Laredo: Romantic Border Getaway

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

Editors' Note: Before your trip, check with the State Department for security warnings regarding Nuevo Laredo, Mexico. The city has been undergoing drug cartel-related violence.

Laredo--it's the gateway to Mexico for both travel and trade. And, thanks to its close ties with its Mexican sister city, it's a gateway to romance as well. Whether arriving by air or by car, travelers hear a warm welcome and a big bienvenidos during the winter and spring months. A rich history, top-notch birdwatching, good value, and plenty of chances to shop 'til you drop draw travelers to these communities on the Rio Grande. Boasting 320 days of sunshine a year and an average temperature of 74 degrees, travelers leave feeling Muy Bien!

HISTORIC TIES

Although the famed river separates the sister cities, little else divides the communities of Laredo and Nuevo Laredo. Physically, three international bridges connect the two (and a fourth is scheduled to open in April 2000). However, the link between these sister cities was forged long before the building of the bridges. Originally, only a single city--Laredo--occupied the north bank of the Rio Grande. Founded by an officer of the Spanish army in 1755, it was one of the first settlements in the region. Following the Mexican War in the early 1840s, some families who wished to protect their divided land holdings made the decision to leave. Some family members remained in Laredo and others headed across the newly drawn border to found Nuevo Laredo, literally New Laredo.

Today, the Republic of the Rio Grande Museum traces the history of this movement. This unique museum, a must for history buffs, utilizes a historic structure. Constructed in the 1830s as a home, the building later served as the Capitol of the Republic of the Rio Grande, a country formed when Northern Mexico seceded from Mexico in 1839. The new state existed until 1841. Today the museum contains guns, saddles, and household belongings from that brief period.

Historic reminders of Laredo's early days surround the museum and fill the downtown. Nearby, among courtyards graced with blooming hibiscus, splashing fountains, and blindingly white walls, a 19th-Century convent now serves as the convention and meeting center for La Posada hotel, and the old Laredo Telephone Exchange today buzzes with the sound of diners enjoying steaks and Gulf seafood at The Tack Room Restaurant.

The hotel, like much of Laredo's historic district, is located on narrow, one-way Zaragoza Street, lined with historic buildings and stately palms. One of the oldest sites here is the San Agustin Church, founded in 1778. For all its peaceful atmosphere today, the adjacent plaza was the site of one of the West's bloodiest shootouts. In 1886 the Botas (boots) and Huaraches (sandals), two rival political groups, battled here, leaving over 80 dead when the smoke cleared.

If you have an interest in history, one of the best ways to see the city is aboard a Heritage Tour via a turn-of-the-century trolley. For two hours, travelers tour some of the city's oldest sites: the Old Mercado, the restoration of Ft. McIntosh, the San Agustin Cathedral, and more. Tours start and finish at the Rio Grande Museum at 1005 Zaragoza on San Agustin Plaza and are offered Tuesdays and Thursdays at 9 am and Saturdays at 10 am. For reservations, call the Webb County Heritage Foundation at (956) 727-0977.

BREEZING ACROSS THE BORDER

This downtown Laredo area, with its dozens of shops in the San Agustin and Mercado Historic Districts, has often been called America's largest urban outlet mall. Near the international bridge, wholesalers along Zaragoza Street entice shoppers with goods ranging from electronics to clothing and shoes to jewelry. Linger in perfume shops where you can purchase the world's famous fragrances at prices far lower than you might expect.

But, as enticing as the Laredo stores can be, the charms of its sister city act as a magnet for the dedicated shopper. Nuevo Laredo boasts an amazing procession of shops along its avenues. Here the air fills with the scent of roasted ears of corn sold from steaming carts, the sunlight glints off a jumble of silver-plated necklaces on a vendor's arm, a tablecloth salesman flaunts his wares like a bullfighter's cape.

Crossing the border is simple. Most travelers walk across the international bridge (parking is available on the Texas side near the bridge) and stroll to the tourist district, a convenience not found in any other border city.

In Nuevo Laredo, shopping runs the gamut of prices, from a dollar for trinkets such as yarn bracelets sold by street vendors to thousands of dollars for fine jewelry at top of the line shops. A memento of the border doesn't have to be confined to a stuffed armadillo or a bargain bottle of tequila; your selection is limited only by your pocketbook.

The main shopping district is along Avenida Guerrero, located just steps across the International Bridge. This street is also the home of Nuevo Laredo's top shopping destination: the New Market or Nuevo Mercado. The block-long, open-air market fills with shoppers daily. Two stories contain over 100 small shops selling everything from jewelry to serapes to onyx chess sets.

FUN AND FIESTA

"Happy birthday to you...happy birthday to you...happy birthday George Washington..."

