Jamaica: A Taste of the Island

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley
Excerpted from Jamaica: A Taste of the Island

"Do you see the ackee?"

We were strolling the banks of the Black River on Jamaica's south coast when we heard the call of a man from a nearby car. He gestured up at an ordinary looking tree we were near. Between its green leaves peeked small red fruit, bursting open to reveal large black seeds like eyes looking out at us."That's ackee. We make our national dish, ackee and saltfish, from that fruit. You must try some while you are here!"

The enthusiasm this stranger showed for Jamaican food is typical on that island, a veritable produce section of fruits, vegetables, roots, and spices. The locals' enthusiasm is contagious. Visit Jamaica and you will get caught up in the taste of the island: the burn of the peppery jerk, the slickness of cold coconut jelly, the richness of a truly world-class cup of coffee.

In a decade of travel to Jamaica, we've enjoyed meals that span the dining spectrum: jerk from roadside stands, patties from small town bakeries, shrimp from side-of-the-road vendors, home cooking from some of the island's best chefs, and gourmet meals that could hold their own in New York or Paris.

Jamaican restaurants, aware of those without the need to explore, can offer a white bread menu for those not looking for a real taste of island life. You can find Caribbean dishes devoid of the slightest taste of spice or burgers just like those back home. These are aimed at the vacationer who wants to transplant home onto a sandy beach, never leaving the confines of his resort and never acknowledging the vibrant culture that lies around him.

But you're not like that. You want a taste of the real Jamaica, a flavor that grabs you by your taste buds and makes you realize that "yes, I have gone somewhere different." You see dining as part of the adventure of travel, an experience comparable to scuba diving the reefs of Montego Bay or hiking the rugged heights of the Blue Mountains. It's a chance to learn more about the history of this island where people from around the globe have shaped a distinctive culture. To see how a nation has taken its natural bounty and transformed it into a culinary event just as it has transformed its natural beauties into a travel destination.

Dining in Jamaica is more than nutrition: it's part of the whole vacation experience. Breakfast can start with a taste of one of the world's best coffees, grown right on the island. Lunch might mean a chance to get out and meet island residents who prepare a savory roadside dish in a manner perfected by the Caribbean's first inhabitants centuries ago. And dinner is far more than just the day's final meal, it's the evening's entertainment.

Jamaica's motto is "Out of Many, One People" and it's a saying that could equally be applied to the island's food. Residents have come from around the globe, bringing with them the cooking techniques, flavors, spices, and recipes of their homelands and blending them with the bountiful harvest of this tropical island. The result is some of the most flavorful cuisine in the Caribbean.

The diversity and rich history of Jamaica is especially notable because of its size. Spanning 4,400 square miles (about the size of Connecticut), this island was first the home of the Arawak Indians, who named it Xaymaca or "land of wood and water." Those early residents came to this mountainous island around 650 A.D. and lived peacefully here on the land and the sea's bounty.

After the Spanish arrived in 1509, the Arawaks soon died out, killed or dying from disease and overwork. With the native workforce gone, the Spanish began importing African slaves who brought with them many cooking techniques, ones that live on to this day.

Many Spanish Jews also arrived on the island during Spanish rule, contributing dishes such as escoveitch fish, a vinegary concoction that's found on many homestyle menus.

In 1655, the Spanish lost Jamaica to England. The English turned much of the land into sugar plantations, creating many fortunes for the English residents in the process. "As wealthy as a West Indian planter" came to be a common phrase in England, a hint at the fortunes sugar brought.

During that century, English influences developed the Jamaican pattie, a turnover filled with spicy meat that's a favorite lunch snack with locals. It's the equivalent of an island hamburger.

A century later, Chinese and East Indian influences made their way to Jamaica, when indentured laborers who replaced slaves after emancipation also brought their own culinary talents. Today curried dishes grace nearly every Jamaican menu, using local meats such as goat, chicken, and seafood.

Jamaican Curried Pork

1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon curry powder
2 medium bananas
1 pound pork tenderloin, cubed
1/4 cup pineapple juice
1/4 cup minced onion
1/2 cup flaked coconut

Melt butter in a large skillet, stir in curry powder and cook until foamy. Cut bananas into 1/2-inch rounds and sauté in curry butter until golden brown. Remove from skillet with slotted spoon, set aside. Add pork cubes to skillet and sauté until golden brown. Salt to taste. Stir in pineapple juice and minced onion. Cover and simmer 10 minutes, until pork is tender. Stir in coconut and bananas and toss lightly. Serve with hot cooked rice, if desired.

Serves four.

For more information on Jamaica, check out the official Jamaica Tourist Board website, http://www.visitjamaica.com

Copyright Paris Permenter & John Bigley