Romantic Retreat: Sandals St. Lucia Golf Resort and Spa

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

We heard St. Lucia before we saw it. Arriving on an evening flight, we stepped off the plane and instantly received a warm welcome from the humid night winds. In the distance, we could hear the piping song of the tree frogs, welcoming us to their tropical home.

The next morning, sunlight revealed St. Lucia's exotic beauty. Jagged peaks cloaked in velvety plants. Honey-colored beaches shaded by towering palms. And everywhere, everywhere, colorful blooms and greenery that promised romantic walks in a true garden of Eden.

It's fitting that this idyllic island is home to Sandals St. Lucia Golf Resort and Spa, a couples-only all-inclusive that sprawls across 155 fertile acres on the north end of the island. Here we awoke with Caribbean sunshine streaming in the glass doors of our one bedroom suite. The light, like a gentle wake-up call, caressed the split-level room, spilling over the sitting area and edging its way up to the mahogany four-poster bed before giving us a courteous nudge.

Sensuous wake-up calls are just part of the pampering that we received at this resort that aims to be one of the Caribbean's most glamorous. It's a tough competition, even against other members of the Sandals family in Jamaica, Antigua, and the Bahamas. Thanks to a new addition of cliffside suites and villas, many with their own plunge pools that look out to a placid sea, Sandals St. Lucia is right there in the running.

We quickly found that this property strives to pamper, offering 24-hour room service for some rooms at the sprawling resort. On our first morning, we seriously considered the decadent pleasures of breakfast in bed, of hot coffee and freshly-squeezed orange juice with right-off-the-tree mangos, but decided that would wait for another morning. It was time to explore.

Although some all-inclusive resorts offer few dining options, Sandals St. Lucia has a full menu of choices, even for breakfast. We considered the a la carte service at Le Pitons, the elegant indoor eatery, but the open air Pavilion won out. Led by the aroma of fresh Caribbean coffee, we found our way to the white columned pavilion, tucked right at poolside. A feast of local fruits, the bounty of the fertile island, awaited, not to mention made-to-order omelettes and French toast.

Like all meals at Sandals--from gourmet fare accompanied by extensive wine lists to beach bar snacks--our breakfast was part of the all-inclusive one-price-pays-all concept. The Sandals "Ultra inclusive" package includes round trip airport transfers, taxes, all meals and snacks, all drinks, nightly entertainment, tips, windsurfing, sailing, scuba diving, water-skiing, golf, snorkeling, and more. It's a package that has been voted by travel agents as the "world's leading all-inclusive company" for six years in a row.

It was a satisfying feeling, as we sipped out after breakfast coffee, to contemplate our possibilities. Would we rather hang out at the pool and let the day develop at its own lazy pace? Or maybe this would be the day to finally learn to sail a sunfish or even take a windsurfing lesson. After all, the watersports at Sandals are included and there was a nice breeze that day. Hmmm...

For couples with matrimony on their minds, the options du jour might even include a wedding or, in Sandals terms, a WeddingMoon. During our stay, we would witness many couples exchanging vows in this tropical paradise. The WeddingMoon is now part of the all-inclusive offerings, complimentary for couples who stay five nights or longer (at least until further notice).

For many couples, pampering relaxation comes in the form of spa treatments. Although it wasn't part of the all-inclusive offerings, we decided to splurge and treat ourselves to a couples massage. For an hour, we shared a marble treatment room, our two tables just far enough apart to allow the pair of masseuses to work their magic.

One afternoon we opted to catch the free shuttle to Sandals Halcyon. This quieter cousin is part of the "Stay at One, Play at Two" policy of Sandals resorts in St. Lucia; guests can enjoy watersports and activities or just pop over for a meal at the other property any time they like.

Compared to its glitzy cousin, Sandals Halcyon was a demure resort, with rooms nestled in one- and two-story buildings, most outlined in trailing vines and fragrant tropical plants. Beautiful grounds offer couples plenty of quiet, shady nooks for time together. We snorkeled off the quiet stretch of beach then, from the comfort of a two-person hammock, discussed our plans for the next day to venture beyond the boundaries of Sandals resorts and explore the south end of St. Lucia on a guided tour.

The next morning we followed the recently-improved highway, tracing the jagged coastline until we finally saw the symbols of St. Lucia: the Pitons, rugged mountains that climb straight out of the sea.

In this southern region, we found plenty of diversion, from a sultry rain forest to the Sulphur Spring volcano, where the smell of brimstone hung heavy in the air. In contrast, the nearby Diamond Waterfalls and Gardens bloomed with tropical fragrance. A flower-lined trail wound to waterfalls, a cascade that leaves a spray of "diamond" twinkles suspended in the air. Nearby awaited steam mineral baths built among ruins of the first baths commissioned by French King Louis XIV for use by his troops.

We returned to Sandals St. Lucia in time to watch a fiery sunset. A warm day promised to be a sultry night, with dancing and live music yet to come. For now, though, we were content to think of our long list of dining options and the joy, at least for a few days, of being able to leave our pocketbooks unused. It was, in every sense, a real vacation.