when miners began coming over the mountain to soak in the natural hot mineral springs, which are still in use today. There's cross-country skiing and snowmobiling on the premises, and the concierge can arrange for a helicopter nature tour or hot air balloon ride.

The Homestead is a great private getaway, but if you want seclusion and slopes, head to Robert Redford's Sundance Resort. It's about a half hour drive from Midway, or just a few minutes outside of Provo. It's the most secluded ski resort in the Utah Valley. Skiers should be happy with uncrowded trails and quiet evenings in the resort restaurant or in their cabin, most which have complete kitchen facilities.

The rugged wilderness around Mount Timpanagos drew Robert Redford here in the early sixties when he built his family home. In 1969, he started Sundance, which today is composed of a complex of cottages and mountain homes set far back in the woods. You have your choice of numerous trails on the 400-acre resort, with four lifts. A cross country course winds through aspen groves that offer miles of powdery silence.

For more information on Sundance, see http://www.sundanceresort.com. For a free packet on Park City attractions, see http://www.parkcityinfo.com.