Setting Sail for Romance

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

By the light of a full moon, couples danced on deck. Music was the only sound, along with an occasional flap of the sail. Our destination: romance.

"There is a Greek saying that there are three most beautiful things: dancing women, galloping horses, and a ship with sails hoisted," explained Captain Marek Marzec, standing on the deck of the elegant Star Clipper. "We have them all but the horses."

That night we were to sail from the port of Civitavecchia, just outside Rome, and began our journey south along the coast of Italy. It promised to be a trip of a lifetime, a journey to glorious ports and tiny isles. Soon the sails rose to the majestic sound of "The Conquest of Paradise." We were underway.

By the light of a full moon, couples danced on deck. Music was the only sound, along with an occasional flap of the sail. There was no motor noise to interrupt the scene; our vessel, like those that traveled the Italian coast for centuries, was powered by the winds. We were aboard the Star Clipper, one of the world's largest and most luxurious sailing ships. Like a private yacht, the ship sailed the Mediterranean, carrying 170 lucky passengers to ports whose names range with the promise of romance: Sorrento, Pompeii, Sicily, the Aeolian Islands.

Throughout the first night and the next day, we were at sea. Lovers lounged in the restaurant, retired to their cabins, or floated in one of the two small pools. We traced the Italian coastline south, anchoring about mid-calf down the boot. The cliffs of the Amalfi coast outlined our route to Agropoli, a small community perched along the cliffs. The modern streets, lined with tiny gelato shops and trattorias, led the way to the real attraction of the region: Paestum. This UNESCO site was once a sprawling Greek city, contained inside a massive stone wall. Today three temples and countless ruins remain of the site.

The Greek influence was also the highlight of the next day's stop: Taormina, Sicily. We set our sights for the island's Greek temple perched high on a hill above Taormina. It lies in the shadow of Mt. Etna, still steaming from recent eruptions.

Volcanoes turned out to be the theme of the next several days of port stops. We set sail for the Aeolian Islands, seven small volcanic isles that rise from the Mediterranean like rocky cones. We landed on Lipari, an island dotted with shiny black obsidian tossed from the earth's hot interior. From Lipari, we could see the volcanic summits of the nearby islands of Vulcano and Stromboli, smoking like a chimney pot.

For many travelers, the real highlight of the volcanic tour was Pompeii. Docking in Sorrento, we soon headed toward the ancient ruins at the base of Mt. Vesuvius. For hours, we walked the cobblestone streets, rutted by ancient chariot wheels. Stone walls outlined former homes, bakeries, and even brothels. Here erotic paintings on the brothel walls once provided a menu for customers.

The quiet streets of Pompeii were a stark contrast to the bustling streets of Sorrento, however. Lovers clung to Vespa cycles, zipping around the ancient alleyways. Streetside cafes were filled with couples enjoying an afternoon glass of wine. Others shared pistachio gelato at small stands.

From the cliffside streets of Sorrento, we could see the tall masts of the Star Clipper just offshore. That evening, the sails would rise again and we would be sailing off to another Italian port for a few more days of pure romance.

If You Go:

The Star Clipper's sister ships include the Royal Clipper, the world's largest sailing ship, the Star Flyer. Check with the Star Clipper company for schedules which include Caribbean, Mediterranean, and Asian sailings.

For more information:

• www.starclippers.com

Copyright Paris Permenter and John Bigley