Striking Gold in Deadwood

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

Try your luck in one of the casinos of this Wild West town or just enjoy an atmosphere that's straight out of the gold rush days...

For years couples have come to the Black Hills of South Dakota. Today they travel here to camp, to view man-made wonders like Mount Rushmore, and to enjoy a Western atmosphere in the rolling hills.

But a century ago, it was gold that drew travelers to these hills. Although rumors of the valuable ore had floated through the Dakota Territory for years, it was not until 1874 that an expedition led by General George Custer confirmed the presence of gold.

Soon the land that had once been promised to the Sioux Indians was claimed by the United States. Prospectors and settlers moved into the Dakota Territory, quickly building towns near the mining areas. Almost overnight, the community of Deadwood sprang up near Deadwood Gulch, named for the fallen timber that dotted the hills. The town provided services to men who combed the hills for that elusive lucky strike.

Today things are a little calmer in Deadwood. Nonetheless, there's still gold here. It's found both in gold mines like The Homestead, the largest underground gold mine in the Western hemisphere and in historic attractions that bring back the atmosphere of the Wild West.

Less than a decade ago, much of Deadwood's downtown area had fallen victim to fire or had crumbled to the point of being unsafe. Today, those old buildings have been given a facelift and contain small casinos, western wear boutiques, jewelry stores selling Black Hills Gold, and restaurants. The streets are now paved with brick, a bus recreating the city's old trolley bus system shuttles shoppers, and the historic district is lit with old-fashioned street lighting. A million dollar visitors center resides in the old railroad depot where you can get maps, brochures, and schedules of Deadwood's many activities.

Much of the restoration of these historic buildings has been funded by the proceeds of Deadwood's small casinos. Visitors can enjoy limited stakes gambling in an authentic Wild West atmosphere where everyone from waitresses to card dealers wears colorful period clothing.

One such place is the Midnight Star, owned by actor Kevin Costner and his brother Dan. The star of Dances with Wolves fell in love with Deadwood while he was shooting the film and acquired the three story historic site. The movie's costume designer has created period costumes for the Midnight Star staff reflecting Deadwood's heyday years. The building is decorated with costumes, props and paraphernalia from Costner's movie career. The Costner brothers even went one step further to personalize the place: they named sandwiches and appetizers in their Diamond Lil's restaurant after family, friends and movie characters.

Down the street stands one of the most famous spots in town: Saloon No. 10. Ever heard of the "deadman's hand"? It's black aces and eights, the poker hand Wild Bill Hickok was holding when he was shot to death in Saloon No. 10. Today the saloon (which still sports a sawdust sprinkled floor) has its own museum, complete with the chair where Wild Bill played his final poker hand. Saloon No. 10 says it's the only museum in the world with a bar.

Wild Bill had a career as an Army scout and a U.S. Marshall and was best known for his skill with both pistols and shotguns. An instinctive shooter, the "Prince of the Pistoliers," as he was known, lived by certain rules. He always walked down the middle of the street, he always poured whiskey with his left hand to keep his shooting arm free, and he always sat with his back to the wall.

On August 2, 1876, Wild Bill entered Saloon No. 10 and violated one of his own rules. He asked for a wall chair, but when the other men at the poker table, among them a Captain Massey, teased Wild Bill he sat with his back to the front door.

While in the middle of the game, Wild Bill was shot in the head by local rogue, Jack McCall. The bullet exited the gambler's right cheek and went into the arm of Captain Massey, lodging in his wrist. There the bullet remained for the rest of Massey's life. The captain later was known to wave and announce, "Here comes the bullet that killed Wild Bill Hickok. Shake my hand and let me tell you the story."

Today you can hear the story of Wild Bill's murder at the nightly play, "The Trial of Jack McCall." The action begins in the afternoon on the Deadwood streets when an actor portraying Jack McCall runs out of Saloon No. 10 and amidst gunfire is captured and taken to jail. That night, you can watch the trial in the Old Town Hall where the original trial took place.

All of Deadwood's colorful characters now lie on Mt. Moriah, a hillside cemetery high over the city. Bus tours make a stop here, and travelers can walk around in the cool shade and find the headstones of the early residents.

Wild Bill lies in a simple grave here, and beside him rests Calamity Jane, one of the best known citizens of Deadwood. Calamity Jane came to the town with a bull train after performing in Wild West shows. She claimed to be Wild Bill's sweetheart (reportedly a one-sided relationship). Although they were never together in life, Calamity Jane's final wish was to be buried next to the man she always loved.

Because of Deadwood's rising fortunes, other colorful characters found their way to the South Dakota frontier town. These residents included Potato Creek Johnny, who reportedly found a seven-ounce gold nugget in the hills, Poker Alice, a cigar-smoking poker dealer, and Colorado Charley Utter, credited with bringing the most famous wagon train to the Gulch in 1876, accompanied by 180 gamblers, saloon girls, madams, piano players, banjo pickers and fiddlers, as well as 37,000 pounds of flour.

The saloons that once filled Main street were lively with musical talent, comedies, and theater, offering so much variety that Deadwood was considered the entertainment capital of the Plains. Today Deadwood still works to hold onto that title with nightly revues featuring dancing girls, vaudeville shows, and country music.

One of the thousands of claims was for a stake on a mountain ridge that separates Deadwood from the town of Lead (pronounced LEED). Three California investors, including George Hearst, founded the Homestake Mine in 1876. Today it's the largest gold producing underground mine in the western hemisphere and the oldest continually operated gold mine in the world.

The Homestake still brings out ore, and it also offers travelers the chance to see a gold mine in operation. The Sinking Gardens (a city park that actually started to sink because of the many mine tunnels below) offers picnic grounds, gardens, and mining displays. During the summer months, there's a surface tour of the mine as well.

If you'd like a look at underground mining operations, head to the Broken Boot Hill Gold Mine. Guided tours of the 100-year-old mine are offered during the summer, and you'll come away with a piece of gold-bearing ore and an appreciation for the back-breaking work those early prospectors endured. You can also have a look at this difficult profession at the Black Hills Mining Museum in Lead. Here your guide will take you down a simulated hardrock mine through timbered passages. You'll see a simulated blast and even have a chance to pan for some gold of your own.

For most travelers, the real gold lies in the community of Deadwood itself. With its authentic Old West atmosphere and its beautiful surroundings, every Deadwood vacationer is sure to strike pay dirt.

For more information on Deadwood, write the Deadwood-Lead Area Chamber of Commerce, 735 Historic Main St., Deadwood, SD 57732. For South Dakota information, see see www.travelsd.com

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