Bienvenidos, San Antonio

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

Bienvenidos to San Antonio! Will Rogers called it "one of America's four unique cities." Wake up in the Alamo City with the aroma of huevos rancheros in the air, the sound of mariachis filling the streets, and the sight of barges winding down the San Antonio River, and you know you're someplace special.

Lovers call this South Texas city the number one tourist destination in the Lone Star State, a place with south of the border excitement combined with a Texas style. The two of you will call it fun, whether you are seeking a weekend getaway with the pace of a lively fiesta or a relaxing siesta.

Day One

Plan to make your home base at one of the many downtown hotels along the Paseo del Rio or the River Walk. This magical place is located 20 feet below street level along the banks of the San Antonio River. Nestled below beautifully landscaped embankments, away from street noise, the River Walk is home to romantic high-risehotels, shops and European-style al fresco cafes.

The best way to get an overview of the River Walk is aboard a river cruise. Yanaguana Cruises offers narrated river tours; a ride on these open-air barges is a must for any first-time visitor. Ticket booths are found at the Rivercenter Mall and across from the Hilton Palacio del Rio.

After a tour, stop for lunch at one of the sidewalk restaurants. San Antonio is known for its spicy Tex-Mex food, and restaurants like Rio Rio Cantina and Casa Rio offer tables along the river's edge so you can watch the activity.

From the River Walk, it's a short stroll over to Texas's best known symbol: the Alamo. This "Cradle of Texas Liberty" plunged into history on March 6, 1836 when 188 Texas defenders died in a battle against a large Mexican army led by General Santa Anna during the Texas Revolution. Stroll through the Shrine to see exhibits such as Jim Bowie's famous knife and Davy Crockett's rifle, "Old Betsy."

Day Two

There's no way to miss the site where you'll start today's activities: just look up. Just steps from the River Walk at HemisFair Plaza, the Tower of the Americas is a soaring reminder of the 1968 World HemisFair and today one of San Antonio's civic symbols. A one-minute elevator ride whisks you up to the observation deck at 579 feet for a great view of the city through high-powered telescopes.

Near the base of the Tower stands one of the state's best museums, the Institute of Texan Cultures. Here you can explore the 30-plus ethnic groups that settled Texas. Don't miss the dome slide show for a look at the many faces of the Lone Star State. Many days you'll find costumed docents moseying throughout the museum, ready to explain the role of a chuck wagon cook on a cattle drive or the rigors of life as a frontier woman.

Stroll back to HemisFair Plaza and walk back to the oldest section of the River Walk: La Villita. The "little village," nestled on the east bank of the River Walk, emphasizes history and art. Dating back to the days when the Alamo served as a military outpost, La Villita developed as a temporary village of people without land title. Today La Villita, a National Historic District, bustles with shoppers in search of one-of-a-kind items ranging from watercolors to glass creations to handmade jewelry.

From La Villita, hop a VIA streetcar (50 cents per ride) and head west to Market Square, a shopping area that dates back to the early 1800s. The market's real claim to fame lies in the fact that it was the birthplace of chili con carne, the spicy meat and bean mixture that's now the state dish of Texas. Once young girls known as "chili queens" sold the concoction from small stands in the market.

Today the south of the border flavor of Market Square is seen in its shops and restaurants. Shop El Mercado for the same goods found in Mexico's mercados but without the bargaining. When you're ready for a break, stop by Mi Tierra, the 24-hour restaurant that's popular with locals and travelers. While you wait for your Tex-Mex order, strolling troubadours take requests for Mexican ballads. Just as authentic is the adjacent panaderia, a Mexican bakery exuding its own tasty aromas: fresh tortillas and polvorones, cookies topped with cinnamon and sugar.

Day Three

It's time to explore more of San Antonio's rich history. The Alamo may be the best known mission in town but it's certainly not the only one. The San Antonio Missions National Historical Park stretches for nine miles along the San Antonio River and is comprised of four missions constructed by the Franciscan friars in the 18th century. The missions are active parish churches today, and all are open to the public.

The chain of these historic buildings begins at Mission Concepción, a site that today illustrates religious life in the missions. Mission San Juan Capistrano, once completely self-sustaining, today demonstrates "The Mission as a Economic Center." The reconstructed Mission Espada recalls vocational education at the missions through exhibits.

The most active site on the mission trail is Mission San Jose. The most complete structure in the tour was once called the "Queen of the Texas Missions"; today a new $9.5 million park visitors center is located nearby. Save time to enjoy the beautiful carvings and a restored mill with waterwheel.

Copyright Paris Permenter & John Bigley