Duluth: Love in the Other City By the Bay

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

Looking for cool, foggy days, winding streets, a lively waterfront? If so, the first city that probably pops into mind is San Francisco.

But there's a low-cost alternative to the Bay Area. Located in the heart of the Midwest, Duluth, Minnesota shares many of San Francisco's delightful characteristics. In fact, it's often used as a "stand-in" for the California city in movies and commercials. Duluth doesn't share San Francisco's high prices or crowds, making it a great vacation getaway that won't break the budget.

During the winter months, Duluth is often covered with lake effect snows. Spring thaws, however, reveal a hilly city abloom with colorful flowers and exuberant residents eager to resume their outdoor pastimes. Sweater weather sometimes lingers into the summer months as cooling breezes sweep into Duluth from the lake. For couples fleeing summer's heat, Duluth is a cool oasis.

Start your visit downtown on the shores of Lake Superior, in surface area the world's largest freshwater body of water. Canal Park stretches along the downtown shoreline, where the water's edge is lined with pale birch driftwood and fist-sized rocks as smooth as marbles, and the sky is dotted with gregarious gulls. Take a stroll on the wide boardwalk or tour in a horse-drawn carriage and listen to the sounds of gulls, ships' horns, and lapping waves. Locals and tourists alike fill the park, jogging along the boardwalk, flying kites in the lake breezes, or sitting on park benches to gaze out at the waters that stretch beyond the horizon.

"People like to come to watch the big ships come in," explains Ann Parthe of the Duluth Convention and Visitors Bureau. "Most places in Minnesota have wilderness, but this port is unique."

To get an idea of the size of the largest freshwater harbor in the country, take a cruise aboard the Vista fleet. These three boats offer sightseeing and dinner cruises, departing from just beneath the Aerial Lift Bridge. Unlike conventional drawbridges, this bridge permits large ships to pass beneath by lifting the entire driving surface straight up by a series of weights and pulleys. In the harbor, you'll see ships from around the world loading coal, taconite and grain.

If the cruise piques your curiosity about fresh and salt water ships, take a tour of the William A. Irvin ore boat, formerly the flagship of United States Steel. The Irvin once carried up to 14,000 tons of iron ore from Duluth to ports along the Great Lakes. Today the 610-foot ship that was once called the Queen of the Lakes hosts guided tours of its engine room, cargo holds, galley, even the pilot house.

Just outside the Irvin, charter fishing boats wait to take you out on a half or full day's quest for lake trout, salmon or walleye pike. Over two dozen charter companies operate in Duluth.

The history of Duluth and Lake Superior are intertwined, starting with the area's use by Dakota and Ojibwa Indians centuries ago. You'll learn more about these early residents at The Depot, a beautifully restored 1892 train station. During its peak, this building was the the end of a long journey for 5,000 Swedish and Norwegian immigrants daily. Today the cavernous rooms are shared by several museums that explore the area's social and natural history. The Depot is also home to the Lake Superior Museum of Transportation, a collection of over 50 vintage steam, diesel and electric locomotives and rail cars, many of which can be boarded.

Spring and summer visitors can go even one step further with a ride aboard the North Shore Scenic Railroad, departing from The Depot. Sit back in the comfort of a passenger car and enjoy a 1-1/2 hour tour of Duluth or a day trip to the historic small town of Two Harbors for some shopping.

After a day of touring, you can try your luck at Duluth's Fond-Du-Luth Gaming Casino. Located on real estate owned by the Fon du lac Indian Reservation, the casino offers limited stakes gambling. Players are tempted with slot machines and "21" gaming tables that feature bingo balls instead of cards.

With its waterfront fun, historic attractions, and free museums, you may leave this San Francisco stand-in singing "I Left My Heart in Duluth." For more information, see http://www.visitduluth.com.