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Small Sailing in the Virgin Islands by Sandra Gurvis
The only schooner based out of St. Thomas offers a romantic getaway to secluded coves, bays, and lagoons The harbor at Charlotte Amalie resembled those TV ads that run every winter. The endless blue sky meets the cerulean sea - and then a well-known credit card flashes across the screen. But the balmy breezes, lush surrounding greenery, and bustling Caribbean funkiness at King's Wharf in St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI) were blissfully real. And our home for the next four days, the 160-foot, three-masted yacht Arabella, sat like a petite but exquisite jewel amid the mammoth, suddenly clunky-looking cruise ships. The only schooner based out of St. Thomas, the Arabella's approval by the U.S. Coast Guard allows her exclusive access to secluded coves, bays, and lagoons in the American, British, and Spanish Virgin Islands. Distracted by the scenery and the change of climate, I almost fell into the water as I slid into the tender that would ferry us back and forth to our various destinations. Watchful crew members prevented me from this embarrassment, along with several others in our group. Going from points A to B on a constantly shifting sea is quite different than on terra firma and requires a reasonable sense of balance and timing. I finally became an expert maneuverer on the last day of the trip.
We were assigned staterooms
and when I opened the door, I thought I'd been given the key to a storage
closet. OK, it wasn't that bad, but "small" is being generous.
Bunk beds, a bathroom where you bump into yourself if you turn around
too quickly and a couple of drawers constituted accommodations for two
people. Thank goodness it was only me and the luggage, although the ship
offers storage space for the latter. No wonder I had been told to pack
lightly. But that's an almost impossible directive for someone who likes
to choose from a minimum of two outfits per evening, each with a matching
pair of shoes. Although in reality, most of the day is spent in bathing
suits, shorts and T-shirts. Dinners at the various ports of call are generally
casual. We set sail for St. John, one of my favorite places on Earth (I've not been to the third USVI, St. Croix). Two thirds of this laid-back, pristine sanctuary consists of the Virgin Islands National Park, 9,500 hilly acres with an underwater reserve. Plantation ruins with old slave quarters and villages; untouched, pure beaches; and an ecosystem of hundreds of plants and birds are among its myriad attractions. We ferried to Cruz Bay, a slapdash hub with boutiques, bars, and restaurants. Expect to pay more for retail here, as most items are imported. However, it is possible to find a bargain or two, particularly in shops located on side streets. We got completely turned around while searching for our dining destination, La Tapa. With its hilly zig-zag of roads and alleys, diminutive Cruz Bay can be confusing. However, everyone speaks English and will point you towards a nearby business or corner (street signs and numbers seem irrelevant here). Eventually we found the eatery which specializes in eclectic cuisine made with Caribbean flair and fresh, local ingredients. The next morning, I rose early, in preparation for our pending arrival at the British Virgin Islands (BVI). There are about 36, although only 16 are inhabited. Propelled by friendly trade winds, the Arabella sails across down the smooth-flowing Sir Frances Drake Channel, which runs about 20 miles from St. John to Virgin Gorda, BVI. The area is dotted with dozens of untouched, tiny islands and pearly beaches and even though you're not going very far very fast, it hardly matters. Everywhere you turn is unrefined beauty. We had to clear Customs, so they collected our passports. Everything is done on Caribbean time, which means whenever. So I spent a hectic few hours watching the world sail by, putting on sun block and chatting up my fellow passengers. The Arabella has 22 staterooms, so you get to know people quickly. There are only nine staff aboard and they're amazingly versatile, doing everything from serving food to unleashing the anchor to finding misplaced hats and sunglasses. The thought of learning the "ABCs of navigating a vessel" as promised in the literature sounded suspiciously like the expenditure of brain cells, so I decided to put it off for manana. Besides it was time for lunch - baked sundried tomato boule with seafood, salad, Italian peppers, and spicy cole slaw, with a dessert of red velvet and chocolate bon bons. The food aboard the Arabella is as heavenly as the scenery. Later that afternoon, the ship pulled up to Norman Island, the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's book TREASURE ISLAND. We tendered towards the Caves, a geological phenomenon involving recesses in sheer rocks and some of the best snorkeling around. Although purported to hide the stashes of several infamous pirates, the only riches I found were an abundance of fabulous fish. You need to be a strong swimmer and experienced snorkeler however, as the water is deep, with lots of people and small craft bobbing about.