What? Yes, Laredo is home to one of the unlikeliest, and largest, birthday parties in the nation. The guest of honor is George Washington and in the sister cities of Laredo and Nuevo Laredo his birthday is not just a holiday, it's a full blown fiesta.

This year's party stretches through much of February. Billed as the largest observance of George Washington's Birthday in the nation, the festival expects to draw close to 250,000 partygoers.

For over a century, the towns have celebrated every February with the George Washington Birthday celebration as a way to spread international goodwill between the neighboring countries. In 1898 a Laredo men's organization, the Red Men and the White Men, held a mock battle representing a fight for possession of the city, one that culminated in an unconditional surrender when the Mayor gave the key to the city to Great Chief Sachem.

How does this relate to George Washington? Coincidentally, the American leader was named Sachem by the Sons of Liberty when they disguised themselves as Indians during their battle for freedom. Because of this, the Laredo organization picked the first president's birthday as the occasion for the remembrance of this event.

Today George Washington's Birthday has grown into South Texas' largest event, with activities for every age group. Sporting events, a children's carnival, dances, parades, and gala balls fill the entire month with revelry.

The fun really gears up in early February with the start of the Washington's Birthday Celebration Association (WBCA) Carnival, thrilling children of all ages with rides and games.

For all its fun, food, and fireworks, the event is also noted because of its elegant balls.The Princess Pocahontas Pageant and Ball features Laredo debutantes wearing Native American regalia, with some gowns taking as long as two years to research and prepare.

For all its gaiety, however, there is a serious side to this event, and that is evidenced at the International Bridge Ceremony, beginning with a symbolic abrazo or hug when two Laredo children embrace two Nuevo Laredo youths; leaders from the two cities then follow and unite on the international bridge. The event continues with the playing of both national anthems and the remembrance of the friendship between the two nations. The ceremony is followed by a spectacular parade.

For more information about the George Washington Birthday Celebration, call the Laredo Convention and Visitors Bureau at 1-800-361-3360.

OUTDOOR FUN

Beyond the city streets lies a whole other side to Laredo--a place filled with desert wildlife, walking trails, fish-filled lakes and more. The Brush Country offers plenty of winter activities for travelers, regardless of their interest.

Birders find over 300 species on record in the brush country including several rare species such as the white-collared seedeater, the red-billed pigeon, and the gray-crowned yellowthroat. Some popular sightings include the long-billed dowitcher, the purple martin, and the green kingfisher.

More interested in marine life? Anglers find plenty of challenge at Lake Casa Blanca, located east of the city. This man-made lake is filled with black bass as well as blue and yellow catfish. The lake is also popular for boating, sailing, and picnicking. Not far from the lake lies the CasaBlanca Lake Golf Course, an 18-hole challenge that you can play year around.

And don't forget your walking shoes. Texas A&M International University and Laredo Community College have designated walking trails in the area that take in riverfront property as well as brush country.

REACHING THE STREETS OF LAREDO

By Car: From Louisiana, the drive to Laredo is easy on I-10 to San Antonio then I-35 to the border.

By Plane: American Eagle from DFW and Continental Express from Houston provide service to the city's new Laredo International Airport.

Hotels: Don't worry about having to sleep in the streets of Laredo--you'll find over 2800 hotel and motel rooms in the city including chains such as Holiday Inn, La Quinta, Courtyard by Marriott, Motel 6, Hampton Inn and more. Within walking distance of the border lie La Posada Hotel/Suites and Howard Johnson. The Laredo Convention and Visitors Bureau has a complete list of accommodations.

Crossing the Border: Pedestrians can cross on International Bridge Number 1, located at the south end of Convent Street. Bring some change for the bridge toll both coming and going. On the Texas side, you'll find free parking in the public lot just below the bridge at Salinas Avenue and Water Street.

If you would like to take your car into Nuevo Laredo, you can drive across either Bridge 1 or Bridge 2. You will pay a bridge toll both ways. Upon return, leave plenty of time to reenter Texas (you'll be joining 12,000 other cars entering Laredo that day!)

Returning From Mexico: Travelers can return with up to $400 worth of goods duty free; you'll be charged a 10% tax on the next $1000 worth of purchases. You can bring back one carton of cigarettes every 30 days and one quart or one liter of alcohol duty free.

Currency: You'll find currency exchange houses (cambios) on both sides of the border but you can use US dollars in most Nuevo Laredo stores and restaurants. Most establishments also accept major credit cards.

For More Information: Contact the Laredo Convention and Visitors Bureau, 1-800-361-3360, Fax (956) 795-2185 or write 501 San Agustin, Laredo, Texas 78040. If you're on the internet, you'll find visitor information on accommodations, dining, shopping, and more at the official website: http://www.visitlaredo.com.