Life's a Beach: The Spas of St. Petersburg

by Sandra Gurvis, www.sgurvis.com

The St. Petersburg/Clearwater area may be touted for its 35 miles of pristine, powder- white beaches and Guinness Book of World Records runs of consecutive sunny days (768 from Feb. 9, 1967 to March, 17, 1969). But this cluster of 26 communities and 20-plus barrier islands facing the sparkling blue Gulf of Mexico and Tampa Bay also boasts an array of spas that outdistances many of its larger Florida cousins. Not only can you pamper yourself without breaking your wallet, but you can go home looking and feeling better, too. For example, although a "day of indulgence" at the Don CeSar costs $275, it encompasses a facial, massage, manicure, pedicure, hair styling, and lunch, with individual treatments being priced at much less.

I decided to jump in feet first when the therapist at our first stop, the Eclips Spa and Salon at the Belleview Biltmore Hotel, was looking for a volunteer to "get stoned." As a former child of the '60s who's written two books about that era, I just had to say "yes." This Rocky Mountain High was LaStone Therapy, which utilizes a mixture of mostly heated and a few chilled stones combined with aromatherapy, Reiki (a Buddhist method of placing hands on certain areas of the body for healing purposes) and massage. And it was at least as relaxing as that other stuff -- from what I vaguely recalled from over 20 years ago -- and legal as well. Never mind that 15 people (men and women) were watching me mellow out with great interest.

I had been at spas before, so the experience wasn't all that disconcerting. Many times, however, "spa virgins" feel that everyone around them, including the therapist, needs to be of the same sex. I, too, had always requested a female until I started getting several different types of treatments and only a male was available. I discovered the experience is all about touch, rather than who's doing the therapy. Being pummeled by either a man or woman can be uncomfortable, so when that occurs, I ask them to go a bit more gently. Most of the time they do, although you may encounter someone who's touch just doesn't correspond with your comfort zone. This is rare -- it only happened once during dozens of massages and treatments over the years -- and I must admit I felt terrific afterwards. But I want to enjoy it while I'm in the middle of it.

Which is why, when it came to the acupuncture demonstration, I quickly hopped off the table. Acupuncture has been around for centuries and according to the World Health Organization, effectively treats disorders ranging from ear, nose, and throat to gastrointestinal disruptions to
muscular, eye and nervous system malfunctions. In fact, many cultures opt for acupuncture over traditional Western medicine. And in the U.S. anyway, the needles are sterilized and thrown away immediately after use. But the key word here is opt -- if given the choice between acupuncture and an invasive procedure, I might indeed select the former. But this isn't surgery, it's relaxation, although the recipient of the treatment stated that the needles immediately relieved her migraine.

Another potentially unsettling aspect of the spa is that you may find yourself getting naked (or at least partially so) with a bunch of strangers -- the other guests and your therapist. My false modesty landed me in a bit of a pickle during a marine lipo reduction seaweed treatment, which is supposed to contour the body. The aesthetician smeared every part of my body that wasn't covered with underwear in mucky brown stuff, then wrapped me tightly. (Of course I immediately started to itch, knowing that scratching would require major maneuvering.) Fifteen minutes later, she released me to hop in the shower, which by now I was quite anxious to do. I forgot about my bra and panties, which got soaked and smeared with the substance and had to be washed and dried. After that, I took everything off. Like doctors, therapists are accustomed to seeing all different body types au naturel.

Our next visit was to the sister Eclips spa at the Renaissance Vinoy. Reopened in 1993, this hotel was built during that "other" boom era, the 1920s. Replete with hand-decorated tile in the lobby, stenciled pecky cypress beams, frescoed ceilings, and several elegant meeting and social spaces, it fell into disrepair during consecutive decades, sinking to a new low in the 1970s when a ballroom was used for volleyball matches. By the time it closed its doors in 1974, rooms sold for $7 a night.

But a $93 million facelift launched this grande dame into new heights of renovated splendor. Guests have the best of both worlds: enlarged rooms -- two fashioned out of every three and the addition of a 102-room guest tower, five restaurants, a state-of-the-art fitness center, golf, and tennis -- in a clubby, Art Deco-ish atmosphere. You can rejuvenate yourself by floating in the spa's hydrotherapy mineral tank, 1100 pounds of detoxifying sea salts. The lid can be left open or shut, making it a womb with a view, and there are nature videos to pass the time. I prefer a massage or facial, and a full menu of these are available as well.

The Eclips also offers makeovers : hair and makeup, hand and foot treatments. The latter two include manicures, pedicures, hand peels, skin lightening, paraffin, and more. I'd never had a pedicure; even my 22-year-old daughter Amy had raved about hers. Instead I opted for something I'd been considering for a while, a change in hair color from brown with blonde highlights to a deep auburn. I selected temporary Colorance, which lasts for 6-8 weeks. I'd learned from Amy's experience. While in college, she had impulsively gone blonde, hated it, and had to have the color stripped from her hair and re-dyed to her preferred red hue to the tune of a couple of hundred dollars, which of course we paid for. Fortunately I loved my new tint.

