Del Rio: Border Vacation

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

It calls itself "the best of the border," and with a quick look around Del Rio, Texas it's easy to see why. Whether your idea of a getaway means shopping or swimming, hiking or hunting, Del Rio's got something to offer. This trip is best enjoyed as a weekend getaway, with time to enjoy romantic bed and breakfasts, remote campgrounds, and family-friendly houseboats.

It's a quick 120 mile drive down US 90 from San Antonio to Brackettville, located near Del Rio. Brackettville is the home of the Alamo Village family amusement park. Remember John Wayne's version of The Alamo? It was filmed here in a replica of the Texas shrine that you can still tour today. Alamo Village is sometimes called the movie capital of Texas, and for good reason. Walk among its streets and you'll recognize buildings used in commercials, television shows, and many movies, as well as the popular mini-series "Lonesome Dove."

The village also includes a Wild West town, used frequently as a movie and TV set. Don't be surprised to see familiar faces here; the park remains open even when movies are being shot. Take a tour of the buildings, some featuring movable walls to facilitate the work of film crews.

Continuing west you'll soon reach Del Rio. From the moment you see Del Rio, you'll realize that this city is different. Perched at the edge of the Chihuahuan desert, the city is an oasis lush with vegetation thanks to the San Felipe Springs, artesian wells gushing over 90 million gallons of water through the town daily. Many travelers may remember last year's flood in this area, but Susan Cottle Leonard, Tourism and Convention Director for the Del Rio Chamber of Commerce, notes the city is as good as new.

Del Rio's many attractions are found throughout the city and the surrounding area. A favorite stop with many couples is the Val Verde Winery, the first in Texas. Founder Frank Qualia was reminded of his homeland of Italy by Del Rio area so he started his own winery in 1883. It survived through Prohibition (producing sacramental and "medicinal" wines), and today the Val Verde Winery is operated by fifth generation vintner Frank Qualia. Stop by for free samples of excellent Texas wines and a tour of the historic facility.

For another look at the founding residents of Del Rio, visit the Whitehead Memorial Museum. This collection of early area buildings includes a replica of the Jersey Lilly, the infamous saloon where Judge Roy Bean dispensed his frontier justice. (The original Jersey Lilly is located northwest of Del Rio in Langtry.) Behind the saloon replica lie the graves of Judge Bean and his son, Sam.

Almost every Del Rio visitor takes at least a short trip to Ciudad Acuña, Mexico, located directly across the border. Some of the best buys are silver jewelry, blankets, leather goods, Mexican liquor, and beautifully embroidered Mexican dresses.

Del Rio and Ciudad Acuña are separated by the Rio Grande, one of three rivers that form Lake Amistad. Amistad, derived from the Spanish word for friendship, was a joint project between Mexico and the US. The lake offers 1000 miles of shoreline, tempting fishermen with bass, crappie, catfish, and striper. Separate fishing licenses are required for Mexican and American sides of the lake.

The best way to see the lake is aboard a boat, and the most luxurious ride is aboard a houseboat. With innumerable coves tucked inside sheer canyon walls, houseboaters can find seclusion as well as some beautiful, spring-fed swimming holes. Houseboats sleeping 4-12 people are rented by Lake Amistad Resort and Marina, a short drive from Del Rio. Landlubbers will also find that Del Rio is home to plenty of family hotels and motels as well as a romantic bed and breakfast inn. Elegant accommodations harking back to the 19th century are found at Villa Del Rio.

Northwest of Del about nine miles past the town of Comstock lies a must-see attraction: Seminole Canyon.

Archaeologists believe the early residents of Seminole Canyon were hunter-gatherers, living on plants and small animals. Hunting was limited to deer and rabbits, and instead the Indians survived as foragers, living on sotol, prickly pear, and lechugilla. The culture that made its home in this canyon produced the artwork now seen on guided tours. Sign up at the Visitors Center for the ranger led walk to the Fate Bell Shelter. This rock overhang boasts the oldest rock art in North America, ochre, black and white paintings. One painting, known as the three shamans, portrays three figures, one with antlers atop his head. This park has some quiet camp sites located high above the canyon. They offer a spectacular view of the Chihuahuan Desert, dotted with cactus and populated with numerous bird species.

For more information on Del Rio area attractions, call the Del Rio Chamber of Commerce at (800) 889-8149 or see www.drchamber.com.