Bear Track Inn: Romantic Alaska Hideaway

Photos and article by Eleanor S. Morris

GUSTAVUS, Alaska - Bear Track Inn, a gleaming log lodge set on 40 acres ofwooded wilderness, is a dream come true for innkeeper Mike Olney, and he says," just as my dream has come true, I hope this is your dream vacation."

To begin with, you have to get here by ferry, which is an adventure in itself. The Gustavus ferry cruises daily between Juneau and small Gustavus, gateway to Glacier Bay National Park. In case you need to be convinced that you're really away from it all, the town of Gustavus consists of a of cross roads with a service station and minimart on one of the four corners.

You're met on the dock and spirited away through the woods to this magnificent building built of approximately 275 logs, all numbered and fit together by Mike's father John, who designed and built the inn.

"We offer a prize to the first person who can figure out how many boards are in the lobby ceiling," Mike says. Lounging on the long suede sofas and gazing at the ceiling is very relaxing, even if you can't count all the boards.

The 15,000-square-foot inn is constructed of hand crafted spruce logs, with two large outdoor decks, 14 guest rooms with baths, a full service dining room, a gift shop and a meeting room. Everything is on a large scale, in keeping with the view. Bears, moose, wolves, bald eagles and other birds, visit the inn. But, don't get too close, and don't feed them. "Stay at least 100 yards from a bear," says Mike. "They may seem big and clumsy, but let me tell you from personal experience they can run faster than we can!"

But it's exciting seeing them from the dining room window while you're chowing down on exotic caribou medallions or fresh king salmon steak. Dungeness crab; Halibut Ritz (rolled in crunchy ritz topping and baked, served with orange buerre blanc cheese and roasted red pepper coulis); stuffed pork loin, with dried cranberries, walnuts, mushrooms, garlic and baked with fresh herbs; marinated breast of chicken, stuffed with sauteed bell peppers, red onions, garlic and cream cheese, also served with red pepper coulis, are also on the menu. This is wilderness?

The first thing you'll notice on the front porch is the pile of rubber boots in all sizes. Alaska is pretty rainy, but nobody except visitors pays any attention if the skies are dripping. ("We can tell the tourists by their umbrellas," the natives say.) Mike offered to take us for a hike after dinner, to maybe see some bears on the shore of the nearby inlet, and those boots sure came in handy. (No bears that time, but we did see some tracks.)

The inn offers a multitude of activities. Fresh and saltwater fishing, guided and self kayaking, glacier tours, whale watching, flight-seeing, wildlife tours, hiking, biking tours, golf, helicopter tours, photography opportunities, horseshoes, volleyball, badminton, croquet...and what about just lying around and counting the boards in the ceiling? Box lunches are provided for all the activities.

Although you feel like you're way out in the wilderness, there are of course telephones, and a computer in the lobby with email access, various word processing programs, even some games.

The dogs Tasha and Bailey are not supposed to be inside the inn. They may tell you differently, Mike says, but pay no attention. "There is also a bear or two that may use the same trick, but they're not allowed in either!"

Glacier Bay's Bear Track Inn, 255 Rink Creek Rd., Gustavus, AK 99826; 907/697-3019; fax: 907/697-2284; email Beartrac@aol.com; web page: http://www.Beartrackinn.com.