Texas Hill Country

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

Texas' richest vacation region was formed in less time than it takes to describe it. The Hill Country, a scenic area north and west of San Antonio, was shaped 30 million years ago by a violent 3-1/2 minute earthquake. The convulsion buckled the earth and kicked up strata of limestone and granite into rugged hills and steep cliffs.

The jagged scar of the event, the Balcones Escarpment, zigzags down the state, marking the frontier between flat farmland toward the east and rugged ranches to the west. Cotton and cornfields give way to hillsides dotted with limestone scrabble, textured by juniper and majestic live oaks, and tinted year around by wildflowers.

The Hill Country is the true heart of Texas, and it's one of the state's favorite vacation getaways. Ranches, wineries, state parks, resorts, and antique shops tempt travelers to break away for a couple of days of country fun.

HEAD TO THE LAKES

An earthquake may have formed the Hill Country but it took an act of Congress to put the finishing touches on the landscape. In the 1930s, the Highland Lakes project brought the region electricity, eased flooding worries, and eventually provided travelers with over 150 miles of water recreation.

Much of the lakeside attractions are found near Burnet (512-756-4297), located just outside Lake Buchanan, the granddaddy of the Highland Lakes. Contained by one of the largest multiple-arch dams in the world, this lake spans over 30 miles in length and eight miles in width. One of the most popular ways to view the lake is aboard the Vanishing Texas River Cruise. Cold-weather cruises feature a look at American bald eagles who nest along the river's bluffs.

The cruise passes by the Falls Creek Vineyards, located in the community of Tow (rhymes with cow). Save time after your cruise to return to the winery for a tour and taste of this award-winning product. Another popular stop in the Burnet region is Longhorn Cavern State Park where guided tours wind through cool passageways.

This area is also a favorite with freshwater anglers. Many travelers enjoy spending a few days along the lake shores in cottages for rent by the day or week. Lake Buchanan, Inks Lake, Lake LBJ, Lake Marble Falls, and Lake Travis each offer quiet coves and a chance to catch black bass, white bass, crappie, catfish, and perch.

COWBOY FUN

For many vacationers the Texas Hill Country is synonymous with cowboys. When you're ready to throw on your 10-gallon hat, the communities of Kerrville and Bandera are excellent destinations. Just one hour's drive from San Antonio on I-10 lies Kerrville (800-221-7958), a Hill Country community with a little bit of everything: cowboy fun, fine art, beautiful parks, and more. The rolling hills etched with streams and rivers shaded by tall cypress tress have been the inspiration of many artists, so it's not surprising that this community is home to many internationally recognized artists. For a look at more Western art, pay a visit to the Cowboy Artists of America Museum. This hilltop museum features work by members of the Cowboy Artists of America. Western-themed paintings and sculpture fill the collection.

The best known ranch in this region is the Y.O. Ranch, started by Charles Schreiner as a young man in the 1850s. At its peak, the Y.O. Ranch grew to over 600,000 acres, covering a distance of 80 miles. Today you can visit and tour the Y.O. or, to learn more about the history of the ranch and how it helped shaped Kerrville, stop by the Hill Country Museum, located at 226 Earl Garrett Street.

Or, if you'd like to be a cowboy for a while, head over to Bandera. Well known for its plentiful dude ranches, country-western music, rodeos, and horse racing, Bandera is called "The Cowboy Capital of the World." The country around Bandera is dotted with dude ranches. Rates usually include three meals daily as well as family-style entertainment and supervised children's programs. Horseback riding is often part of the week-long package. For a complete listing of Bandera's dude ranches, as well as other accommodations and campgrounds, call the Bandera Convention and Visitors Bureau at 800/364-3833.

HILL COUNTRY HISTORY

LBJ brought the attention of the world to his hometown, located on US 281. This day trip makes an excellent choice for families looking for educational fun or for those who just want to soak up some small town atmosphere.

Your first stop in Johnson City (830-868-7684) will probably be the LBJ Boyhood Home, managed by the U.S. Park Service. LBJ was five years old in 1913 when his family moved from their country home near the Pedernales River to this simple frame house. Nearby, the Visitors Center provides information on this location, nearby Johnson Settlement, and other LBJ attractions.

After a tour, head west on US 290 to the tiny community of Stonewall, the home of the LBJ National and State Historic Parks which include the Visitors Center, the LBJ ranch and tour, and the Sauer-Beckman Farm. Guided bus tours of the LBJ Ranch travel across the president's ranch, making a stop at the one-room Junction School where Johnson began his education. The bus slows down for a photo of the Texas White House then continues past the president's airstrip and cattle barns. Near the end of the tour, the bus makes an optional stop at the Sauer-Beckman Living Historical Farm where children can pet the farm animals.

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

West of Stonewall lies the community of Fredericksburg (830-997-6523), a favorite stop for weekend shoppers. Dozens of one-of-a-kind boutiques line busy Main Street but there's plenty of history here as well. The Admiral Nimitz State Historical Park at 340 East Main Street recalls the career of Admiral Chester Nimitz, World War II Commander-in-Chief of the Pacific (CinCPac). Fredericksburg's most famous resident commanded 2.5 million troops after the attack on Pearl Harbor until the Japanese surrendered.

Every fall, Fredericksburg celebrates with Oktoberfest at Market Square. A week later, Fredericksburg visitors will have the opportunity to shop for one-of-a-kind woodwork at the annual Mesquite Art Festival. At the end of the month, the Fredericksburg Food and Wine Fest will highlight the top wineries of Texas. Along with award-winning vineyards, the event will showcase over 40 vendors who offer a taste of Texas through spices, salsas, cheeses, and more.

Fredericksburg is also the capital city of Texas bed-and-breakfast inns. Over 200 B&B accommodations are located in Gillespie County in everything from Sunday houses to local farmhouses to residences just off Main Street.

Autumn is an excellent time to have a look at the biggest attraction in the Fredericksburg area: Enchanted Rock State Natural Area. Looming over the Texas hillside like a massive bald mountain, this enormous dome of pink granite rises 325 feet above the small stream flowing at its base. Covering over a square mile, the formation is second in size only to Georgia's Stone Mountain. The park is a favorite playground for rock climbers, backpackers, and even sedentary tourists who don't mind a lung-expanding walk up the dome for a look at mile after mile of the Texas Hill Country.

Copyright Paris Permenter & John Bigley