Spas have traditionally been retreats in a self-contained environment and Safety Harbor, our third stop, was no exception. Nestled in a quaint town of the same name, it's the area's oldest healing place. Native American shell mound builders inhabited the site almost 12,000 years ago and made use of its medicinal springs, imbuing them with mystical powers. The Spanish took over in the 1500s and promptly named it Espritu Santo Springs ("Springs of the Holy Sprit"). And by the turn of the last century, the different waters were purported to have curative powers for various ailments. Over the years buildings were added and improvements made so that the sprawling facility now has three pools, tennis and golf academies, and a 50,000 foot spa and exercise facility with 40 rooms for massage and treatment.

Two restaurants serve up gourmet low-cal and fat cuisine which you can follow for a total of about 1200 calories a day -- or not -- because the menu features a wide variety of foodstuffs. Dozens of exercise classes are offered, from the high-level cardio-kickboxing to "chair-obics," which focuses on beginners or those with physical limitations. Programs also encompass Yoga, T'ai Chi, and the newest flavor, Qi' Gong, Chinese exercise designed to cultivate physical and mental energy. I attempted the first two: the positions in the former were nearly impossible to master in an hour, while staying motionless to achieve graceful form in the latter was too much like trying to sit still during a religious service. Others who practice these disciplines regularly however, extol their benefits in firming, toning, and general health.

By now I was beginning to feel rubbed, soaked, and exfoliated to death, not a bad way to go, come to think of it. But having glimpsed a woman emerging from a sea salt glow, I was inspired to check out this treatment. And I was glad I did: after being covered in a yummy-feeling sea salt solution, I was washed off with warm water, then sprayed with a soothing, fragrant oil. Now I did have the smoothest skin in North America.

The Don CeSar, the "Pink Palace," was our final destination. Like the Vinoy, this sprawling pink-and-white confection was built during the Roaring '20s, losing much of its luster after WWII and eventually closing its doors.

But it was rescued from the wrecking ball by preservationists in the '70s and has been expanding and refurbishing ever since. It's a favorite for weddings: the day I was at the spa, two identical twin flower girls were having an updo, while the bride and the rest of the party indulged in various treatments. Where were these places when I got married 25 years ago?

Along with a foot refresher (more softening and exfoliation), half-hour massage, and relaxing wrap (with seaweed and botanical extracts and an application of something called "sea silk body milk"), I finally did get my pedicure. And it was everything Amy said it would be: not only did I see my cuticles for the first time in years but my toes were painted in a symmetrical manner (as opposed to my usual slapdash application).

But now, every part of me was so relaxed, it was amazing I even made it to the plane on time. Did it make it any easier to deal with the toddler who sat in front of us, kicking and screaming the entire flight? Spa treatments are great, but they can only go so far.

IF YOU GO:

Spa services:

Prices among the four hotels are fairly competitive. For example, a half-hour rubdown is $40-50, with a 50 minute massage being about $70. Most wraps and special treatments are in the $80-$110 prince range, while scrubs and facials are between $40-60 or a bit more if it's something specialized, like an anti-aging or hydrating facial, which can be around $80.

The best deal in town would to purchase one of the packages: for $100-275, these provide a wide array of treatments. Half-day, full-day, and couples options abound. However, expect to pay more for haircuts, highlighting, manicures and pedicures -- the area is a vacation spot after all. And tipping is usually 10 percent of the service provided.

Hotels and food:

Belleview Biltmore, 25 Belleview Blvd., Clearwater, 800/237-8947, www.belleviewbiltmore.com. Opened in 1897, this rambling resort has all the right stuff, including golf course, restaurants and spa/fitness center.

Renaissance Vinoy. 501 Fifth Ave, St. Petersburg, 727/894-1000. Package deals -- a romantic breakfast for two, golf and tennis getaways and others -- are available.

Safety Harbor Resort and Spa, 105 N. Bayshore Dr., Safety Harbor, 800/237-8772,www.safetyharborspa.com.

Don CeSar Beach Resort and Spa, 3400 Gulf Boulevard, St. Pete Beach, 800/282-1116, www.doncesar.com.

The hotels have excellent restaurants, with healthy as well as indulgent choices. However if you must stray, the area offers both well-known chain and locally popular eateries, including The Salt Rock Grill (19325 Gulf Blvd, Indian Shores, 727/593-7625, www.saltrockgrill.com), Redwoods (247 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, 727/896-5118), and The Blue Heron (3285 Tampa Rd. Palm Harbor, 727/789-5176), among many others.

For more information: Contact the St. Petersburg/Clearwater Convention &
Visitors Bureau, 800/822-6461.