Cayman Brac: Romantic Hideaway Built for Two

by Paris Permenter & John Bigley

If Grand Cayman is the flashy big brother of the Cayman Islands, swelled with pride about its lavish condominiums, full-service resorts, international dining, and top-notch diving, and Little Cayman is the family's youngest sibling, favored for its petite size and almost shy demeanor, then Cayman Brac is the middle child.

This middle sibling, however, is far from overlooked. Cayman Brac has its own special qualities, assets that include world-class diving along undersea walls, hiking in the most rugged terrain found in the Cayman Islands, caves that tempt exploration, birding, and much more.

The island is named for the "brac," Gaelic for bluff, which soars up from the sea 140 feet on the island's east end. It's the most distinct feature of this 12-mile long, one mile wide island located 89 miles east-northeast of Grand Cayman and just five miles from Little Cayman.

With a population of only 1,300 residents, Cayman Brac is closer in pace to Little Cayman than its big brother, Grand Cayman. Residents, or Brackers, are known for their personable nature and welcome vacationers to their sunny isle.

The most romantic site on the island is also its most recognized: the Brac, the sheer bluff that is visited by hikers and non-hikers alike. This area is a favorite for birdwatching, one of the most popular activities on Cayman Brac. The little-traveled dirt road that leads to the Brac also passes the 180-acre Parrot Reserve, home to endangered Cayman Brac Parrot. Only 400 of the birds remain in the wild on this island. Bring some good walking shoes for quiet walks through the forest to catch a glimpse at one of these colorful birds.

Among Cayman Brac's most unique features are its many caves. The Bluff is pocked with caves that frame beautiful seaside views. Several of the 18 caves on Cayman Brac have been explored and five are frequently visited by vacationers. Rebecca's Cave is marked with signs. The best known of the island's caves, sadly this one is named for a young child who died here during the Great Hurricane of 1932. Skull Cave, Peter's Cave, Bat Cave, and Great Cave present other caving challenges, some requiring steep climbs.

Without a doubt, diving is one of the island's prime attractions. Over 50 excellent dive sites tempt all levels of divers. The latest attraction is a Russian frigate deliberately sunk in September 1996. Renamed the M/V Captain Keith Tibbbets, this 330-foot freighter was built for use by the Cuban navy. It lies approximately 200 yards offshore northwest of Cayman Brac. The bow rests in about 90 feet of water; the stern is just 40 feet below the surface. The sinking of the vessel was recorded by Jean-Michel Cousteau Productions in a documentary film "Destroyer at Peace."

Bonefishing is another top draw for many Cayman Brac vacationers. Guides lead anglers on half- and full-day excursions to seek bonefish in the shallows; deep sea fishing is another popular option and groups of up to four can book a charter for a chance at a trophy catch.

The history of this island can be traced at the Cayman Brac Museum.This charming collection features the early history of this island with displays that recall the heritage of this seafaring island. Located in the former post office, the museum houses ship building tools, photos, and even a replica of a turtle schooner.

Where to Stay: Small resorts, condominiums, and an efficiency apartment complex make up the accommodations offerings. Cayman Brac's largest resort is the 59-room Divi Tiara Beach Resort . A favorite with scuba divers, the resort includes a dive shop, underwater photo center, and more. Another popular property with divers is the 40-room Brac Reef Beach Resort

Located off Channel Bay on the island's southeast shore, this resort includes a pool, Jacuzzi, restaurant, bar, dive shop, snorkeling, fishing, tennis, underwater photo center and gift shop. The 16-room Brac Caribbean Beach Village at Stake Bay offers a dive shop, snorkeling, and tennis.

The Brac Caribbean Beach Village condominium hotel offers two-bedroom units. Scuba services including underwater photography are available through Brac Aquatics. Vacationers looking for housekeeping units find kitchen and laundry facilities at Brac Haven Villas, six one bedroom units located a short distance from the beach. La Esperanza provides a two-bedroom apartment or a three-bedroom house. Located a short distance from the sea on the island's north side near The Bight, this property also includes a restaurant/bar.

Cayman Brac is now home to its first bed and breakfast inn, Walton's Mango Manor. Located within walking distance of the Cayman Brac Museum and the community of Stake Bay , the bed and breakfast is housed in a historic Caymanian house. Today it's a five-room guest house; each room includes a private bath.

Dining: Restaurants on Cayman Brac tend to be casual and feature local catches. On the West End, choices include Aunt Sha's Kitchen, Edd's Place, and the G&M Diner. At Stake Bay, La Esperanza Restaurant and Bar specializes in local seafood. Other choices include the air-conditioned Coral Garden Restaurant at Brac Reef Beach Resort, which serves up gourmet specialties and local fare in a casual setting.

For more on Cayman Brac, check out the Cayman Islands Tourist Board website, http://www.caymanislands.ky.