Gold in the Black Hills

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

Couples looking to combine Wild West fun with outdoor activities will find it in the Black Hills of South Dakota...

The Sioux named them "Paha Sapa" or Black Hills. Today, this western area of South Dakota is known for its gold -- the kind found in the ground as well as the kind couples find in beautiful parks, historic attractions, and natural wonders.

The Black Hills are located in the western section of this state. Rising from the arid Badlands, the tree-covered mountains were once a welcome sight to early settlers who had ventured across harsh plains territory.

Today the "capital" of the Black Hills region is Rapid City, the second largest community in South Dakota. It's a town filled with motels to accommodate the many vacationers who head to these hills every year. The town is also dotted with shops selling "Black Hills jewelry" made from tri-color gold, alloys that produce gold, pink and green hues.

From your home base, head south to the community of Keystone, the home of the Black Hills' best known attraction: Mt. Rushmore National Memorial. No matter how many times you've seen those famous busts in films and photos, nothing can prepare you for the enormous scale of this project. Although visitors view the mountain from a distance, the busts of Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln and Roosevelt still seem to loom over the Visitors Center. A look at the dimensions and it's no wonder: the height of the figures from chin to forehead is 60 feet. The length of a nose is 20 feet; an eye is 11 feet across. And the mouths of these great giants? 18 feet wide each.

You'll find the best viewing (and the smallest crowds) in the morning. Save time during your visit for a look through the Visitors Center, with its continuous film on the project, and a visit to the sculptor's studio where you can learn more about John Gutzon de la Mothe Borglum. The son of Danish immigrants, Borglum started the project in 1927 -- when he was 60 years old.

To get an idea of what Mount Rushmore was like while under construction, make a stop at Crazy Horse, a mountain sculpture in progress. Crazy Horse Memorial is located 15 minutes away from Mt. Rushmore. Like the well-known national landmark, the Crazy Horse sculpture is also a mountain carving, but it is being done in the round. When completed, it will be larger than its presidential neighbor. Currently this is the only mountain carving in the world in progress, and it is the only one to have ever been led by a woman. Ruth Ziolkowski, whose husband Korczak began the project over 50 years ago, now directs the work along with her children. (Related Story)

Both Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse are just minutes from another Black Hills attraction: Custer State Park. Although you may have never visited this 73,000 acre park, chances are you'll recognize some of its rolling hills and open prairies. The nation's largest state park has been used in movies including How the West Was Won and Stagecoach.

Today the park is a popular stop for the two million travelers who view Mount Rushmore every year. It is a welcome retreat for vacationers looking for quiet campsites, miles of hiking and walking trails, scenic vistas, bountiful wildlife, and a chance to see the beauty of the Black Hills. The park is so large that you can feel like you're returning to the Wild West and imagine how the pioneers saw the land over a century ago. (Related Story)

In the gold rush era, one of the hottest spots was the town of Deadwood. In those days, Deadwood was a lawless place, filled with gunslingers, gamblers and gold seekers.

Today things are a little calmer in Deadwood, but the poker cards are still flying -- alongside blackjack and one-armed bandits. Visitors to Deadwood enjoy limited stakes gambling in an authentic Wild West atmosphere. This town has used its gambling profits to fund historic preservation projects. The streets of Deadwood that were once filled with madams and miners are today populated with couples vacationing in this town that relishes its Wild West roots.

Some of the West's most colorful characters found their way to this South Dakota frontier town. Deadwood was home to folks like Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok. Martha "Calamity Jane" Canary came to the town during the gold rush after performing in Wild West shows, acting as a pioneer scout, and working on a bull train. She claimed to be Wild Bill's sweetheart, reportedly a one-sided relationship that was totally a figment of Calamity Jane's imagination.

As quickly as it had all began, the gold rush dwindled when the major mines were staked. After the gold rush was over, Deadwood became, well, dead. Fires ravaged many buildings, and others fell into disrepair over the years.

In 1989 the city experienced its second gold rush, this one created when Deadwood became the first town other than Atlantic City to offer legalized gambling outside the state of Nevada. Overnight, real estate boomed as gaming houses sought old structures to renovate. The entire town joined the spirit and made plans to pave Main Street with brick, institute shuttle buses that recreated the old trolley lines, and install old-fashioned street lighting.

Today the streets are filled with action. Don't look for Vegas style glitz, big name shows, or adults-only fun. Deadwood has a family atmosphere with a Wild West flair. The casinos are small and friendly, and it's not surprising to see blackjack players giving each other helpful hints around the table. Gambling is limited, so there are no high rollers around these parts. (Related Story)

Even if you stay out of Deadwood's casinos, one thing's for certain. A visit to the Black Hills is a sure bet where the two of you, unlike many of the early prospectors, are going to hit gold.

For more information on South Dakota travel, see http://www.travelsd.com

copyright Paris Permenter and John Bigley