Some of our group headed over to the William Thorton ("Willy T") floating pirate party boat for additional libations. But it was a quiet night. All hands remained on deck -- occasionally someone will jump into the water just for the heck of it. They also kept their clothes on. Along with lively music mix, the Willy T is notorious for its spontaneous, alcohol-inspired displays of body parts normally kept under wraps. It was the third day already, and I had yet to rock, er, steer the boat. I was a little leery of sailing, having run into our garage with my car several times, once with the door down (my then-young children were fighting). After being reassured by the crew member that it was completely safe and noting that the rest of the passengers seemed unperturbed, I decided to try. Navigating the Arabella was surprisingly easy and fun. You can change the course of the ship with the slightest turn of the wheel. I also learned how to tack, bringing the vessel around so the wind is on the opposite side. I admitted to being nervous when other boats came within sight. "They're farther than you think, and they see you in plenty of time," said the crew member, who showed me how to steer out of harm's way just in case. Every guest aboard the Arabella gets a chance at the helm if they so desire. Next on the itinerary were the Baths in Virgin Gorda. The BVI's most famous landmark, they consist of a cluster of enormous stones jumbled atop each other during prehistoric times. They've been weathered into spectacular shapes, with pools of water between the stones and "cathedrals" which completely enclose visitors. Slaves from Africa were cleansed here on their way to North America, a moment of relief during a horrific voyage. Discovered by Columbus in 1493, the Virgin Islands were a center for the transport of human cargo as well as sugar during the 18th and 19th centuries. Today the Baths are a favorite stop for boats and small cruise ships. There's even a T-shirt and souvenir stand at the entrance. A much quieter and more unspoiled area is nearby Devil's Bay. We were practically alone on the beach and in the water. We also explored the equally cool (both visually and physically) and secluded rock formations in the adjacent cove. Those with cojones jumped off the top of one of the larger clusters - notably, takers were males under the age of 18. Later that afternoon, we docked near a place called The Bitter End, which sounded about right since our wonderful seafaring interlude was drawing to a close. Or so I thought until the news on the satellite TV warned of an impending nor'easter. High winds and several feet of snow were predicted for the East Coast on Sunday and Monday, when the group was to return. I was connecting through Boston back to Columbus, Ohio. But hey, we were at this fabulous yacht club/resort with endless snorkeling, sailing, and hiking. And there was still one more dinner, a festive Caribbean buffet with all varieties of meat, fish, fresh vegetables and fruit and pastries for dessert. So we knuckled under and enjoyed. Before our return to St. Thomas
on Saturday, the agenda called for a stop at Jost Van Dyke. This offbeat
outpost of only four square miles has a population of about 200, many
of whom are supposedly related to each other. Highlights include Foxy's,
an open-air restaurant serving West Indian food. Hammocks are available
for those who need a before or after-meal nap. Nearby White Bay boasts
the Soggy Dollar bar, accessible by swimming to shore, hence the name.
However, after sampling a Painkiller, fruit and coconut juice generously
laced with dark rum, you may have to be tendered back to the boat. Hence re-entry be too painful, our arrival back at Charlotte Amalie was sweetened by an overnighter at the Wyndham Sugar Bay Hotel. We said sad good-byes to the crew members and promised to meet up with them again soon. And did, that evening at Duffy's Sugar Shack, a hopping disco a few miles from where we were staying. Besides, Mother Nature had other plans. Panic over the pending snowstorm had reached fever pitch on the East Coast, and my flight was canceled on Monday. So I had to endure a extra day at the Wyndham, suffering through twenty-four more hours of snorkeling, beach-sitting, and drinking blue margaritas. Many of my companions were worse off, having to remain there even until Thursday. Poor souls. Now if I could only figure out how to get stranded aboard the Arabella. IF YOU GO FLIGHTS: Airfare to the St. Thomas can be expensive, from several hundred dollars to over $1,000 during peak season. An option would be to drive to Miami, cutting the cost in about half. ITINERARIES: January through May: Six-night/seven day Virgin Island voyages with Saturday departures/arrivals. Along with the above-mentioned stops, guests can also explore Cooper Island, Salt Island, Tortola, Guano Island, Peter Island, Colebra and Vieques. Based on the weather patterns, itineraries vary each week. Passports are necessary for access to foreign territories. You may want to bring anti-seasickness medicine although the seas are generally smooth during these times. The Arabella also hosts three, five, and seven-day cruises in New England from June through October, docking at Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, and around Cape Cod. FOR MORE INFORMATION: Classic Cruises of Newport, Christies Landing, Newport RI 02840, (800)395-1343, http://www.atlanticstars.com PRE/POST-CRUISE STOPOVER: All-inclusive amenities consist of guest rooms with private balconies,
meals including theme buffets and alcoholic beverages, secluded beach,
unlimited water sports, children's activities, fitness center, tennis,
and more.For more information, contact the Wyndham Sugar Bay Beach Club
and Resort, 6500 Estate Smith Bay, St. Thomas USVI, 800 (996) 3426, http://www.wyndham.com. Sandra Gurvis is the author
of several nonfiction books, including the
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Lovetripper.com Romantic Travel Guide
The
interior of the ship matched its outside promise. The salon on the main
deck bristled with gleaming chrome, wood burnished to reflective shine,
and cozy tables and chairs. In this closer, more intimate atmosphere,
you can sit wherever you want and eat within a loosely arranged time period.
None of this 8 pm dinner at table 157, thank you very much. The crew will
fix you a snack if you're hungry, although no one has ever starved on
any cruise.
There were, however,
ample places to hang my clothes in the form of hooks and pull-out racks.
And each stateroom has a satellite TV. We stayed outside most of the time,
but it was reassuring to know I could always watch "Judge Judy"
and "Magnum" reruns. And that's how I found out about the blizzard.
But I'm getting ahead of myself.
After some exhausting
cocktails and hors d'oeuvres (cheese board, mushrooms wrapped in pastry)
on the ship, we repaired to Billy Bones Beach Bar, also located on Norman
Island. If the tasty BBQ ribs won't mess you up, the rum punch certainly
will. After one sip, I opted for the smooth, milder-tasting margarita.
Nevertheless I was soon three sheets to the wind, just like the Arabella.
