Ensenada: Border Getaway

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

The verdant hills which fringe the city of Ensenada are what first attracts the eye of many visitors. Whether they arrive by plane, cruise ship, bus, or car, they can't miss the hills which hint at the fertile countryside surrounding this busy town.

For many years, Ensenada lie in the shadow of Tijuana, its wild and sometimes wicked neighbor some 60 miles to the north. When San Diego visitors wanted a taste of Old Mexico, they headed across the border for a day of shopping, bargaining, and festivity, then returned to home territory for the night. And when beachlovers considered a seaside stop on Mexico's western shore, they pictured Acapulco or Puerto Vallarta.

But today this city of 150,000 has become a destination of its own, and rightly so. Ensenada is finally being recognized as a city which offers good shopping, natural beauty, and a friendly atmosphere. Six cruise ships now make Ensenada a port of call.

The cruise terminal is the first look at the city that many tourists enjoy. Cruise ships dock alongside fishing vessels in the deep blue waters of Todos Santos (All Saints) Bay, with an excellent view of the city across the way. Cruise passengers pass through the small terminal, perhaps greeted by a few friendly silver jewelry salesman, then board a van for the trip downtown.

The journey to the center of the city is fairly short, but tourists will find several noteworthy sites along the way. As the van pulls past the shipyards, have a look at the painted walls which gaily portray children's impressions of the huge ships.

You may want to make a stop at the Tourist and Convention Bureau, located at Floresta 1395, just across the street from a large La Quinta Hotel. Here you'll find brochures of city attractions and free maps. Most of the convention bureau personnel also speak English, and they'll be glad to help you plan you visit to make the most of your stay in Ensenada. (Another helpful stop is the Office of Tourism, at Lopez Mateos 13-B.)

It's a short walk from the Tourist and Convention Bureau to the market. In this open-air market, you'll find everything from Mexican dresses to Guatemalan imports. Ensenada is a duty-free port, making shopping one of the most popular activities in town.

Silver jewelry is popular in the market stalls and in nearby stores. You'll also find silver jewelry sold throughout the city by men carrying open briefcases displaying necklaces, bangles, earrings, and rings. When shopping for silver, look for the "925" stamp impressed in the jewelry to identify the piece as sterling silver rather than silver plating. Prices are good for silver jewelry, ranging from $3 for silver bangles to $10 for large dangle earrings.

Textiles are prevalent throughout the market, also. Serapes and blankets sell for $5-15, and Mexican dresses for about $20, depending on the detail and amount of embroidery. As in the United States, you'll find that Guatemalan goods are somewhat pricey, but they are imports here in Mexico as well, so don't expect to see much difference in price.

Feel free to bargain in the market stalls and with street vendors for the "best price," but don't expect much haggling in the shops, especially jewelry stores.

When you're ready to take a break from shopping, you'll find that there's plenty of other activities to enjoy in Ensenada, something which makes this seaside city different from the border towns it was once compared to. Ensenada is home to the Bodegas de Santo Tomas, a historic winery open for tours (and tasting) by the public. If your tastes run more toward beer, try Hussong's. As this infamous cantina nears its 100th birthday, it draws more visitors than ever. Cruise passengers and college students alike pack into this busy bar, so popular it now bottles its own beer, Hussong's Cerveza.

For history lovers, there are three Dominican missions located to the north of the city: El Descanso (1814) , San Miguel del la Frontera (1787) , and Nuewstra Secora del Guadalupe del Norte (1834). Stop by the Office of Tourism for directions to these missions. And remember, if you are driving in Mexico be sure to have Mexican insurance. American insurance is invalid.

While you're at the Office of Tourism, ask for directions to some of the cave paintings in the area. Baja California has the largest collection of cave paintings in the world, and these range in age from 500 to 1000 years old.

Nature lovers will also find that Ensenada is a special destination. During the winter months, take a whale-watching expedition for a look at the gray whales and their young. Many of the boats take along inflatable craft so that you can float out and touch the gentle whales as they come to the surface.

One of the most spectacular sights in Baja is located 13 miles south of Ensenada. La Bufadora (the blow hole) is one of a handful of naturally occuring blowholes in the world. Day and night as the Pacific waters come in on the rocky shore, water shoots up through La Bufadora like a cool geyser, spraying its onlookers with a salty shower. You'll find several guided tours to La Bufadora or you can drive. Just before you reach Maneadero, the checkpoint for continuing further into Baja, take the Punta Banda exit. The drive is scenic, filled with vistas of lush mountains and olive groves, and colorful stands selling canned peppers and olives.

Near La Bufadora stands a small market which sells everything from fireworks to jewelry. Pick up a sack of freshly made churros, long strips of hot pastry sprinkled with sugar that will make you turn around and buy a second sack for the ride back.

Swimming is prohibited at La Bufadora due to the very dangerous currents, but many other excellent beaches are open for swimming and diving. Estero Beach, which is home to a museum, trailer park, hotel, and shops, has swimming and jet skis for rent. Three Sisters is the most popular diving spot in the area, and you'll find outfitters there to rent gear.

Ensenada is said to be the home of some of the best fishing around, and indeed it bills itself as the "Yellowtail Capital of the World." Deep sea charters take visitors out on cruises ranging from half a day to a week for a chance at albacore, barracuda, and bonito.

For More Information: For more on travel in Mexico, call 800-44-MEXICO.